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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
(Final answer about 12mm)

I recently pulled out broken axle (using the axle removal tool) and installed the new one from volvo.
While it's close, I'm concerned that i did not get it ALL the way into the transmission. Does anyone have pic of their fully inserted driver side axle to compare mine to.

I don't recall whether i took the pic of the old one after i had already started wedging it out. But the new one is inserted to about that same depth... but again i may have taken pic after i got it to move :-(

Last question: how hard should i have to push or pound on the end of the axle to get it fully inserted. The C-ring made it past the front of splines so should there be yet another effort to get the axle fully seated inside?
I didnt want to bang too hard on it.

Thanks for any help!
Re pic: old on top, new on bottom (just in case it's not obvious)
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These are brand new cars, no one has had theirs for anything more than a year or two. I highly doubt you'll find anyone who has done the axles on here. Someone might have access to a service system I guess. Hope i'm wrong and someone can answer your question.

I presume you bought a crashed car and are trying to fix it up?


Also it's not an S60R, they haven't made an S60R since 2007. R-design trim level, nothing more. Yes it matters :p
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
These are brand new cars, no one has had theirs for anything more than a year or two. I highly doubt you'll find anyone who has done the axles on here. Someone might have access to a service system I guess. Hope i'm wrong and someone can answer your question.

I presume you bought a crashed car and are trying to fix it up?

Also it's not an S60R, they haven't made an S60R since 2007. R-design trim level, nothing more. Yes it matters :p
I'm sure someone out there has looked under their vehicle... or can look and get a picture or comparison to what I've shown.
A simple "it should be more flush with transmission" is enough for me to disassemble & give it a bit more push.
Thanks
 

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It looks like it has more room to go. Haven't paid attention to any and haven't had to replace any yet. I'll take a look at one if I get a chance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Fun time of disassembly for about the 5th time... but upon reassembly the axle still doesn't seem to go in deeper.
Caliper off, knuckle off, axle out, strut removed...
119956

119960
 

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Do you still have the old axle?
If so put them side by side for a comparison.
If so put the old axle back and see how far it goes.

To answer one question once the axle is lined up and started it should only take 3 to 4 whacks from a 3 to 4 lb dead blow hammer.
For the occasional stubborn ones that need a sharp, sudden blow you can thread a sacrificial bolt into the end of the outer CV and use a small sledge hammer on that rather than damage the splines.
There's a good chance I'll see some control samples at work tomorrow, if so will update.
In the mean time you might also pull it back out to look at the lock ring to see if it's became distorted or bent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Do you still have the old axle?
If so put them side by side for a comparison.
If so put the old axle back and see how far it goes.

To answer one question once the axle is lined up and started it should only take 3 to 4 whacks from a 3 to 4 lb dead blow hammer.
For the occasional stubborn ones that need a sharp, sudden blow you can thread a sacrificial bolt into the end of the outer CV and use a small sledge hammer on that rather than damage the splines.
There's a good chance I'll see some control samples at work tomorrow, if so will update.
In the mean time you might also pull it back out to look at the lock ring to see if it's became distorted or bent.
Response appreciated... i sent the old axle back for core refund. If not, i possibly would have reinserted to try to compare.
However i have picture of old (bottom) vs new (top) end and they are very much the same.
Also, the c clip is still in good shape.
119969


Another step i plan on doing is removing new axle & placing drop of something colorful on end of axle and see if it transfers to whatever is on inside of transmission the axle seems to butt up against...if it touches, then that's most likely as far as it can go.

Would really appreciate to see pic of properly installed driver side axle though for comparison.
 

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Sorry Joel, no S or V60's on my rack today for a direct comparison.

Did get a look at a SPA XC90 powertrain out of the car. Measured the gap between the left C/V housing and trans casting with a brake pad wear gauge. At the smallest point straight in 4 mm goes in and can wiggle a little, 5 mm won't go at all. Again that's an XC90 but wouldn't think they're that much different.
Typically the tool fits tight and won't go in easily. Does yours?
I will keep looking for a SPA S60 on anyone's rack next week. If you bought the part from a Volvo retailer you have the option of a Parts Support case.
Until then you're on the right path with testing and measuring what's in front of you best as practical.
 

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Okay, finally got an S60 on the rack.
The left axle does indeed have a larger gap than an XC90.
Gap between the C/V housing and glanced lip on trans case is a tight 12 mm measured with a brake pad wear gauge.
That means the OE axle in your first pic looks correct. Hard to say from second pic with exchange axle but it looks pretty close.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay, finally got an S60 on the rack.
The left axle does indeed have a larger gap than an XC90.
Gap between the C/V housing and glanced lip on trans case is a tight 12 mm measured with a brake pad wear gauge.
That means the OE axle in your first pic looks correct. Hard to say from second pic with exchange axle but it looks pretty close.
Hey thanks!! I didn't get notification of your response, but finally jumped back in here to check.
I'll try to get a measurement of the gap. But i did stick-measure from the c-clip space inside the transmission to the outer lip. Then compared that length to the axle end from the c-clip towards cv... and it is eyeballing very close to the same. So that in combination with what you're saying above, plus it does take an axle remover to jolt the axle out of the hole... I'm feeling more confident it's all tucked & locked inside as deep as it should be.
I appreciate your help...
pics of final resting place of axle...

Now to get that srs module reset (or a new one coded to the car)
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Hey thanks!! I didn't get notification of your response, but finally jumped back in here to check.
I'll try to get a measurement of the gap. But i did stick-measure from the c-clip space inside the transmission to the outer lip. Then compared that length to the axle end from the c-clip towards cv... and it is eyeballing very close to the same. So that in combination with what you're saying above, plus it does take an axle remover to jolt the axle out of the hole... I'm feeling more confident it's all tucked & locked inside as deep as it should be.
I appreciate your help...
pics of final resting place of axle...

Now to get that srs module reset (or a new one coded to the car)
View attachment 120927 View attachment 120928
Honestly, I think the gap is fine. Check the below. This is on my 2018 S90 T6



 
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