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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Turbo MomCar the wife's '97 GLT 855

Well, the wife's '97 GLT 855 (LPT) has been showing some weirdness with the cooling system holding pressure for an extended period of time.


Put the exhaust gas tester on it this weekend...




It's a very minor leak at the moment. It's not blowing white smoke, or overheating, but it will occasionally push some coolant past the cap.

This engine has 275K miles on it, so instead of just a HG replace, I'm going to go through the '96 turbo engine I have on the stand in the garage and hopefully give that a refresh.

Seeing as her car is an M4.4 system, we'll just "upgrade" it to a '98 T5 or R spec. That should keep her happy.

She loves her Turbo MomCar™, and isn't going to give it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
After doing the exhaust gas test, I replaced the thermostat. Just to make sure there wasn't anything ugly floating around, or clogged. Installed a 90* stat with the proper vent orifice in it and buttoned it all back up. Car runs slightly cooler and hasn't been puking coolant out of the expansion tank the past few days. Still holding pressure though, but that was expected.

Been messing with the teardown of the replacement engine the past couple of days.







Hoping to have the head fully off and the bottom end bearings looked at by the weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
One of the things that's going to happen along with the engine rebuild is a new exhaust. Not sure if I want to build one, or just buy one. I have a couple 3" downpipes, so I have a starting point. It's just running a stock sytem with the cat removed (by a previous owner). Anyone have any experience with the "Estonian" exhaust kits on ebay? HERE

Also, I'm trying to debate between the 15G that is on this engine, or a 16T. It needs a new exhaust manifold, but the turbo itself seems to be in decent shape, at first glance. I know the differences are minor between the two, when it comes down to it, but not sure what would be a better match for a "driver" on the '98 M4.4 engine management.

Trying to keep a handle on "scope creep", but a replacement steering rack and R sways are on the "for sure" list of things that will be happening while the car is down for the engine swap.
 

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One of the things that's going to happen along with the engine rebuild is a new exhaust. Not sure if I want to build one, or just buy one. I have a couple 3" downpipes, so I have a starting point. It's just running a stock sytem with the cat removed (by a previous owner). Anyone have any experience with the "Estonian" exhaust kits on ebay? HERE

Also, I'm trying to debate between the 15G that is on this engine, or a 16T. It needs a new exhaust manifold, but the turbo itself seems to be in decent shape, at first glance. I know the differences are minor between the two, when it comes down to it, but not sure what would be a better match for a "driver" on the '98 M4.4 engine management.

Trying to keep a handle on "scope creep", but a replacement steering rack and R sways are on the "for sure" list of things that will be happening while the car is down for the engine swap.
16t over the 15g, no tune needed though, I maxed out my maf with a 16t, it’s a good starter turbo to experience power with these 5 cylinders. I have 2 16ts if you would be interested, can come in straight or angled flange.

I don’t have any experience with that exhaust or know anyone who does, I like my obx pretty good, it does drone though at highway speeds
 

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Discussion Starter #7
16t over the 15g, no tune needed though, I maxed out my maf with a 16t, it’s a good starter turbo to experience power with these 5 cylinders. I have 2 16ts if you would be interested, can come in straight or angled flange.

I don’t have any experience with that exhaust or know anyone who does, I like my obx pretty good, it does drone though at highway speeds
Well, this is the wife's car, so I'm not sure we need to go too far. I was just wondering if the powerband of either was better matched for engine management for drivability. What did the 16T come stock on?
I have a line on a 16T/manifold, but might have an interest in another, if we use this one on her car. (The plan is to rebuild the engine from her car for my 240 ;) )
 

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Well, this is the wife's car, so I'm not sure we need to go too far. I was just wondering if the powerband of either was better matched for engine management for drivability. What did the 16T come stock on?
I have a line on a 16T/manifold, but might have an interest in another, if we use this one on her car. (The plan is to rebuild the engine from her car for my 240 ;) )
The power band and spool is better than the 15g. I could tell a difference when I changed it. It’s not a all out powerful turbo but it does pack a little punch with a tune
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The power band and spool is better than the 15g. I could tell a difference when I changed it. It’s not a all out powerful turbo but it does pack a little punch with a tune
Thanks for the input. No tune will be done on this car, just the installation of a 98 T5 (HPT) or R ECU, in place of the current LPT ECU.

I'm assuming the angled-flange flows better than the flat?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Head is off.


Lots of carbon build-up.



Didn't notice much of a ridge at the top of the cylinders, and no odd scoring or other marks in the cylinder walls.
 

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One of the things that's going to happen along with the engine rebuild is a new exhaust. Not sure if I want to build one, or just buy one. I have a couple 3" downpipes, so I have a starting point. It's just running a stock sytem with the cat removed (by a previous owner). Anyone have any experience with the "Estonian" exhaust kits on ebay? HERE

Also, I'm trying to debate between the 15G that is on this engine, or a 16T. It needs a new exhaust manifold, but the turbo itself seems to be in decent shape, at first glance. I know the differences are minor between the two, when it comes down to it, but not sure what would be a better match for a "driver" on the '98 M4.4 engine management.

Trying to keep a handle on "scope creep", but a replacement steering rack and R sways are on the "for sure" list of things that will be happening while the car is down for the engine swap.
I would suggest the jetex/mototech/est/simmons touring exhaust. Its very well made, can be had for about $500 and is quiet compared to literally every other system. Above 2200 rpm its nearly silent.
 

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Nice, can you see good cross hatching on the cylinder walls?

I would pull the valves, put them on the wire wheel to clean off the carbon, install OEM valve stem seals, then lap the valves. I wouldn't try to clean any carbon off the piston heads, that's just me.

Carbon is probably from running cheap low octane fuel. How many miles do you think it on that engine?

I pulled my 15G with 290,000+ miles and installed a 16T with about 135,000 on it. Didn't notice a big change because I'm not running a tune. Spools up a little faster and hold boost good but I credit that to low miles.
 

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I pulled my 15G with 290,000+ miles and installed a 16T with about 135,000 on it. Didn't notice a big change because I'm not running a tune. Spools up a little faster and hold boost good but I credit that to low miles.
did you also change the exhaust housing/dp at that point?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I would suggest the jetex/mototech/est/simmons touring exhaust. Its very well made, can be had for about $500 and is quiet compared to literally every other system. Above 2200 rpm its nearly silent.
I've looked at those. They look to be about $600 these days. The oval tip one would look pretty good on this.



Nice, can you see good cross hatching on the cylinder walls?

I would pull the valves, put them on the wire wheel to clean off the carbon, install OEM valve stem seals, then lap the valves. I wouldn't try to clean any carbon off the piston heads, that's just me.

Carbon is probably from running cheap low octane fuel. How many miles do you think it on that engine?

I pulled my 15G with 290,000+ miles and installed a 16T with about 135,000 on it. Didn't notice a big change because I'm not running a tune. Spools up a little faster and hold boost good but I credit that to low miles.
That's kind of what I was planning on doing. Do a quick check of the valve guides as I'm pulling it apart, just to be sure.

I really have no idea on the mileage. It was under 170K on the odometer, if I recall, but you never know, seeing as who knows if the odometer was even working. The crosshatching is there, but it'll get a good honing before reassembly.
Hopefully the bottom end bearings all look good. I may know that by this weekend.
 

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did you also change the exhaust housing/dp at that point?
Yes, installed a straight flange and 3" down pipe.

Now it has a R exhaust manifold on it since I had to replace the head 8/17 (burnt a valve at 362,600). Was holding boost real strong a week or so ago before the intake tube blew off. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Well, I'm not going to have my cylinder ridge tool until tomorrow, but I did go ahead and pop the rod bearing caps loose to check things out.

All of the rod bearings looked good. Just standard wear.

All except #2


It spun


The crank looks OK, though.


Maybe a short moment of oil starvation? Fluke?
Like I said, mystery engine.

Going to make sure the pick-up and pan are spotless. Any kits/checks on rebuilding/testing the oil pump? I guess there is some stuff on specs in the engine service manual, but can internals be replaced/shimmed?
 

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There is an updated oil pickup tube:

 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Application? Dealer-only part?

EDIT- Looks like a 2000-2007 part. Just longer mounting bolts, and it's a direct replacement?
 

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Application? Dealer-only part?

EDIT- Looks like a 2000-2007 part. Just longer mounting bolts, and it's a direct replacement?
Yup
 
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