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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just picked up 1999 V70R in Chicago.

Red 1999 V70R, 212k miles.

Carfax shows that car was originally sold in IL and no service history until 06/2010 and 124K. After that was serviced by Howard Orloff Imports, Inc. in Chicago until 08/2013, 147K and was sold to 2nd owner. There is a gap until 06/2016 150K some service was done and next on 11/2019 and 212K by 3rd owner, I assume to reprogram ETM.

The good: New ETM from XeMODeX (previous owner bought it from IPD 10/2019 and had a dealer reprogram it), interior is on decent shape no rips, no rust and tires and rims are OK, looks like it has a new Volvo battery.

Not so bad, I guess:
Paint looks good but some parts were repainted like rear bumper (paint is peeling off in couple areas) and perhaps rear door

The bad: Not sure yet as car starts and dies (rough idle), but runs fine above 2500 RPM,
I could not test drive it so no idea on suspension and AWD no spare tire, TB was done at 120K in 2009, also I see a very small leak under the engine and I suspect it could rear main seal. Maybe not.


Third owner (bought it in 09/2019 and never transferred the title) so I’m the fourth owner.

Plans:

Stage “0”
PCV
Timing and Serpentine Belts
Water pump
and on and on….

Work completed:
-PCV
-Serpentine Belt
-Parking brake shoes and cables
-Power-steering reservoir newer version upgrade
-Coolant reservoir
-Coolant Temp. Sensor
-Spark plugs
-Vacuum lines
-Oil change with new magnetic plug
-New air and oil filter
-Cabin filter
-Coolant Temp. Sensor
-Thermostat
-Engine coolant temp sensor
-OEM fuel pump



Looking to get some advice with this project. I’ve owned few Volvos in the past and my DD is 2016 XC60, so not new to Volvo’s and not afraid to tackle a project at my own garage.
Dropoff.jpg
 

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Good luck with it! Will be watching.

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Check the etm ground


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was this the one on craigslist where the seller stated it starts but then dies ?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
@silent-circuit and @Chicago_Wagon - Thank you


@ScottishBrick - I had reach out to XeMODeX and they pointed me in te same direction https://xemodex.com/us/knowledgebas...9-2004-volvo-c701999-2000-volvo-s70-v70-xc70/, but I think I may replace vacuum lines first and if there is no improvement in idle then it is my next step.


To start with:
Ordered red silicon vacuum lines from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/liquid-air-adapter/silicone-boost-vacuum-hose-p-593.html
Order PCV Kit , filters, gaskets, etc, from FCP . Hope all this will arrive before the weekend.
 

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These cars have minimal vacuum lines. TCV and brake booster circuit/pcv. A bad hose will cause fuel trim issues but not a failure to idle. Try unplugging the etm and seeing if anything changes. Also get yourself a ViDA/DiCE setup its as useful as a 10mm with working on these cars


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You can protect the injector wires with split loom. That's what Volvo used originally but whatever they spec'd turns to dust from the heat in that area after a few years.
 

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Nice score. Red V70Rs are crazy rare.

Once you figure out what is wrong, I would just do an engine out service, especially since you need a RMS. But even if you didn't you would save time since it sounds like you need to refresh everything. Makes like so much easier having it out. Seals are cheap once you're that far in so I'd just do them all. You'll also want to update the oil pickup and refresh the seals, so you don't spin a bearing going around a corner.

Also your ETM doesn't need to be programmed. That is a myth largely perpetuated by uninformed people who oppose technological advancement.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Nice score. Red V70Rs are crazy rare.

Once you figure out what is wrong, I would just do an engine out service, especially since you need a RMS. But even if you didn't you would save time since it sounds like you need to refresh everything. Makes like so much easier having it out. Seals are cheap once you're that far in so I'd just do them all. You'll also want to update the oil pickup and refresh the seals, so you don't spin a bearing going around a corner.

Also your ETM doesn't need to be programmed. That is a myth largely perpetuated by uninformed people who oppose technological advancement.
@JaredR Thanks, I'm still sorting things out as weather permits (getting cold in Chicago). I like your idea on removing engine but at the moment, I have limited space in my garage. At this moment I'm not 100% sure on RMS. I order PCV kit as a precaution as I can not validate "Glove test" since engine dies on idle and at the same time I will check ETM ground.

Can you elaborate little more on where I can get more info on "update the oil pickup and refresh the seals, so you don't spin a bearing going around a corner".
 

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Hey nice score!!! I’m glad someone is taking care of it since I could adopt it LOL

Can you elaborate little more on where I can get more info on "update the oil pickup and refresh the seals, so you don't spin a bearing going around a corner".
I can help with this. Idk how familiar you are with RN oiling systems, but there’s a revised pick up tube that you can use if/when you replace the oil pan o-rings. I did it on my RN swap into the 850, there might be pics & PN’s on that thread but it’s also not too hard to scrounge that stuff off FCP euro or Volvo parts webstore (my favorite location for diagrams when I don’t have VIDA).

This is the new style pick up and new o-rings installed on the RN motor in my 850:



I haven’t found many examples of loss of oil pressure on forums/facebook but the seals I replaced were defiantly deformed and the donor motor had relatively low miles (130k ish).


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I haven’t found many examples of loss of oil pressure on forums/facebook but the seals I replaced were defiantly deformed and the donor motor had relatively low miles (130k ish).
Most people don't corner hard enough to ever notice until things get real bad.


You need longer bolts for the updated pickup tube as well. I think I used water pump bolts on mine.
 

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Most people don't corner hard enough to ever notice until things get real bad.


You need longer bolts for the updated pickup tube as well. I think I used water pump bolts on mine.
The PN for those bolts is also water pump bolts


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Discussion Starter #17
@Zoinks, Thanks for the info , my priority is to get the engine running smooth and i will definitely revisit this idea,

So, I was at the local junkyard and was able to locate Relay Cooling Fan2 middle plug now it is time to solder wires together and plug it in. Yesterday, I did dry compression test on cold engine (Chicago temps 30F} and I believe i did it correctly (removed all spark plugs, removed Fuel Replay, pedal to the metal and for about 7 cranks) and reading was :
C1-95
C2-95
C3-95
C4-90
C5-100

Is doing cold engine compression correct way or should I try to worm up the engine and try again?
I'm still chasing rough idle and stalling issue, Will connect VIDA today to get some codes.
 

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Comp looks low. Try hot/wet?


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Discussion Starter #20
Question , what is the best way to reset all codes and start with clean slate? Disconnect battery for 15min, and turn the key to position II to drain power?


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