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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hopefully this topic isn't too beat up, and trust me I've done my research, but just wanted the input of fellow swedespeeders. I'm looking into new wheels. Smaller diameter, but something wider with a deeper lip. I am currently running 19x8.5 ET45 with 15mm spacers in the back and the front sits pretty flush. All fenders are rolled.

I'm thinking of getting 18x9 ET35 5x108. Will they fit? Will they stick out too much? Has anyone on here run something similar? Will I need to roll my fenders more? Will there be brake clearance issues? I've used willtheyfit.com and it says it will only stick out about 1/2 an inch more than before, which doesn't seem too bad. I am currently on Eibachs, but recently purchased some coilovers.

I am also looking into something with 18x9 ET38 5x108.

P.S. I'm also thinking of doing a QTP electronic cutout. I'm currently running a Magnaflow muffler. I've heard mix reviews about putting a cutout on a 2.4. Some have said it's too raspy and honda-ish. Some say it's awesome. If I were to do it, should I do a resonator delete? Is there room to put the cutout after the cat, but before the resonator? Will a O2 spacer be needed?

P.P.S Since I will be installing my coilovers soon, I have a set of used Koni FSD's that might be up for sale. I know Koni America offers a warranty and depending of if there's a issue with them after I take them off, I may send them in to get a new set. Just a feeler to see if anyone would be interested in them. Let me know.

Thanks for your help everyone and Happy New Year!
 

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18x9 ET35:
Compared to your existing wheel, this new wheel will have an inner rim which is 11.4mm closer to the suspension strut.
The outer rim will poke out 1.4mm more than before.

18x9 ET38:
Compared to your existing wheel, this new wheel will have an inner rim which is 14.4mm closer to the suspension strut.
The outer rim will poke out 1.6mm less than before.

I don't think that would be an issue :)
 

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Subscribed. I may not need flares if I can do a 9" wide rim. Now tread width, thats another question. What tire are you planning to run?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
18x9 ET35:
Compared to your existing wheel, this new wheel will have an inner rim which is 11.4mm closer to the suspension strut.
The outer rim will poke out 1.4mm more than before.

18x9 ET38:
Compared to your existing wheel, this new wheel will have an inner rim which is 14.4mm closer to the suspension strut.
The outer rim will poke out 1.6mm less than before.

I don't think that would be an issue :)
Thanks LeemansJ! But looking at the numbers...are those numbers reversed? I would think they would be sticking out further with a wider width and lower offset? Correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks for looking into it though!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Subscribed. I may not need flares if I can do a 9" wide rim. Now tread width, thats another question. What tire are you planning to run?
Thanks! You were thinking of running flares? Custom? I am currently running 225/35/19 without any issues and the tires don't look stretched at all. I'm thinking with 18x9 I will want to run a 225/40/18.
 

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225mm is pretty good. Any rubbing? How low are you. Im not slammed but I do have coilovers.

I know some of the dsm guys run 250s with VR4 9" wide rims and have massive grip.

Edit: yes considering plastic rubber rivet flares.
 

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To the OP. Buy your coilovers and measure everything before buying the wheels.

Heres an idea why (my coilover clearance)
 

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They will "fit" kinda, lots of poke and and camber needed though. I'm guessing you're into the stanced, moar low look? I've been looking at new wheels, a square setup, 18x8 ET40-50 and that should produce a nice clean flush look. Since 5x108 stock is next to nothing I'm looking at fill and drill or sleeved but you could use adapters as well.
 

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Nope, I'm pretty close to stock ride height. Only dropped about 1". Camber has no real impact on clearance (on the front). My car is set up to be as non descript as possible while still providing as much performance as possible. My goal is maximum performance for as little cash as possible. Some of the items I have purchased have been kind of expensive but not compared to other options on the market. That is why I am interested getting the maximum amount of rubber under the car. Great tires + cheap coilovers >> ok tires + expensive coilovers.
 

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I still really want to know the widest tire anyone has been able to fit under a P1 without rubbing.
 

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Poke will also be dependent on the camber that you plan to run. At my ride height with stock camber arms, I'm at -3.5° and I can fit 20mm spacers with 18x8 ET+40 on my rear wheels, but dialing the camber back in to -1.5° and things are perfectly flush with 5mm spacers.

Also, what size rubber do you plan to wrap these in? I'm running 245s right now, so there's a lot more meat overhanging the rim of the wheel. I'll be going to 255s next month.

To the OP. Buy your coilovers and measure everything before buying the wheels.

Heres an idea why (my coilover clearance)
THIS! Always dial in your suspension before buying wheels and tires. When you're playing the low flush game, you're playing with millimeters both on the inside and outside.
Unless you're heart is really set on this particular set of wheels, I would rather the car sit and handle the way I prefer and find wheels I like, than have wheels I love but have the car at stock height and sloppy.

 

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Midirs you had to use negative camber, or you just wanted to have it slammed?
 

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Midirs you had to use negative camber, or you just wanted to have it slammed?
I always have a good bit of negative camber, just handles better.
In that picture, -2° with 25mm spacers to get the Midirs nice and flush.
 

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I always have a good bit of negative camber, just handles better.
In that picture, -2° with 25mm spacers to get the Midirs nice and flush.
Yeah it's a shame Midirs have such a high offset. Really 25mm spacers, I'm assuming these are the 7.5 width.
 

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Yeah it's a shame Midirs have such a high offset. Really 25mm spacers, I'm assuming these are the 7.5 width.
Yep, 7.5" Which is why they are no more. I really loved those wheels, but I couldn't fit enough rubber to keep the car gripping the road.
 

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Could always wait for a set of 18x8's to come along. That could be a long while though.
 

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Could always wait for a set of 18x8's to come along. That could be a long while though.
Frustratingly, 3 weeks after mounting the TSWs, an 18x8 set of Midirs became available. But honestly, I'd rather spend the money on a quality set of aftermarket wheels than to buy something else that's OEM. I've always loved the design of the TSW Carthage, so I was excited to finally get them. Plus they're fairly unique in this area, I've never seen another car (in person) with them. The only other Volvo which had these wheels sold them a long time ago.
 
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