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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Our 2012 XC 60 T6 started having long start cranking times this spring. I had it into the dealership and they couldn't diagnose the problem. They replaced the fuel pump as it was a suspected cause(checked the thread here that mentioned that)....no change in starting behaviour. Doesn't seem to be a pattern ie) warm start vs cold start. Ran a tank of fuel stabilizer and cleaner through it on a road trip and still no change. It has 170,000km on it, it's in great shape and used to start as soon as you touched the starter. Really like the vehicle and the T6 engine.

Todd
 

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I have also had this very intermittently. Usually a key off and back on fixes it. Next time it happens I'll plug my dice in and see what's up.

I'm thinking it may be a module initialization issue. When my transmission was replaced the dealer had an issue with the TCM initializing and it would do the same thing; crank and start intermittently.

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Starter issues have caused this on 3.2/3.0T engines. If it starts normal when jumped that would be an indication of this. The starter current draw will be high when it has a starter problem. 130-145 Amps is normal, not the first high reading as starter begins to move engine but continuous cranking current. I'm assuming a good battery. I have not seen the problem with a good starter and a bad battery. The P3 and P2 models I have seen with the long crank due to starter also had severe flicker to dome lamps.
 

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Our 2012 XC 60 T6 started having long start cranking times this spring. I had it into the dealership and they couldn't diagnose the problem. They replaced the fuel pump as it was a suspected cause(checked the thread here that mentioned that)....no change in starting behaviour. Doesn't seem to be a pattern ie) warm start vs cold start. Ran a tank of fuel stabilizer and cleaner through it on a road trip and still no change. It has 170,000km on it, it's in great shape and used to start as soon as you touched the starter. Really like the vehicle and the T6 engine.

Todd
Problems cranking over are usually a bad starter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you for all of your responses. I will have the starter looked at when I have it serviced next time.

Todd
 

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Is the OP's car doing what is happening in the video or long cranking with maybe only a firing occasionally? Starter issues causes the RPM sensor (crank sensor) signal problems that prevent the ECM from establishing crank position. With starter problem you won't see noticeable slow engine cranking speed if battery is good. You might be able to tell the car with starter problem is slower if you had another 3.0T or 3.2 if there was one sitting there to compare it to. The sensor is about 180 degrees from starter but a bad starter with high current draw creates higher flux and that can cause magnetic based sensors have issues. The late 5 cylinders and all Drive-E engines have digital sensors that although they are magnetic, they have less sensitivity than the inductive analog sensors. Another characteristic of starter caused issues is that often when the engine does crank it occurs when the controlled start cycle ends or you punch button again stop the start cycle. If the starter power stops at the right position the inertial flywheel motion might create the signal to yield a coil firing and it starts.

There is another long cranking, no start cause but I have never known of a short 6 having the problem: crankshaft end play excessive. This lets the surface of flywheel that RPM sensor reads to be too far over and the perforations on flywheel are not where they cause the signal. There should be engine knocking when it runs, usually at idle, with this issues as the crank will move axially and bump the main bearing partition.
 

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Is the OP's car doing what is happening in the video or long cranking with maybe only a firing occasionally? Starter issues causes the RPM sensor (crank sensor) signal problems that prevent the ECM from establishing crank position. With starter problem you won't see noticeable slow engine cranking speed if battery is good. You might be able to tell the car with starter problem is slower if you had another 3.0T or 3.2 if there was one sitting there to compare it to. The sensor is about 180 degrees from starter but a bad starter with high current draw creates higher flux and that can cause magnetic based sensors have issues. The late 5 cylinders and all Drive-E engines have digital sensors that although they are magnetic, they have less sensitivity than the inductive analog sensors. Another characteristic of starter caused issues is that often when the engine does crank it occurs when the controlled start cycle ends or you punch button again stop the start cycle. If the starter power stops at the right position the inertial flywheel motion might create the signal to yield a coil firing and it starts.

There is another long cranking, no start cause but I have never known of a short 6 having the problem: crankshaft end play excessive. This lets the surface of flywheel that RPM sensor reads to be too far over and the perforations on flywheel are not where they cause the signal. There should be engine knocking when it runs, usually at idle, with this issues as the crank will move axially and bump the main bearing partition.
What?

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I have a 2012 XC60 T6. Is the starter on the front right of the engine like many other Volvos or is is located underneath the rock guard on bottom of the vehicle?
 
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