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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Low Pressure, Oil Pan, Rear Main Seal (Update)

Hi Gang,<p>This is my first post to your forum and I am hoping you can help me. While it references a 2002 XC70 this sub forum struck me as the most active and thus most likely to offer some help.<p>I purchased the XC approx. two years ago with 55k miles on it. Subsequently, it came to my attention that despite its very clean outer appearance my indy believes that it did not receive frequent enough oil changes. From research I know these cars are very susceptible to sludge and believe my example is suffering from it. A year ago I had all the upper seals replaced and now the rear main seal is leaking. The vehicle currently has 77k miles.<p><B>Summary:</B><p>a) Rear Main Seal is leaking<br>b) Low Pressure Oil light started flickering last week (it’s been hot here)<br>c) Performed oil change yesterday, filter was nasty, light went away for awhile, but flickered today in traffic<p><B>Question:</B><p>a) Thinking of trying an application of Auto-RX<br>b) Going to drop oil pan and perform Oil Sump/Ring clean out.<br>c) In which order would you do this. It seems logical that I should first apply the Auto RX and then clean it out.<p><br><I>Any and all feedback is appreciated. FYI, I am attempting a business start-up and money is extremely tight. I really just need to buy some time with this car.</I><p> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>TIA,<br>Landis<p><i>Modified by Landis at 10:24 AM 9-16-2009</i><BR><BR>
<i>Modified by Landis at 10:30 AM 9-16-2009</i>
 

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i havent used Auto-RX but I have used SeaFoam which is the same type of thing.<p>With SeaFoam i would: <br>change the oil<br>add it to the crank case (google for how much)<br>drain the oil, change the filter<br>drop the pan<p>There is *some* info on this around this board - the "google search" should be able to help you out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: (Bender)

Thank you. Yes, I have read quite a bit about it here. It seems that Auto-RX needs to remain in the vehicle for 1,000 miles. What concerns me is that if it indeed flushes some of the sludge that it will only serve to compound the issue in the oil pan. Conversely, to clean out the oil pan and then run it leads me to worry that I will just fill it back up again with sludge. Ho hum. <p>Also, I have read that Sea Foam is a bit too harsh for this situation as I don't want to clog the gallies with sludge.
 

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yes sea foam is tricky and that wouldnt surprise me - if i used sea foam i would only run it for a few miles, def not 1000<p>do you have the time to drop the pan before and after?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: (Bender)

To clarify the Auto-Rx requires the 1,000 mile duration not Sea Foam.<p>I am sure I can find the time to drop the pan twice and that may be the end all be all. <p>Not to derail the topic, but is there a vendor here that can provide the sump ring kit and gasket seal? I realize IPD is a trusted source, but their prices always seem a tad high for items. I have been on BMW forums for years and there are typically endorsed vendors.<p><br>
 

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I have used Auto-RX in a few cars now and have yet to have any of the Seafoam-esque horror stories.<p>If you're dead set on cleaning the oil pan, I'd say do it first. If you run the Auto-RX first, it might not have anywhere to drain the cleaned sludge to and might stay stuck up. If you clean the pan, then the sludge in the engine can sink into the pan. At least, that's the way I'm going to imagine it will work... <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/rolleyes.gif" BORDER="0"><p>On the other hand, you could Auto-RX first and see if you even need to drop the pan.<p>For parts, it's hard to go wrong with Darrell Waltrip Honda Volvo. Also, a lot of people say Boston Volvo is good, but I have never used them. With FCP, you might get some inferior 3rd party products at a savings not worth saving for the kind of labor you're planning to do...<p><br>BTW, hope you don't find <A HREF="http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=123790" TARGET="_blank">anything like this</A> in your car! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/eek.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: (StarmanDXE)

Actually, I would love the avoid the oil pan entirely! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"> As you cited though I am concerned about intensifying the issue.<p>Man, that gunkified e46 is everywhere. I can only hope that my issue bears no resemblance.<p>Probably will go with IPD, but I appreciate any/all input.
 

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Re: (Landis)

Well, I don't really have any credentials in suggesting this (as I have not actually ever seen one of these engines opened up), but maybe you could do a <i>very</i> short stint of Seafoamed oil to clean out then pan followed by a run of Auto-RX to clean out the rest of the engine??? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>Don't think you could go wrong with IPD. I do like how they offer the Volvo OEM part alongside the aftermarket most of the time <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: (StarmanDXE)

Well, I hate to leave a thread hanging so here is the latest. I spoke this evening with a Volvo Tech/Pro who advised against dropping the oil pan on this year/model citing that the sump rings are not an issue typically. He suggested switching to:<p>a) Mobil 1 (0-w-20 or 5-w-30) immediately<br>b) Running a cycle of Auto-RX for 200 miles<br>c) Switching to a true synthetic (Anzoil of Penzoil) in the weight listed above<p>That is the plan at present. Wish me luck!<br>
 

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Re: (jstro)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>jstro</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IIRC Auto RX needs to be used with dino oil not synth</TD></TR></TABLE><br><A HREF="http://www.auto-rx.com/pages/basic-application.html" TARGET="_blank">Their website says:</A><p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Auto-Rx® works best with conventional (non-synthetic) motor oil. If you must use a synthetic motor oil, we recommend using a Group III oil to avoid competing chemistries. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>And, also <A HREF="http://www.auto-rx.com/pages/oil-grouping.html" TARGET="_blank">according to their website</A>, it seems "Group III" oil is a highly refined non-synthetic (which they say is sometimes marketed as "semi-synthetic"). I've no clue what might fit in this...<p>Their <A HREF="http://www.auto-rx.com/pages/heavy_sludge_app.html" TARGET="_blank">sludge treatment</A> is also interesting. Add @ssloads of AutoRX and change your filter twice per oil change.<p>
 

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once you auto RX make sure check and change your filters often I view once a week . <p>sludge moves fast and kills fast <p>I would ditch the car before it nukes the turbo and motor. <p><IMG SRC="http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/R410a/C70T5/C70doneD003.jpg" BORDER="0"><br><IMG SRC="http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/R410a/C70T5/C70doneD008.jpg" BORDER="0"><br>due to sludged motor . <br>Dont ebay your car either you get a chance of getting pwned <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>Ask me how I know how <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: (Chilled Man)

Per Starman's comment I was told that Mobile1 is not a true synth. (highly refined) thus can be combined with Auto-RX.<p>Trust me. I am considering dumping the car (to a dealer mind you - not passing on my problems to a private buyer), but I need to get the light on the dash to stop flickering before the trade appraisal. On the other hand the gent I spoke with seems to think it can still be saved. I hope so as the timing is awful. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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You could just pull the guages out and then pull out the oil lamp bulb. <p>Personally, if I were you, I would change the oil to synthetic, and change it often. In the case of the low oil warning, it could be the sending unit that is defunct.<p>Also, I'm scratching my head on this, but if you are having a low oil warning light come on when the oil heats up, why would your mechanic want to switch to 5w-30 or 0w-20? Why not just drain the oil out and piss in there? I never run less than 10W-30 in my car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: (Paysts)

I don't really know what to do at this point. (the car has received religious 3k mile intervals for the past 20k miles) Everyone seems to have a different remedy. I will say this: <B>I spoke with the engineer behind Auto-RX this evening and he states that Mobile1 is not an option for his product</B> so it appears that I will utilize conventional oil with the application. As for your recomendation(s) I had a gent allegedly test the sending unit and assured me it is working (I of course too am now scratching my head). <p>Has anyone heard of this $12 part going south? (Sh*t I wish I simply replaced it and may yet! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/sly.gif" BORDER="0"> )<p>As for the weight of the oil I also thought similarly with respect to 10W-30 which is what I am currently running as of this week in a non-synthetic formula. The problem persists and the engine gets louder as time goes on with the warning light ablaze (or so it seems). This tech I spoke to assures me that I need a thinner oil for this set up. <p>Christ, hasn't anyone encountered something like this? <p>Besides 'Paysts' what are you all running for oil?<p><br>The car has been flawless up to this point. I suppose I will double check the diagnosis on the sending unit tomorrow.<p>Buggers.<BR><BR>
<i>Modified by Landis at 4:22 PM 8-19-2009</i>
 

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I did and the engine killed itself with in 20 miles of buying the car .
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Re: (Chilled Man)

You did what? <IMG SRC="http://www.mye28.com/images/smiles/dunno.gif" BORDER="0"><p>(Sending unit failure or entire engine going south)<BR><BR>
<i>Modified by Landis at 5:02 PM 8-19-2009</i>
 

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As of now just he turbo killed itself. <p>Not sure whats all wrong with the motor yet have to pull it apart and see whats up
 

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Ouch. I don't know if these cars have an oil screen or not, but if it does, maybe it was clogged up.
 
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