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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone sell kits for only lowering the rear? All I've found on IPD, VIVA, etc are full kits for all four corners. I like the front end sitting stock, I just don't like the rear. Suggestions?
 

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Re: Lowering ONLY The Rear (Husker Z)

Split up a set, it's been done. <p>Or just bite the bullet and buy 4 springs and only install 2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Lowering ONLY The Rear (Needsdecaf)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Needsdecaf</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Split up a set, it's been done. <p>Or just bite the bullet and buy 4 springs and only install 2. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>Thought about that, surely I could sell the fronts to someone. I'm just afraid the front would be WAY too low, it seems pretty damn low the way it is and I don't even run the body kit.
 

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Re: Lowering ONLY The Rear (Husker Z)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Husker Z</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone sell kits for only lowering the rear? All I've found on IPD, VIVA, etc are full kits for all four corners. I like the front end sitting stock, I just don't like the rear. Suggestions? </TD></TR></TABLE><p>makes no sense to do just the rear. <br>Keep in mind that a drop does not only enhance the visuals but also the performance. <br>You don't want to have diffrent spring settings in the front and rear. <p>By the way, the stock front height is not even that low...just learn how to take inclines at an angle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: Lowering ONLY The Rear (tomedkaz)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>tomedkaz</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>makes no sense to do just the rear. <br>Keep in mind that a drop does not only enhance the visuals but also the performance. <br>You don't want to have diffrent spring settings in the front and rear. <p>By the way, the stock front height is not even that low...just learn how to take inclines at an angle.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Good point, I've just always been a chicken on lowering as I don't want to look like the 16 year old kid down the block bouncing up and down the street in his Honda. I know the ride won't be exactly the same either, but I'd like to keep it where it doesn't rattle my fillings out. <p>My thoughts would be to do the Eibach's and then probably the spacers from VIVA. Again, I just want a subtle lowering job, not something that looks like I'm heading to the nearest Fast and Furious casting call. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Lowering ONLY The Rear (Husker Z)

I say go all four corners. Eibachs or TMEs will give you the mildest drop.<br>TMEs are not progressive like the Eibachs. Some have said the Eibachs bottom out to easily because of the progressiveness.<p>Both brands drop all four corners the same unlike Evolves which drop the rear more.<p>I am getting a set of TMEs real soon, actually I can't wait...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: (tomedkaz)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>tomedkaz</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I went with TME for two reasons: <p>2. do not bottom out as Eibach</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Elaborate please. Is this common, how often does it happen, what kind of bump does it take?
 

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Re: (Husker Z)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Husker Z</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>Elaborate please. Is this common, how often does it happen, what kind of bump does it take?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>well, I did a lot of research on this forum before I pulled the trigger on TME and from what I was able to gather Eibach springs are almost too soft, which make the car bottom out. And you know that when you bottom out you are destroying your expensive shocks. <p>Also, with the potholes we have here in NYC I needed something better. <br>
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: (tomedkaz)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>tomedkaz</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>well, I did a lot of research on this forum before I pulled the trigger on TME and from what I was able to gather Eibach springs are almost too soft, which make the car bottom out. And you know that when you bottom out you are destroying your expensive shocks. <p>Also, with the potholes we have here in NYC I needed something better. <br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Thanks, I appreciate the suggestion. Right now I'm kind of leaning towards the Evolve ones, I like the fact that the front doesn't lower quite as much and the rear is a bit more.<p>I live in an area where the roads aren't horrible (most of them anyway) but I don't want to feel like I'm bouncing around the city either trying to save my car.
 

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Re: (Husker Z)

Likewise I thought the front was low enough but the rear had rakish stance which I wanted to even out. Found someone on the forum who wanted to sell just a set of rear Evolve springs. Now the car looks more balanced and the stiffer rear springs provide more oversteer which was what I wanted for auto-x and road racing. Just make sure you have the dealer recalibrate the SUM. Before recal the rear end felt way stiff, over damped and very skitish over bumps. Did the re-cal last weekend and the suspension feels much more composed.<p>I also had a set of Eibachs on my old S60 2.5T and never really had a problem with bottoming out. They are progressive so if you want a constant spring rate you may want to go with TME or Evolve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: (volvofla)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>volvofla</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Likewise I thought the front was low enough but the rear had rakish stance which I wanted to even out. Found someone on the forum who wanted to sell just a set of rear Evolve springs. Now the car looks more balanced and the stiffer rear springs provide more oversteer which was what I wanted for auto-x and road racing. Just make sure you have the dealer recalibrate the SUM. Before recal the rear end felt way stiff, over damped and very skitish over bumps. Did the re-cal last weekend and the suspension feels much more composed.<p>I also had a set of Eibachs on my old S60 2.5T and never really had a problem with bottoming out. They are progressive so if you want a constant spring rate you may want to go with TME or Evolve.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Do you happen to have some photos of your new setup? <p>Also, what's involved in recalibrating the SUM? Do the dealers frown upon this, will they mess with my warranty?
 

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Re: (Husker Z)

I'm out of town but I should be able to post some pics this weekend. Its my understanding that the 4C suspension works in part on ride height. Since the car is lowered the system thinks that there is a large weight increase and correspondingly increases the damping. Recalibrating the SUM involves downloading the latest software calibration in the VIDA system. I opted for a software upgrade on the 4C which put me back $125.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: (volvofla)

That would be great, if you get around to it, thanks. So, after install I should let them settle, get the SUM calibrated and then get an alignment in that order? Thanks again.
 

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Re: (Husker Z)

Here is a pic of an R with Evolves (thanks Kirb)<p> <IMG SRC="http://www.pbase.com/jh2007/image/111537557/large.jpg" BORDER="0"> <p><br>Oh one more:<p> <IMG SRC="http://www.pbase.com/jh2007/image/111537476/large.jpg" BORDER="0"> <p><br>By the way, I may have an extra set of TMEs coming my way soon (brand spanking new of course). If you are interested let me know.
 

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Re: (850arrrsaylikepirate)

Easiest way to lower the rear...<p><IMG SRC="http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/traptntoga/cinderblock.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>Put some junk in yo' trunk!
 

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Re: (Rues R)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Rues R</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Easiest way to lower the rear...<p><IMG SRC="http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/traptntoga/cinderblock.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>Put some junk in yo' trunk!</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Haha! That's why I have two subs sitting on the rear axle and my R has slowly lowered from the weight, giving the impression that I lowered it. I'm even all the way around <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/cool.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (Rues R)

Not only does adding bricks to your rear lower the car but it also lowers your gas mileage.<p>If one is adding bricks to their rear I opt for using doughnuts.
 

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Re: (850arrrsaylikepirate)

I'm gonna throw this out there. I might be interested. How much would you want for the TME springs?
 
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