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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The drivers side lower ball joint came off with no problem. I had to get a bit aggressive with a Dremel and a pry bar for the passenger side. Can someone tell me what size/thread the lower ball joint nut is for a '68 142? I bought some 1/2 - 20 but its a bit small, assuming 9/16 - 18 but wanted to confirm without taking the other one off again.

Also, does anyone have some tips to keep the ball joint from spinning while tightening? I tried using a pry bar against the caliper bracket that connects the two ball joints but couldn't keep it from spinning.
 

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If you use a jack to press the lower A arm / ball joint up into the knuckle, the friction of the ball joint spindle inside the knuckle should be enough to keep the spindle from spinning as you tighten the nut. Lift the jack enough and you will have all the weight of the front corner of the car pressing the knuckle onto the ball joint spindle. That should definitely stop it from spinning. If you have mangled the threads on the ball joint with the Dremel then the nut may be jamming on the threads causing the ball joint to spin. That would require a replacement ball joint. Lube the threads with some anti seize to help the nut spin on.

I don't know the nut size; but, make sure that the replacement is a nylock nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If you use a jack to press the lower A arm / ball joint up into the knuckle, the friction of the ball joint spindle inside the knuckle should be enough to keep the spindle from spinning as you tighten the nut. Lift the jack enough and you will have all the weight of the front corner of the car pressing the knuckle onto the ball joint spindle. That should definitely stop it from spinning. If you have mangled the threads on the ball joint with the Dremel then the nut may be jamming on the threads causing the ball joint to spin. That would require a replacement ball joint. Lube the threads with some anti seize to help the nut spin on.

I don't know the nut size; but, make sure that the replacement is a nylock nut.
Cool, will try. If not I’m going to notch the top so I can get a flathead screwdriver in there
 

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Also make sure that the inside surface of the knuckle and the ball joint tapered surfaces are clean, dry and oil free. a piece of grit, sand, metal filings will not allow the tapered surfaces to seat and create the required friction, Spray the surfaces with brake cleaner to get the tapered surfaces clean dry and oil free.

Also the Anti seize on the threads is great for the next time you do any work, I used it on all the nuts and bolts that I replaced, and as 142Guys notes makes assembly a little easier

I use the Permatex which is available at ANY auto parts or hardware store

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...4PX2TuKNMP2UQ1S7lGRoCnnAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 

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9/16-18 -Confirmed 10 min ago

IMG_8550.jpg
 
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