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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

I recently bought a CPO 2016 S60 Inscription AWD. Test drive went fine, didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. The day after I got the car, I noticed a knocking sound at low speed. You can also feel it in the dead pedal when reversing, and moving forward at parking lot speeds (0-10mph) while turning the vehicle. This happens every time I drive. I took it to my mechanic and put it on a lift, where we couldn't repeat the issue. It only happens under load (which we could repeat when they drove the vehicle).

Any idea what it might be? I still have 2 years of Volvo warranty, and the dealer is going to be taking a look at it on Tuesday. Just wanted to see if anyone else had the problem.

Cheers.
 

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Could be sway bar links or your sway bar bushings
 

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If it were any other make of car, I would say CV joint. But since its a Volvo, I'm going with trans/motor mount.
 

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Since I have a similar problem I will say it’s your strut mounts. A very annoying clickety clack only audible at low speed turns in parking lots. Not audible when car is wet so moisture dulls noise.

Has anybody tried any lubricant type sprays which last/wear off slowly and can be easily sprayed into that area ?
My mechanic has informed me since it is not structurally unsafe to leave it alone till it’s time to do the struts. Living with it, music will also dull/ noise cancellation therapy. :)
 

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Hey all,

I recently bought a CPO 2016 S60 Inscription AWD.
How many miles on the car? On my 2012 S60 T6 the bearings (and struts) went bad at around 70K miles, which is similar to other Volvo models I have owned (7 total).
 

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I'm with Highwayman on this one. Strut mounts.
Me too. Mine made a similar sound. Replaced the upper strut mount bearing and the sound went away.
 

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I'm not going to guess at what your particular problem is but here is my guidance on diagnosis.

Strut bearings - As mentioned, more of a ticking or clicking noise and is generally most noticeable while actively turning the steering wheel (changing the steer angle), although hitting a bump while slow rolling with the wheels at a fixed angle can also cause a tick. Do not necessarily need to be rolling for it to happen, but it may make it more noticeable especially if car is on an incline or side slope causing more load at the bearings.

CV Joint - Loud clicking noise most noticeable when navigating parking lots, i.e. Low speed and extreme steer angles while rolling. Will not make noise unless you are rolling. Will continue to make noise at a fixed steering angle as long as you are rolling. This gets louder and louder with time as the CV joint continues to wear. Usually, but not always, caused by a torn CV boot. The grease flung everywhere inside your wheel is a good indicator you have a problem.

Sway bar end link - Knocking/clunking sound over uneven pavement. Usually noticeable even at speed. If you hit a speed bump with both wheels at the same time you usually will not hear the clunk. It is most noticeable when the left and right wheel are not seeing the same suspension input. e.g. hit a pot hole or bump with one wheel only, pulling into or out of driveway or parking lot. Usually independent of steering except that you can sometimes create the right conditions (uneven suspension inputs) while turning.
 

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I'm not going to guess at what your particular problem is but here is my guidance on diagnosis.

Strut bearings - As mentioned, more of a ticking or clicking noise and is generally most noticeable while actively turning the steering wheel (changing the steer angle), although hitting a bump while slow rolling with the wheels at a fixed angle can also cause a tick. Do not necessarily need to be rolling for it to happen, but it may make it more noticeable especially if car is on an incline or side slope causing more load at the bearings.

CV Joint - Loud clicking noise most noticeable when navigating parking lots, i.e. Low speed and extreme steer angles while rolling. Will not make noise unless you are rolling. Will continue to make noise at a fixed steering angle as long as you are rolling. This gets louder and louder with time as the CV joint continues to wear. Usually, but not always, caused by a torn CV boot. The grease flung everywhere inside your wheel is a good indicator you have a problem.

Sway bar end link - Knocking/clunking sound over uneven pavement. Usually noticeable even at speed. If you hit a speed bump with both wheels at the same time you usually will not hear the clunk. It is most noticeable when the left and right wheel are not seeing the same suspension input. e.g. hit a pot hole or bump with one wheel only, pulling into or out of driveway or parking lot. Usually independent of steering except that you can sometimes create the right conditions (uneven suspension inputs) while turning.
Well said.

I might add that a bad inner CV joint will sometimes make a rapid clicking noise when driving straight at freeway speeds.
 

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same here...strut Mounts too. I have to change them + the plastic silencer in between the spring and the strut bearing
 

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i had a clicking noise only when turning right at low speeds. dealer said they checked all joints and nothing looked worn out. they kept it for two days and they told me they used some type of listening device and found it was in my brakes. the adjusted the pads, lubed it up and now no noise. Hope it is as simple as that. took it in with 44k miles. 2016 s60
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
How many miles on the car? On my 2012 S60 T6 the bearings (and struts) went bad at around 70K miles, which is similar to other Volvo models I have owned (7 total).
I bought it with 34k. And funny enough, the solution was simple. Took it to the dealer and they pulled the steering and found no issue. Apparently the carpeting near the steering u-joint was rubbing, causing the problem. Trimmed the carpet and the problem is gone.

Thanks for all the replies, my account hadn't been fully activated, so I'm just getting back on.
 
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