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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a pretty good leak originating from the connection between the lower transmission hose and the radiator. From y'alls experience, should I simply replace the o-rings and clip at that connection or replace the entire hose? It doesn't seem too difficult to replace the entire hose but looks can be deceiving, just wondering what y'all think.

Also, stick with Genuine Volvo ATF fluid to replace what I've lost?
 

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Start with the o-rings and clip. OR to be sure, clean it all off with brakleen and monitor where exactly is coming from. More than likely its just the o-rings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks.

Finally got a chance to get underneath the car and see the leak up close - it's definitely coming from the lower transmission hose connection with the radiator. The problem is, she's pretty rusty. I hit it with some penetrating oil and scraped off the loose pieces but it won't budge. I can't even work the clip free with a twist. Now, she's leaking even more after cleaning out the rust!

Wondering if anyone has any tips on trying to get this disconnected without doing any damage to the radiator. I have new clips and o-rings. Am I 'hosed' and looking at a new radiator? Leave it as is and plug it up with some type of sealant and tape? If I can get this disconnected, I'll replace the entire hose.

 

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Thanks.

Finally got a chance to get underneath the car and see the leak up close - it's definitely coming from the lower transmission hose connection with the radiator. The problem is, she's pretty rusty. I hit it with some penetrating oil and scraped off the loose pieces but it won't budge. I can't even work the clip free with a twist. Now, she's leaking even more after cleaning out the rust!

Wondering if anyone has any tips on trying to get this disconnected without doing any damage to the radiator. I have new clips and o-rings. Am I 'hosed' and looking at a new radiator? Leave it as is and plug it up with some type of sealant and tape? If I can get this disconnected, I'll replace the entire hose.

I had the same issue when I got a donor transmission cooler from the yard to install on my xc70. I could not twist, wiggle, pull, nothin. I finally shook my head and took the torch to it. Then sprayed it with more PB blaster. The. Torched again. I let it sit and then bit by bit I was able to get some wiggle and twisting happening. The reason you can’t get it out is the same reason it’s leaking: the corrosion is pushing the two pieces apart preventing the o-rings from doing their job.

Worst case, maybe cut the hose where it becomes rubber so that you can get some leverage on the thing. Eventually it will give. Try taking a few things out to give yourself more access: air box, plastic intake hose, etc.


2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I had the same issue when I got a donor transmission cooler from the yard to install on my xc70. I could not twist, wiggle, pull, nothin. I finally shook my head and took the torch to it. Then sprayed it with more PB blaster. The. Torched again. I let it sit and then bit by bit I was able to get some wiggle and twisting happening. The reason you can’t get it out is the same reason it’s leaking: the corrosion is pushing the two pieces apart preventing the o-rings from doing their job.

Worst case, maybe cut the hose where it becomes rubber so that you can get some leverage on the thing. Eventually it will give. Try taking a few things out to give yourself more access: air box, plastic intake hose, etc.


2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
Awesome, thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it. I'll try again, this weekend hopefully, using the tips you listed. How's the donor cooler holding up for you?
 

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Yeahhhh, thats a pain in the butt when its that rusty...But just keep at it, youll get it. Hopefully the O-ring surface isnt pitted when you get it out!
 

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Doner cooler is working very well, thank you. Important note: once you have heated up those o-rings and that green thingy there may be no turning back (ie the leak may end up being bigger if you can’t free it up. Plan accordingly.


2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Doner cooler is working very well, thank you. Important note: once you have heated up those o-rings and that green thingy there may be no turning back (ie the leak may end up being bigger if you can’t free it up. Plan accordingly.


2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
Glad to hear it!

And always...always use a new clip. Its a wonder they work to begin with as chincey as they are.
I already had a new set of o-rings and clips and went ahead and ordered a whole new hose figuring it was going to be too damaged to reuse with all the rust on it. And glad I did. When I got after it again this past weekend, I managed to snap off the existing hose leaving about an inch or so worth of nipple still in the radiator... thought I had it broken free but was just bending the fitting, not twisting everything...



So, I'll keep at it with the heat, penetrating oil, and grabbing what I can with pliers :/ If that doesn't work, maybe I'll give an internal bearing puller a shot. Thought about using one of those cammed pipe extractors but seems risky due to how thin the metal on the fitting is.

Just an update, that's where I'm at now.
 

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wow, talk about a simple job going sideways! I hate those!!! What a pain. Keep us updated.
 

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If ya ever decide to replace the top hose also, save the fitting with about 2'' of rubber hose still attached to the fitting. You can then use it as a tool to do no mess tranny flushes. The top port on the rad is the return line. Somewhere on here I did a step by step write up on how to do my own modified "Gibbins method" transmission flush.
 

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This lower connection at the radiator is going to be a problem for many cars - as they get old. Mine too is too rusted, no way to remove it - and from the pic above, better not to touch it. However, something must be done before it starts leaking, as the rust is swelling and breaks the two small o-rings and may also crack the hose. I'm going to pour on mine synthetic oil - perhaps some Pentosin, all over the lower hose to soak it well and keep it soaked so the rust doesn't advance. Going to do this during a dry week. Pentosin is full synthetic - I don't trust synthetic engine oils. Reason for synthetic is not to damage the o-rings (I'm not sure they are petroleum resistant although the transmission oil is not synthetic). This would be the only way to keep the rust from advancing. Of course, these are just my ideas as a 'preventative' treatment - I hope I'm not wrong and it won't damage anything further more, but from the pic above it looks like the metal hose gets eaten up by rust and sooner or later it will crack and leak or the seals will crack.


To the OP, I don't think it's an easy task to remove the part inside. The two o-rings get stuck really bad even on the upper hose - I had to use a pry bar to remove the upper one - also helps rotating it a little but not possible in your situation. Careful not to scratch inside the radiator neck - or it will leak even with new seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
wow, talk about a simple job going sideways! I hate those!!! What a pain. Keep us updated.
No kidding!

This lower connection at the radiator is going to be a problem for many cars - as they get old. Mine too is too rusted, no way to remove it - and from the pic above, better not to touch it. However, something must be done before it starts leaking, as the rust is swelling and breaks the two small o-rings and may also crack the hose. I'm going to pour on mine synthetic oil - perhaps some Pentosin, all over the lower hose to soak it well and keep it soaked so the rust doesn't advance. Going to do this during a dry week. Pentosin is full synthetic - I don't trust synthetic engine oils. Reason for synthetic is not to damage the o-rings (I'm not sure they are petroleum resistant although the transmission oil is not synthetic). This would be the only way to keep the rust from advancing. Of course, these are just my ideas as a 'preventative' treatment - I hope I'm not wrong and it won't damage anything further more, but from the pic above it looks like the metal hose gets eaten up by rust and sooner or later it will crack and leak or the seals will crack.


To the OP, I don't think it's an easy task to remove the part inside. The two o-rings get stuck really bad even on the upper hose - I had to use a pry bar to remove the upper one - also helps rotating it a little but not possible in your situation. Careful not to scratch inside the radiator neck - or it will leak even with new seals.
Yup, I wouldn't touch it if yours looks as rusted as mine does. As I've now learned, I should have gone the route of trying to seal up the leak with some type of sealant placed in/around the coupling to the radiator, aside from a new radiator. The piece that's rusted inside isn't moving...even if I hadn't broken it off I imagine.

Sorry for going radio dark on the topic for the past week or so - haven't been able to crawl under the car again until this past weekend. I decided to get more aggressive and used a fluted screw extractor to get more purchase on the broken nipple. I figured if I could get enough leverage with it to just crack it free from the rust, then I could continue with the pliers.

Well, the leverage I got wasn't enough to break the broken piece free, instead it was enough to break the coupling free from the radiator - I didn't know that piece was threaded in.

What I'm going to try next is to take the coupling off and see if I can get the broken piece out of it being able to work on a bench instead of under the car. I'm not confident in that, while not doing more damage, but worth a shot.

If that doesn't work, I'll see if I can grab a coupling in better shape off a junk yard car.

And if that doesn't work, I'll install a new radiator.

Any thoughts on removing that coupling from the radiator? Good idea, bad idea? This is to avoid having to install a new radiator. It's not the most terrible job around but I'd like to not do it if possible. I read on another forum that I probably need to be careful not to lose the internal plumbing for the trans line through the rad that the coupling syncs up with.

As always, I appreciate the feedback from y'all!
 

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Well it’s worth a try. What have you got to lose at this point?


2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This being a transmission fluid (no pressure, not too hot), you may always try to use some grey RTV to seal the coupling back in place. Careful with the radiator, it may crack at the upper fixations if it's being moved/tossed too much, it's quite fragile (brittle old plastic)
Yeah, I should have gone that route from the get-go...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well it’s worth a try. What have you got to lose at this point?


2002 V70XC, 2003 V40, 2004 S60, 2010 V70
Resurrecting this thread as I was finally able to find the time needed to complete the fix.

And success! At least for now, but hey, if I can eek out a couple more thousand miles I'll be stoked.

I was able to snag a donor coupling off of an S80 (and actually I grabbed the upper coupling for ease) from the junkyard. Was in and out in 20 minutes, and the dude classified it as a bolt so I got it for free.





It installed with no problem on my S60, it mated up fine with the internal piping and body of the radiator. Then I installed the new lower hose without issue as well, the rad side of the hose slid right into the new coupling.

I refilled with coolant and gave it a start. It actually started right up after sitting silent for more than three months. Nothing leaking from coupling at the rad, or from the coupling at the hose, or from the hose at the trans. Took it for a spin to shake the cobwebs out and still no leaks.

I haven't yet topped of the trans fluid that I've lost, both through this fix, and for the time that it was leaking. I can't seem to get an accurate read from the dipstick? Keeps indicating that it's in the cold range when it's cold and was in the middle after taking it for the spin and shifting through all gears. I'd say I've at least lost a quart.

Anyway, things seem okay for now and thought I'd share. I changed the oil on it too and it needs a good bath and is way overdue for it's annual state inspection.
 
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