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Discussion Starter #1
So my slave cylinder is leaking badly...How well do the repair kits work, or would I be better off to replace the entire cylinder?

TIA!

(I have the style with the 'accordion' boot)
 

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I never had much luck with the rebuild holding up for very long. I would just replace it entirely. Hang onto the accordion boot, the new one probably won't have one.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I never had much luck with the rebuild holding up for very long. I would just replace it entirely. Hang onto the accordion boot, the new one probably won't have one.
Thanks, Phil, but it looks like it is leaking from the boot. I'm not sure the back of the boot is securely fitting in the channel on the cylinder
 

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The boot is just to keep dirt out. But my rebuild kits did come with new ones. Personally unless you have a good hone and the cylinder is in really good shape, I'd just buy a professionally rebuilt one. I rebuilt mine but I only honed them with scotch-brite and my reservoir is already filled with black residue from the new piston seals being chewed up. Now my plan is to just wait for them both to start leaking again and then replace with new.
 

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Most people are not aware of it but ScotchBrite DOES come in different grits. Finer may have been better...
If there is any pitting it will probably be more than honing can help. DOT5 is good in clutches and if you keep it good and clean the cylinder can last as much as 15 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
The boot is just to keep dirt out. But my rebuild kits did come with new ones. Personally unless you have a good hone and the cylinder is in really good shape, I'd just buy a professionally rebuilt one. I rebuilt mine but I only honed them with scotch-brite and my reservoir is already filled with black residue from the new piston seals being chewed up. Now my plan is to just wait for them both to start leaking again and then replace with new.
Thanks, Lloyd...I know both you and Phil are the best, so I'll order up a new one....You too, George!
 

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Thanks, Lloyd...I know both you and Phil are the best, so I'll order up a new one.
'66 and earlier have a 3/4" bore ID, '68-up 13/16th".

The 3/4" repair kit is under $10 before ship.

If the cylinder hardparts are ok and the leak is from an imperfect bore any competent machine shop can sleeve the cylinder for a perfect fit.

The new sleeve will need the correct internal finish to assure no leaks and long life. Sleeve material would depend on how long the car sits between drives.

George Dill
 

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I rebuilt mine and it held up for about a month and then went back out. Ordered a new one and it's been fine for going on two years now.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
on order from iroll.com
 

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I rebuilt mine and it held up for about a month and then went back out. Ordered a new one and it's been fine for going on two years now.
i rebuilt mine as well with a kit from o'reilly, and it kept on leaking. i realised that i didn't line the cylinder with the plunger, so i lined everything up and it's still holding up (it's been a few months now). the bore was in good shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
received and installed!...Maybe I'll hang on to the one I took off, check the bore, attempt a rebuild and keep as a spare.
 

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If there's no deep rust or scoring, get a small adjustable hone, stick it in your drill, and clean out the bore. Don't go at it too hard, and run the hone in and out so you can get some cross hatching in the bore. Over the years (decades) I've restored quite a few wheel cylinders this way, plus a few master and slave cylinders.
 

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If there's no deep rust or scoring, get a small adjustable hone, stick it in your drill, and clean out the bore. Don't go at it too hard, and run the hone in and out so you can get some cross hatching in the bore. Over the years (decades) I've restored quite a few wheel cylinders this way, plus a few master and slave cylinders.
Yup, but...

Never let the spinning stones exit the ends of the cylinder.
Never use a solvent-like lubricant for a honing fluid (the glued-on stones will depart the hone).
Always final-finish the bore with a strip of carbon cloth wrapped around the stones - you'll figure it out.
Always clean the cylinder very thoroughly after boring.
Always coat everything with new brake fluid during re-assembly.
Always install the return spring so as not to rub on the rubber boot.
Always make sure the push rod is acting squarely on the clutch fork and adjusted to almost no free play.

George Dill
 

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Good point, George. I guess I just assumed ... :rolleyes:
 

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What is "carbon cloth"? Woven carbon fiber?
I've used kerosene in honing aluminum and never had hone stones loosen. I got lucky?
 
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