Here is some other Info on setting up the Vehicles Suspension . I Believe a Matched set of Bars Front & Back - would be as good as Coil Overs and rear Bar only .

Throw in the Front Bushings on the LCA's and now Your handling Better then Coil Overs . ( That said ) If You were doing mostly all Right Hand or Mostly Left Hand
on a Autocross - You could Preload the Coil Overs to Bias that side . Now One is also able to do that with Adjustable Sway Bar Links
which have now come available :

Check this out - as Far as I remember the Frt Driver side and Driver side Rear are
weighted more in stock set up . Battery really needs to be Moved to Rear Right and Low - try that on this Calculator :

Numbers will turn Red to Green - try switching Battery weight from Corner to Corner .

http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets11.html

 

I Believe a Matched set of Bars Front & Back - would be as good as Coil Overs and rear Bar only .

Throw in the Front Bushings on the LCA's and now Your handling Better then Coil Overs .

Dan, where do you find an inspiration to post such nonsense?

 

Cough - that would be with Lowering Springs of course & I also forgot to mention - Front Bushings .

I Guess , I need to do some Laps in the Rain . Stock Front Bar .

Match Bars front Back are always better .

A Lot of these Guys are running 235's - I'm still on 215's

 

Even with the lowering springs instead of coilovers your theory doesn't really stand well. Instead of starting a long discussion here let me just remind you that stiffer springs will, in addition to body roll, also fight the dive and squat while roll bars will not help there at all.

I recommend reading this before making any more recommendations on suspension tuning..
http://www.modified.com/tech/0506_sccp_making_it_stick_part_1/viewall.html

 

Kova - I don't have to read - I have Lived It - If I bogged 15 years ago I would have Wrote it .
I'm certainly No Expert - On Suspension Geo - thou My Brother .

I enjoy Your rebuff's thou : I suppose You going to tell Us Your Totally Nose heavy C70
would Not benefit from Front Bushings or Frt. Bar . Driving Into an Off Ramp - Under Hard Braking ?

My Up grades were all done in Separate Stages - First Bar , then later Springs , then Later yet - Front Bushings .

I never said Bars would be doing anything with Anti - Dive : as I mention this in Geo Effect from Bushings .
Not the position of the Out side Corner of the Car as it be effected by a Frt. bar in a Corner .

Matched Bars Front & Back are Always Better - Period .

Now - I've done Rear Bars on other vehicles with Mixed Results , so I tried a Front Bar only on a FWD VW CC - also going from 235's to 215's , but Lighter Wheels -- seeing
I wasn't Testing on Bumpy Roads or Rough surfaces I left the Lighter Wheels out of Equation - Yet I did state there was a slightly wider stance 7-10 mm which isn't very much .

235's Tires it pushed Big Time with ( Higher Air Pressure ) - even with H.A.P In Frt.
CC lighter wider stance Wheels 215's slightly better Tire - still Pushed - tried several Air Pressure settings . Only marginal Better .
Bar and Frt. Bushings (( White Line - ( Anti Dive / Anti Lift ) to Aid in Traction )) Traction really sucked . Like I stated : CC was completely transformed.

Balanced and Now able to take Corners on same tires 10 - 15 MPH Higher - with Complete Clam . I'll say a Rear Bar does Help , but a Frt. Bar does more !

I read the Article as I'm always learning New Tip & Tricks . I have to disagree with their saying No weight shift to the out side . ( Re-guarding Body Roll )
As Inertia is an Energy Force all in Itself - I will Call It Load ! :beer:

ps: ON the AWD - 1 Rear Bar Fits all solution is not the best , the Rubber Duro Rates , Springs and weight Center line - location are different .
I was getting Better Under steer to sudden Over steer just past the Apex vs. Lots of over-steer - 2 lanes - trying to use Power to overcome . ( Stock )
Pss: I'm searching for a Better Balance :

http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets11.html

 

If anyone has tried the Frt. Bar on AWD or FWD - Volvo : jump in as First hand experience Per said Vehicle - Kova refuses to try a new set up .. LOL

Springs & Rear Bar Only : results .
I was getting Better Under steer to sudden Over steer just past the Apex vs. Lots of over-steer - 2 lanes - trying to use Power to overcome . ( Stock )

I'm searching for a Better Balance : Bushings allow for Faster Suspension Response - Extra Caster 1 degree seems to damped out
the sudden over-steer at least on 215's . . . Maybe going to 225's or a very stick Tire would bring some of that back. Chassis is more stable .

http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets11.html

Stock Tires vs 16 " Hydro's vs 17" Ex-streams DWS - so I'm Up a few little notched on Tires .

Anyone's Input on Wider Rims etc. - jump in .

 

it is important to note the age of replaced parts, for example the bushings, if your comparing worn out bushings to new poly bushings then there will be a huge difference. if your comparing both new rubber and poly bushings you will find that rubber bushings arnt that bad, yes poly will be stiffer but at the cost of an extremely rough ride on other parts.

that being set, suspension is really a sum of all its parts working together. if you have somethings worn out and other things new , it may actually make things worse. also if some parts are worn and other things are new you are more than likely wearing out the new items faster than they would normally.

it is also important to match things to work together. for eg. if you are to replace stock springs with stiffer lowering springs, you also need to adjust the dampening on the shocks to compensate or it will be a very bouncy ride.

 

Most Know Miles & Care .

2007 & 66,000 miles Currently - I'd say None of the Bushings were shot , Large Lower - LCA Bushings stock are a bit soft to begin .

I didn't experience any Stiffer or Hard Ride - might be some sound transfer on abrupt Rumble strips but had some of that stock - the
Fully Grease and easier movement allows good ride. The Blue Bushings seem Harder then the Yellow Ones .
The Chassis seems Firmer ( I have lighter Brakes in Frt. ) so that actually helped Ride ,these are Faster responding - thou - the Added Caster
seems to have Aid the Tire contact Patch .

I probably should have moved the Battery to the Rear . #30 from up high Frt. to down Low back - looks too Balance a lot .

Anyone running New Poly Front Sway Bar Bushings ?
Tweaking those to Firmer and easy moving might be a good move .

 

OMG, what a mess!

Without any intention to enter into interpersonal discussion about suspension my friendly advice to anyone who want so make Volvo stock suspension more "sporty" is this:

1.) install front strut bar and check the front-rear balance (understeer vs oversteer). Most probably you will find the neutral balance has pretty much been restored. Use high quality summer touring tires. If not satisfied proceed to next point.
2.) install mildly lowered springs (20-35mm) with adequate shocks (Koni FSD or Bilstein B8 or Koni Yellows or similar). Most probably this will be pretty much what you wanted unless you want to track your car extensively and sacrifice comfort. Upgrade to lower control arms rear poly bushings. Increase your camber at least to the middle of the factory recommended range. Use high performance summer tires. If still not satisfied go to next point.
3.) install some serious coilovers (KW V3, Bilstein B16 PSS9 or H&R, depending on your budget). Upgrade front and rear sway bar and all bushings. Car will handle better on track days but be prepared for serious comfort degradation. Increase your camber to the high end of the factory recommended range. Use semi slick street legal tires. If still not satisfied read carefully next point.
4.) If you have come to this point then you want to seriously track your car and engage competition racing. This means you should stop reading forum nonsense and ask professional help.

 

OMG, what a mess!

4.) If you have come to this point then you want to seriously track your car and engage competition racing. This means you should stop reading forum nonsense and ask professional help.

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::beer:

 

The Discussion is about Sway Bays : Actually Testing Products & trying to Tune the Balance is one thing - Talking about is quite another .
( There Goes Your Theory )

Glad to Hear You - now see a Matched set of Bars is simply Far Better . So, then You would have to also agree a 1 Bar Fits all :
Weights , Spring Rates , Bushing hardness - Is Not - Best approach on 4 Different Models . ( C30, S40, V50 , C70 ) which all have Different Spring Rates .

I Fail to see where a Jump to Over-steer is Good . Please Enlighten Me ?

No Tracking Intended .

 

LOL - In a way It is a Mess , as everyone of these Chassis came with a Different mm size sway bar and a
1 shot , 1 size Fits All - is messy : :beer:

 

Some How I did Miss Your Post number #10 and went down the wrong Road - with - My Bar - Mis adjusted !
( I may have sounded - Bit Gruff ) sorry about That - Kova !

You certainly Nailed it all on Post #10 - My V50 also over steered with Added Bar not as Bad - but the jump to Oversteer comes in sudden especially when coming out of a Corner
where the road has a - Crown in it - Add in Alignment being Set for - stock Springs - I was having to do a 5-6 inch steering wheel input . ( Quickly )
Especially using a some what stickier tire then stock - this rolls the Frt over .

I would say these Rear bars should : Only be Run with Lowered Springs or Coil Overs , also an Alignment should be performed to suit said Set Up

I don't think anyone Here has tested a Posi-type set up :
Quaife diff - Very good - I don't think I heard much about that ( May have Missed that ) , and good to Hear that C70 is more Neutral in the Curves .

 

I've been looking at swaybar upgrades

(stiffness compared to stock Mazda)
Stock v50 are 19mm and 21.5mm.

Stock Mazda 3 bar 18mm 334lb/in

Hardrace is 22mm

Whiteline is 24mm

Racing beat 27mm
Tortion: 976 lb/in.* (287% Compared stock, 187% Stiffer than stock)

Corksport is 25mm
Tortion (Soft): 794 lb/in.** (230% Compared to stock, 130% Stiffer than stock)
Tortion (Firm): 1104 lb/in.** (320% Compared to stock, 220% Stiffer than stock)

elevate v50 24.5mm

VIVA 22mm


I think this is the best one I've found for value and adjustability

James Barone Racing 32mm Tortion (Soft): 867 lb/in.* (255% Compared to stock, 155% Stiffer than stock)
Tortion (Firm): 1241 lb/in.* (365% Compared to stock, 265% Stiffer than stock). (soldout)

 

I think this is the best one I've found for value and adjustability

James Barone Racing 32mm Tortion (Soft): 867 lb/in.* (255% Compared to stock, 155% Stiffer than stock)
Tortion (Firm): 1241 lb/in.* (365% Compared to stock, 265% Stiffer than stock). (soldout)

You are responding to an archaic thread, but I agree. Too bad they are sold out. Wonder if they plan to make more. I run mine in the middle hole. You also need the 12mm end links.

 

.
According to IPD their bar works for the P1 S40 V50 C30 C70 Models
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/489...oducts/4894/110419-volvo-anti-sway-bar-kit-p1-s40-v50-c30-c70-models-ipd-110419
.
I have the Whiteline (27mm) which was installed a month and half ago. Sold to someone who returned it with the "Distress Packaging". Took my Offer of $115.00. You can read the review on eBay. It's being used with the Febi end links from FCP.
.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Whiteline-.../124026609966?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l10137.c10&nordt=true&rt=nc&orig_cvip=true
.
If I had to do this over I would purchase an used Mazda 3 (25mm) bar. The Whiteline turn in was a too quick and too much oversteer with no roll. This was fixed after installing Rear Adjustable Camber Arms and aligned to almost O Camber. Response is even quicker but in control with better neutral steer and feel. I couldn't find the used Mazda 25mm bar on eBay previously listed but this might work. Contact the seller and if it's 25mm it's worth a try.
.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stabilizer...Rear-Fits-09-13-Mazda-6-OEM/174253763106?hash=item2892556a22:g:lqcAAOSwiplemar8
.
This may work?
.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Whiteline-...zda-3-Adjust/121485993915?epid=236046513&hash=item1c492127bb:g:VS0AAOSwn51UY584
.

 

I don't know what the wrecking yard situation is in your area but you can find quite a few Mazdaspeed 3 bars on www.car-part.com for as low as $35. If there's one near you and it's open you should be able to pick it up along with the mounting hardware for fairly cheap. I have an MS3 bar from eBay on my S40 and I like it but I'm not out racing it so haven't truly evaluated it against other bars.