SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
837 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone post up a pic or describe what a bad lower control arm looks like on our car. Ive seen where the rubber is gone and it moves freely. I dont want it to get to that point.

Basically my large bushing on the front have visible tears in the rubber and the arm is not in the center ofr the bushing anymore. its not completely gone and it stills holds it in place but I think its gving me some unwanted front end roll and bounce. for 95 at ipd I can get a whole new arm and put it in myself but I wanted to get some input before doing it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,372 Posts
Basically my large bushing on the front have visible tears in the rubber and the arm is not in the center of the bushing anymore.
Answered your own question. Change them out right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,480 Posts
Wow, I just had my car in for an alignment and they found that mine are bad. By just looking at them it was hard to tell they were bad. While driving, tap the brakes a little sharply. If you hear a thud then they are likely bad. The mechanic actually showed me this on the alignment rack. They backed the car to the end and drove (slowly) forward and hit the brakes. Watching the control arms, you could see the sloppy motion.

With 110K miles, I figure I'll change the control arms as they include the bushings and the ball joint too. How hard a job is this? Any tips?
Thanks
Stan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,372 Posts
Not bad at all. You'll need a scissor type ball joint puller (I bought mine on eBay). I guess you could just pickle fork it since you are replacing it anyhow. The other tip is to loosen the mounts for the power steering hose on the right side. This will allow you good clean access to the bolt for proper torquing. By the book, all bolts & nuts should be replaced. Remember the car needs to be at ride height when you tighten the bolts. I used ramps on the front & jack stands in the rear.

Ball joint in wheel spindle 70 Nm
Control arm front in the sub-frame rear mounting 60Nm+90° Degrees
Control arm front in the sub-frame front mounting 175 Nm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,480 Posts
Thanks for the info.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,480 Posts
While I'm changing the lower control arms I figure I'll change the end links since they are original. Are the IPD HD end links worth while or should I stick with OEM?

Also, any idea who makes the control arms that IPD sells?

Thanks
Stan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,360 Posts
I have the iPd links and think they were a worthy investment. Definitely tightens up the front end a bit over stock. Some people have complained about the longevity of them, or lack thereof. I haven't had any issues with mine and have had them on for a while.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,372 Posts
If your sway bar links made it 110k I would go back with factory. I loved the IPDs on my 850 & V70, they far outlasted the original. For whatever reason the S40 links have given me trouble. They don't develop any play but give off a "creaking" noise. It's as if the joint was actually too tight & it binds. Definitely temperature related, they are perfectly quiet all Winter & then come back to bug me the first Summer day over 80 degrees.
No idea who makes the aftermarket IPD arms. If you look on Rock Auto you will see several makers. Who knows, as far as we know they all come from the same Chinese plant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,480 Posts
I got my parts waiting to do the job. I went with Febi lower control arms and Meyle HD end links.
Stan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,480 Posts
I replaced the lower control arms and end links today. The LCA's were def bad with cracks in the rubber and much more play than the new ones. The Meyle HD end links are a bit beefier than the stock. The shaft is 1mm thicker (10mm vs 9mm) and the ball/sockets are much bigger.

The passenger side was a pain with the PS lines right there. Even after unbolting the bracket, the PS lines made getting a wrench on the front LCS mounting bolt difficult, especially the torque wrench. It was impossible to get the impact gun on that one.

Man what a difference! The steering is so responsive and handles great. After I put the Koni's on, it always felt like something was wrong and I thought that perhaps they were a bad match for the springs. The LCA's took care of it, tightened things up and I have much less suspension noise. I guess you get used to the feel as the components gradually degrade and you don't realize how bad it has gotten until you replace stuff. It is hard to say how much difference the Meyle HD end links make since I replaced then with the LCAs but it all works good.
Stan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,695 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,372 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,695 Posts
Cost, I mean for the price of 1 LCA from FCP I could get both fronts from this manu. Figured I would ask see if there is something I am missing. That bit of savings will allow me to get them and only have to get an alignment once rather than two as I would be waiting another 2 weeks to do the LCA's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
I'd recommend replacing your Tie Rod Ends as well. I just ordered a pair from Tasca. Probably should have had this done when the LCAs were done. My steering is still a little loose, and more than likely the accelerated wear was due to replacing my LCAs, which then put a lot more strain on the weaker parts...the tie rods.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,695 Posts
I'd recommend replacing your Tie Rod Ends as well. I just ordered a pair from Tasca. Probably should have had this done when the LCAs were done. My steering is still a little loose, and more than likely the accelerated wear was due to replacing my LCAs, which then put a lot more strain on the weaker parts...the tie rods.
Aside from loose steering what other symptoms showed? Shakes? Cost for the ones you ordered? My goal is to tighten everything back up so it rides back like new but doing so as inexpensively as possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
I bought OEM tie rods, which are about $50 a piece. You can get Febi ones for $30/each I think. My symptoms are slight wheel travel on both sides, and when turning even at low speeds, I have to rotate the steering wheel a little more. The LCA replacement helped with keeping the car from massive wondering, but the tie rods keep the turning ratio in spec. When they go bad, you'll notice you have to turn the wheel more and the wheels themselves will wander slightly. I think this explains my toe issue with my fronts wanting to lean right. It's baffled my shop and even their alignment shop. However, I think they overlooked the tie rods.

I might even have an inner tie rod issue, but we'll find out once I get the outer tie rods replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,695 Posts
Might add those to next weeks order for LCA's. So much work to get done on her... clearly its gonna be a rental vehicle week after all these parts come in. Going to update the thread about my bolt as that goes along.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
I would be most interested in your installation and experiences!
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top