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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now that I have returned to my namesake with a little red V50, and am blessed to be the caretaker of a "unicorn", I figured it is time to create a build thread.

I bought this car sight unseen after speaking with its most recent owners (a professional couple in their late 50s) for $3,500. This car came out of Quebec, is in fairly rough shape (with the exception of the body, miraculously) and is at nearly 200,000 km (125,000 miles), so there will be plenty of little items that I can post about.

Options:

  • Leather interior
  • Premium audio
  • Xenon headlights
  • Cold climate package
  • Zaurak wheels

These ticked all of my must haves, but alas I will always lament not having keyless drive. I couldn't see a single V50 for sale with that option, let alone a T5 AWD M66 with it. What kind of a new car buyer cheaps out on such a convenient option that's only $500???

To start with, here are some photos of the car. The previous owners towed the car on flatbed to my location, and apparently did some off-roading along the way, because it arrived covered in mud!







The car is arriving with a reasonably long list of issues (which surprised me a bit), however after living with it for a few days, the positives definitely outweigh the cons. Keep in mind that it's not registered yet, so I can only toodle slowly around my parking lot.

I hooked up VIDA/DICE and scanned the codes. Nearly 30 codes from just about every module on the car. Looked under the hood, and there's an indadequately sized low quality battery that's nearly 6 years old.. not a good sign! I promptly swapped it in for a new battery. Cleared codes and checked them again - only one code has persisted related to the calibration of the right xenon headlight. That's a relief!

Still a long list of items to address:

  • Windshield is badly cracked - I have this on order from Volvo, and it was surprisingly inexpensive at just over $300 including shipping. Installation quoted at about $250.
  • Belts squeal until engine is warm, despite the belts having been changed
  • The exhaust blows - looks like the downpipe has been repaired at the flexpipe
  • Power steering pump whines even when sitting still and not turning the wheel
  • Coolant is overfull, and is yellow/orange (for some reason it bothers me that it's not Volvo blue...)
  • Interior is a bit rough, missing some little bits and some trim clips
  • Clutch pedal is missing the pad
  • Tires are completely bald
  • There's a bit of a grinding when the car moves - the owner said it was the tires, but I think it could be a front wheel bearing (they used a cheap bearing to fix one, and I'm sure the shop that did it didn't have the right tool) or a bearing on the AWD drive shaft
  • More, I'm sure...

The car will get all of the basics that a new car would get - fresh fluids, filters, fix common points of failures, etc.

I'm going to swap over the wheels and tires from my S40 - I like the Sagitta's better, and they have a fairly fresh set of 225/45R17 Continental DWS06's on them which have treated me very well.

I will also be swapping over all of the S40's performance parts and tuning the car once it is at stage 1 and has proven reliable.
 

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Sweet! Excited to follow your build!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Welcome to the red wagon club. Nice ride. I'm jealous for the Premium sound and the a little for the wheels but I like mine too.
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Volvo v50 Volvo cars
 

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...
These ticked all of my must haves, but alas I will always lament not having keyless drive. I couldn't see a single V50 for sale with that option, let alone a T5 AWD M66 with it. What kind of a new car buyer cheaps out on such a convenient option that's only $500???

...
call me old fasion (or paranoid) but thats one of the options I would pay extra NOT to have. There is something principally wrong with this all "Im too bothered to open the car using the button" new trend that I will never understand but hey, everyone at their own! :)

Enjoy the unicorn, very nice! Jelous of winter pack but I suppose you need it more than me in your part of the world :p WOuldnt worry TOO much about all those errors, could have been stored there for years if its one of those owners like "my car drives and I dont care", rather than us, paranoid about every single EML trigerring off.
btw- totally get you ref coolant. I dont care orange/pink can be up to spec etc, I want to see VolvoBlue in the expansion tank! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, guys.

Welcome to the red wagon club. Nice ride. I'm jealous for the Premium sound and the a little for the wheels but I like mine too.
Thanks - I like your 'mini-pegs' as well.

call me old fasion (or paranoid) but thats one of the options I would pay extra NOT to have. There is something principally wrong with this all "Im too bothered to open the car using the button" new trend that I will never understand but hey, everyone at their own! :)

Enjoy the unicorn, very nice! Jelous of winter pack but I suppose you need it more than me in your part of the world :p WOuldnt worry TOO much about all those errors, could have been stored there for years if its one of those owners like "my car drives and I dont care", rather than us, paranoid about every single EML trigerring off.
btw- totally get you ref coolant. I dont care orange/pink can be up to spec etc, I want to see VolvoBlue in the expansion tank! :D
I definitely understand the paranoia, but it seems to be a feature that "just works", and the ignition barrel issue seems to affect cars regardless of this option. It's just that once you're spoiled by the feature it's tough to go back. Either way, not a big deal.

Thanks for the tips. It really was just a bad battery, and after battery replacement only one code returned!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Placed an order for some parts through Volvo of Toronto today.

Some fun bits:

- Roof Rails (black): 30756938
- Load Bars: 31454715

Some not-so-fun bits:

In addition to the broken windshield, an exhaust manifold gasket leak will prevent me from passing the Ontario safety test to register the car. On snugging up the nuts, I think one of the studs spun in the head. It still seems to have some resistance so I'm hoping to be able to re-tap the hole instead of having to drill it out and install a 'nut-cert'. I'll also swap the downpipe over from the S40 while I'm in there.

- 4 x Manifold Studs (just in case): 982667
- 12 x Manifold Nuts (because they're affordable): 985868
- Exhaust manifold gasket (surprisingly cheap - about the cost of two manifold studs!): 8699467
- Turbo to downpipe gasket: 30677190
- 3 x Turbo to downpipe bolts: 988939

The alternator belt is also screeching, so I ordered a new one. Just praying it's not the alternator itself or the tensioner.

- Alternator belt: 30777531

A few interior bits:

- Clutch pedal pad (not sure how the P.O. lost this): 30736649
- Clips for the panel on the hatch (it's not really hanging on on one end): 8679426
- Cover plate where the hatch latch engages (is missing): 39854373
- Spring for the hatch latch cover plate: 8687427

General service:

- Spark plug kit: 31312691
 

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You guys should trade wheels LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm counting my blessings, as yesterday I discovered that it was in fact the steel nut that had stripped out and not the stud that spun in the head. What a relief! I stripped the stud a bit trying to get the nut off, so I'll need to purchase a stud extractor to finish the job. Just hoping the gasket is fine and that I won't have to go through that whole process. We'll see once the new stud is in and things are tightened back up.



 

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I have 2007 V50 T5 M66 AWD in black. I do have the keyless and my first Volvo to have this. I really like it. I do not have where I can roll the windows down with the fob which was surprising to me. My daughter has 2006 S40 2.4i which she can roll the windows down with the fob without keyless. It would be nice to have Red but buying used, I am not that picky on colour. Congrats on your new sled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have 2007 V50 T5 M66 AWD in black. I do have the keyless and my first Volvo to have this. I really like it. I do not have where I can roll the windows down with the fob which was surprising to me. My daughter has 2006 S40 2.4i which she can roll the windows down with the fob without keyless. I would be nice to have Red but buying used, I am not that picky on colour. Congrats on your new sled.
Thanks very much. Black looks great, too - just have to keep it clean!

If you have a friend with VIDA, or ever take it to the dealership for something else they can enable rolling down the windows via the fob.
 

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I have VIDA. Is this a setting in VIDA or a software dump. If software, do you know the software part number? I will fix this right up.
 

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It's a setting in vida under the climate module I think. I successfully make it work on a 06 s40. Have to go through the programming steps. Won't do the roll up function, that was disabled in the us market
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, down the rabbit hole we go!

Replacement of one stud turned into more snapped studs and eventually the turbo coming off. Two studs snapped off flush with the head, and I couldn't recover from that. I had it towed to a shop and they spent all day trying to get those studs out - reportedly they couldn't get a nut solidly welded to them, and couldn't drill into it at all. I guess all those hot/cold cycles made the stud extremely hard and brittle.

Only thing left to do now is remove the head and take it to a machine shop. I think I am going to tackle it myself. Will be shimming the block while I'm at it. Only positive is that it will force me to tackle the leaking cam seal(s) sooner rather than later.

If anyone has any suggestions for worthwhile modifications while I'm in there, please speak now! If I hear people screaming "performance cams", "heavier valves springs", or "port it and polish it", I might just have to listen.

Jeez, I thought I could get this beauty on the road with just a few hours of work! Wish I could justify spending cash on a K16 right now - it might make all this feel worthwhile!
 

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You mentioned a squealing power steering pump. Is that issue fixable with a fluid flush or do you have to replace the pump? I have the same noisy issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You mentioned a squealing power steering pump. Is that issue fixable with a fluid flush or do you have to replace the pump? I have the same noisy issue.
I think it was the alternator serpentine belt - unconfirmed since the car hasn't run since I replaced it.

That being said, the power steering pump was making an odd lower pitch whining noise. Replacing the battery resolved the issue and it now makes the typical higher pitch noise only when the wheel is turned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, the head removal is well underway. Turbo is off, as it was before. Everything intake related is off. Wiring is out of the way., and mostly labelled. Most sensors and the coil packs are off. Accessory belts are off. VVT hubs are cracked loose.

Only a few more things to go:

  • Remove the VVT solenoids - damn are they ever in there - they rotate freely but won't budge vertically
  • Remove the cam plugs on the driver's side of the car, and crack loose the screws at the end of the cams with a hand impact
  • Remove (cut?) timing belt - it will be replaced with a new one
  • Suspend engine, remove motor mount, and the few metal and plastic pieces from that side of the engine
  • Remove cam cover and cams
  • Remove head
  • Voila!

Progress shot:



So many temptations are arising, as what an opportunity to upgrade while everything's apart. I will absolutely be shimming the block using shims made by DeeWorks. Tempted by Newman stage 1 cams. Tempted by a hybrid K04 with K16 internals (would require new injectors, maybe a new MAF). Tempted by an aftermarket inlet manifold with ported/polished intake runners to match. This may be an exercise in self restraint.
 

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Curious - why are you removing the VVT hubs, solenoids, cam covers, etc? Couldn't you have just marked them and left the head intact, since all you're doing is servicing the manifold studs, etc? I guess you do need to get to the head bolts under the cover, but it seems like you can leave a lot of stuff in place, or at least deal with them off the engine/car.
 

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Well, the head removal is well underway. Turbo is off, as it was before. Everything intake related is off. Wiring is out of the way., and mostly labelled. Most sensors and the coil packs are off. Accessory belts are off. VVT hubs are cracked loose.

Only a few more things to go:

  • Remove the VVT solenoids - damn are they ever in there - they rotate freely but won't budge vertically
  • Remove the cam plugs on the driver's side of the car, and crack loose the screws at the end of the cams with a hand impact
  • Remove (cut?) timing belt - it will be replaced with a new one
  • Suspend engine, remove motor mount, and the few metal and plastic pieces from that side of the engine
  • Remove cam cover and cams
  • Remove head
  • Voila!

Progress shot:



So many temptations are arising, as what an opportunity to upgrade while everything's apart. I will absolutely be shimming the block using shims made by DeeWorks. Tempted by Newman stage 1 cams. Tempted by a hybrid K04 with K16 internals (would require new injectors, maybe a new MAF). Tempted by an aftermarket inlet manifold with ported/polished intake runners to match. This may be an exercise in self restraint.
I'm so keen to see what you do with this thing...You know you want to give in to some of those temptations right??? :)

I'm interested in what gains you would see with the Newman Stage 1 cams.... I've seen their specs/performance but haven't seen a side by side comparison against the stock cam. Have you?

Also interested to see that difference again on a car with common mods...i.e. DP, exhaust, intake and intercooler. Very interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Curious - why are you removing the VVT hubs, solenoids, cam covers, etc? Couldn't you have just marked them and left the head intact, since all you're doing is servicing the manifold studs, etc? I guess you do need to get to the head bolts under the cover, but it seems like you can leave a lot of stuff in place, or at least deal with them off the engine/car.
I am thinking about upgrading the cams, and would need to transfer the VVT hubs, etc. to the new cams. Easiest place to remove these seems to be on the engine with it in gear to provide resistance. Wouldn't want to damage them in a vice, etc (and I don't have a real impact wrench).

All of the instructionals I've seen (including VIDA) include removing the VVT solenoids and I don't wan to bend them or mar anything when lifting the cover off because I didn't remove something. I'd also like to replace all of the seals I possibly can while I'm at it.

I'm so keen to see what you do with this thing...You know you want to give in to some of those temptations right??? :)

I'm interested in what gains you would see with the Newman Stage 1 cams.... I've seen their specs/performance but haven't seen a side by side comparison against the stock cam. Have you?

Also interested to see that difference again on a car with common mods...i.e. DP, exhaust, intake and intercooler. Very interesting.
I think I'm pretty set on the cams. It's the only thing that I really wouldn't want to have to do after sealing everything back up. The primary reason I'm interested is because MNIWT has reported that the car will pull hard to redline instead of running out of puff. A member on C30Crew.com reported ~25 hp increase without even getting a tune. If you have an account you can see the dyno sheet and info here: http://www.c30crew.com/forum/showthread.php?10446-Building-the-Bosses-Car/page7
 
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