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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,<p>I'm in the market for a new daily driver, and started considering a S60 R. I dont know much about Volvo's, but I do know that the R is a great car. I have a few questions I hope you all can answer... I'm familiar with the rules of Message Boards, so trust me when I tell you that I have already used the search feature <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0"><p>Anyways, the car I am looking at is an automatic 2004 S60R with about 38k miles, and the dealer asking price is $13000. I know that the manual is much faster, but since this will be my daily driver (and I sit in a good deal of traffic) I'd rather not break my left knee/leg/ankle/foot/etc. <p>1. This value seems a bit low for the car, especially given the mileage. Bluebook puts it at around $15000 - assuming a clean Carfax, what do you think?<br>2. When test driving the car, is there anything specific that I should look out for (noises, leaks, etc.)? Any specific problems that I should be aware of with that model year?<br>3. Hows the reliablilty/maintenance? I'll be driving approximately 20k miles a year. Excluding regular maintenance (oil changes, brakes, etc.), are there any large problems that this model year faces? Again, I'm not familiar with Volvos, so any indication of their reliability would be helpful. <br>4. At what mileage does the timing belt have to be changed? How about the suspension - anything specific? Any issues with oil consumption, auto tranny, engine internals, bad turbo, drive shaft/differentials, etc.? <br>5. Can the S60R be serviced by a regular mechanic, or does it absolutely require dealer maintenance?<p>I've owned several turbo cars before, and frankly purchasing another (especially used) turbocharged car scares me a bit.<p>Thanks for any help you can provide!
 

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Re: Looking to purchase a S60R - a few questions (neovb)

Welcome. <p>Try to use the search and google search features above. This topic has been covered quite extensively. I know you say you have used it, but search here doesn't work well. Use the google or click on archived posts on the regular search. Get creative with your search terms. <p>Before you get a negative reaction from other members, a few short things:<p>* This car has a LOT of fobiles. Especially the '04's. I would try for an '05 or up if you can swing it, and an '06 and up if you want an auto. The transmission is different (6 speed auto vs. 5) and there is no torque limiting on the '06's autos. There is severe torque limiting on the '04 an d'05 autos. <p>* The car is not cheap to maintain. I would not own this car expecting to put 20k a year on without a CPO or VIP warranty to 100k. Just don't do it. I'm speaking from experience. <p>* Timing belt is at 105k. <p>* Car can be serviced at a regular mechanic (or by your self for a surprising number of things) but some other items require a Volvo shop for the computer support (VIDA). <p>* Most dealers don't know about the R specific problems / items and are terrible on this front. <p>Items to search for:<p>rain squeal<br>angle gear<br>slave cylinder<p>Also, go to the FAQ thread at the top. There are some articles in there which will help. <p>Good luck.
 

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Re: Looking to purchase a S60R - a few questions (neovb)

I bought my 04 with 35k on it, now at 90k miles. Timing belt is rated for 105k miles. <p>My experience so far:<p>Rear wheel bearings: ~$550<br>Turbo control Valve: under $100<br>Top motor mount: ~$50<br>Lower tranny mount: ~$100<br>Driver's seat heater: ~$550<br>Driver's seat cover (burned a hole with failed heater): ~$1000 (R has unique leather)<p>Most of the above are dealer prices. I haven't fixed the seat heater and cover yet, as I'm looking for cheaper alternatives.<p>Other than that, it's been great <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>Best thing for you to do is get the VIN #, then come back, find John from BVV (Boston Volvo) and ask him to run a history on the vehicle. You can call him too, google Boston Village Volvo, call and ask for John in the parts dept. Tell him Swedespeed sent you.<p>On the test drive, make sure the AWD is working (go WOT in 1st gear with the traction turned off, if you don't spin the front tires you're good), and just make sure everything works, turn radio off, listen to the car while on the road, etc. If you can take it to a mechanic for an inpection, good, if you can take it to a volvo dealer to check for DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes), also good.<p>You might hear a noise at full turn in either direction, don't panic, just the tires rubbing against the inner fender wall, which is normal for this car.
 

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Re: Looking to purchase a S60R - a few questions (Needsdecaf)

Yes, R's in general have there weak points just like many other cars. They tend to be expensive weak points if they do fail however. Therefore, I would say, do more research on the differences of 04/05 vs 06/07 and if you can deal with those differences then go for it. One major thing tho, DEFINITELY and HIGHLY RECOMMENDED to purchase an ext. warrany (if possible) from a volvo dealership, even if its a 3rd party (assuming you purchase the coverages and packages correctly). That way, if/when you have any issues, bring the car back to the dealership you bought the warranty from, they should have close ties or make it easier to communicate with the warranty company. I have 1st hand experience with this and so far its been pretty easy. I can give you details of my experience if you want to PM me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the answers guys. I'll take a deeper look into the differences between MY04/05 and 06/07. <p>Does the torque limiter really create that much of a difference in driveability? Ive read that its possible to remove the limiter - any truth to that?<p>Obviously the 6spd auto is better, but from a non-performance point of view, is this really a big deal? <p>I guess I should have mentioned, but I will definately buy an aftermarket warranty with the vehicle.
 

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Re: (neovb)

May I suggest giving a MT a shot? The clutch is so easy to work with plus the car will roll/keep rolling when you let the clutch out so no gas needed to slowly get going in traffic and no gas/clutch play to keep rolling at slow speed. It's a more managable than other cars.
 

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Re: Looking to purchase a S60R - a few questions (neovb)

I have a 2004. I put 20K/year on mine too. (CPO will expire in about 400 miles) Mine is an automatic as well. Mine is a daily driver too. There are several problems which many describe as trivial but become very annoying with a daly driver. Here's a few examples. (1) The turning radius. It's horrible. If you are concerned with pumping a clutch over and over, you should be very concerned about parking this car. It's a nightmare on a day in and day out basis. (2) The back seat. It's a joke. If you use it like I do, to actually transport "people," it's not very user friendly. (3) Ground clearance. If you enter any driveway that has anything more than a 1 percent incline, you will trash the underside of your car. If you pull into a parking space with one of those contrete dividers or up to a cub of a side walk, you will pull the entire front bumper off of the car. Minimum $800 to fix unless you figure out how to "jury-rig" it but there are few things as horrible sounding as that noise your bumper makes as it's being torn off (especially if you know how much $$ it's going to cost to replace). (4) I had to have a headlamp replaced - $1,100.!!! (5) Again, as a daily driver, the brake squeel is annoying. (6) Research the "side hop" issue. (7) Tire rubbing. Relates to point 1 above. If you turn the wheel all the way while moving (which you must do to avoid a 14 point turn), you will hear a terrible rubbing noise from the front. I complained and I was told that, for several hundred dollars, they could put some spacers in there. (8). There is an annoying clicking noise from the axle area. They won't fix it. <br> Most of these things might be overlooked if you are truly ga ga over the car but if it is your daily driver, it gets old real fast. And virtually all of these points have been raised over and over again in this forum so there is much back and forth on these issues.
 

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Re: (neovb)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>neovb</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>Does the torque limiter really create that much of a difference in driveability? Ive read that its possible to remove the limiter - any truth to that?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Yes, and yes. To do so you have to buy a torque limiter delete reflash from IPD or RICA - for about $1k. It's a HUGE change. Warning, will likely void your warranty if a dealer catches on.<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>neovb</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess I should have mentioned, but I will definately buy an aftermarket warranty with the vehicle.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>beware of non-volvo aftermarket warranties for this car.
 

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Re: Looking to purchase a S60R - a few questions (MJVolvo)

IMHO if you are looking for a good used Volvo as a daily driver but like the looks of S60R, get an S60 2.5T with a body kit and nice wheels. Better yet would be an S60T5 but they are few and far between. Don't get me wrong, the S60R is a fantastic car, but it is not cheap to keep.
 

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People here overstate the problems. Yes, certain things fail at relatively high rates. Get a warranty and see what TNN's have been done. If you're looking for a Euro performance sedan, expect a few expensive common issues...<p>Biggest (expensive) issues are clutch and angle gear. If they've been done, great. If not, you may never have a problem anyway.<p>On the hole, this car will surpass 200k if you maintain it. Itll also be fun and comfortable the whole way.<p>Yes, it consumes some oil via turbo blow-by. 1/4-1/2 quart every 5k, in my experience.<BR><BR>
<i>Modified by imageomega at 4:12 PM 5-19-2009</i>
 

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Re: (Needsdecaf)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Needsdecaf</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>beware of non-volvo aftermarket warranties for this car. </TD></TR></TABLE><br>Why?<br>As long as it's the "right" one, no problems
 

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Re: (xman03)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>xman03</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The clutch is so easy to work with plus the car will roll/keep rolling when you let the clutch out so no gas needed to slowly get going in traffic and no gas/clutch play to keep rolling at slow speed. It's a more managable than other cars. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>huh, i never noticed that, i just assumed if i let the clutch out it would kill without giving it gas, must experiment on the way home. never thought i'd learn something in a 'looking to purchase thread' must read more about drive by wire i guess...<br> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>like other say get 06+ on autos,, manual '05 and up you're fine. tons of great info, just stick on here while you search for your R, by the time you find one, you'll know what to do when you get it home. exhaust bracket, exhaust bracket, exhaust bracket.<br>
 

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Re: (atacamaR)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>atacamaR</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>huh, i never noticed that, i just assumed if i let the clutch out it would kill without giving it gas, must experiment on the way home. never thought i'd learn something in a 'looking to purchase thread' must read more about drive by wire i guess...<br> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>like other say get 06+ on autos,, manual '05 and up you're fine. tons of great info, just stick on here while you search for your R, by the time you find one, you'll know what to do when you get it home. exhaust bracket, exhaust bracket, exhaust bracket.<br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>I have never driven a decent manual transmission car that cannot do this.<p>Let the clutch out slowly - you don't need the gas. It does strain the clutch, though, as you have to do it pretty slowly for it to be smooth.
 

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I know a guy selling an 04 with all evolve upgrades for 25K in mint condition. He bought a 911 and I guess the wife won't let him keep both. If interested let me know.
 

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Re: (atacamaR)

what about the exhaust bracket? I've heard something about it before in another forum but is there something I should do about it? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (sinisin63)

The exaust bracket should be removed, if you hit a pothole or something it will cost to repair damage. Its a 10 min removal with ramps. <p>If you go to exaust shop another things is removal of resonator(aka. JRL mod) it will give the car more clearance in the middle. Straight pipe should be welded in place of the resonator.
 
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