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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So ive spent about 12 hours of time trying to get the ipd boost gauge to work correctly. When I first got the gauge the electrical didn't work properly and after lucky sent me another lighting unit which Im very thankful he cared enough to do it no cost to me the lighting worked for a day or two. All of a sudden it didn't work properly and I ended up going out and getting all new wires and connectors which solved the problem for a while. Unfortunately once I rewired the electrical the boost went crazy and idle read only -5 with WOT runs registering 10 PSI only after about 5500 rpms with a rather unsmooth transition to that point. I figured that I must have installed the line incorrectly or not tight enough so I went out and got another compressor ring since the first one no longer fit around the end. Once I did that the boost read even more crazyness. After I fiddled around with the boost line the electrical went bad and would only come on when I pushed the throttle
. That lasted about 10 miles of drive time and now it comes on sporadically. I checked the connection and it appears to be ok but they arn't the best crimp over the electrical plug as I don't have the wire cutters with the tooth on the end.

Anyone have any advice on these problems. Im wired up to the 11 fuse underneath the dash and my ipod adapter running out of the cigarette lighter has no problems making me think its a connection problem but why would the throttle determine when power comes on?

Im soooo tired of playing with this thing and hooking my battery up and taking it off. Please help.

TIA
Jon
 

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Re: kinda getting sick of this boost gauge not working correctly (stormchasin_racin)

tell me about it. Mine kept registering at 10 also. Sometimes it wouldn't even pass 9 psi. In the end I took my damn gauge off until a solution is found.
 

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Re: kinda getting sick of this boost gauge not working correctly (stormchasin_racin)

Jon - regarding the electrical, it should be completely independent of what you do with the throttle (I'm sure you know this) - so I'm thinking it sounds like a loose connection or something. FWIW, I had to pull the LED cluster out of the gauge, and then pull the bulb itself from the electrical housing, and adjust the little metal contact (two tiny wires) coming out of the bulb. I found that if the little contact wires weren't perfectly lined up on the side of the bulb (not the long side of the glass), then the lighting wouldn't work. If you haven't already, you may try that. Another note, the connector prongs that you slide the quick-connects onto slide towards the bulb and out of place really easily. Once, I thought I had the quick connect on right, but in actuality, had only barely made a connection - but it looked like all was good because the prong slid in. May want to verify that those are all the way out (I pulled out gently with pliers, and when I slid the quick connects on, made sure to hold the bulb in place, which held the prongs in place). I wouldn't think its a fuse issue, as the fuse should either be good, or blown.

I used the fuse for the front fogs (there's two) so that I could choose to either turn the light for the boost gauge either on or off at will with the fog light switch (my personal compromise to splicing into the headlight wiring). I'm no electrician, so if someone thinks this is a bad idea for some reason, comments are appreciated.

Hope that helps.
Cheers - Mike.
 

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Re: kinda getting sick of this boost gauge not working correctly (stormchasin_racin)

Quote, originally posted by stormchasin_racin »
So ive spent about 12 hours of time trying to get the ipd boost gauge to work correctly.

Not a very good endorsement of the IPD gauge. I have one on the way and I'm wondering if I should even take it out of the box

Hope your experience is an isolated case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think its more operator error than the ipd gauge. I have my issues but im not going to air them out here. Lucky was very helpful and sent me a new backlight free of charge. I would have taken the gauge to a shop to do it but the first couple of places I took it too said they didn't want to touch the car (i dont blame them) so i just did it myself.

My words of advice would be to take you time routing the boost hose as it is very prone to crinking and being tied in the spindle has given the line a frustrating memory that doesn't want to go straight. Most of my hours spent are trying to figure out what was wrong with wiring which initially was me tapping into all the hot fuses on the drivers side fuse box (ipd video says to use that box but it appartently doesn't apply to the R models)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: kinda getting sick of this boost gauge not working correctly (michaelc)

ya i freaked out the first time I pushed the connector onto the prongs and they disapeared. Are you saying they dont make a connection unless they are completey extended?
 

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for routing the hose, i took an electrical wire and put it inside the hose, i didnt have any problems with the hose or gauge
 

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Re: (s140s)

Quote, originally posted by s140s »
for routing the hose, i took an electrical wire and put it inside the hose, i didnt have any problems with the hose or gauge

Now THAT was a great idea. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

Quote, originally posted by stormchasin_racin »
Are you saying they dont make a connection unless they are completey extended?

Can't totally answer that, as I pulled them back out. What I was talking about was the little wires (x2) that come off the bulb....I had to be sure they were sticking up the sides so they made good electrical contact. Looking at the "socket" it seemed like they should work regardless of orientation (plenty of metal contact in there), but didn't seem to be the case.
 

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Re: (michaelc)

Check your fuses. I tried that side box, and it's always hot. I used the fuse box under the steering wheel. Pick up a cheap test light ($3), it'll help a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks, im using the number 11 fuse under the drivers dash which is the cigarette lighter. I went out and purchased a fuse tap at autozone for 4 bucks and have a 10 amp fuse running on top of the 15 amp stock fuse. I know they are running fine cause my ipod adapter runs off the cigarette lighter and it works fine.

How fluid is your boost as it builds. mine is kinda jumpy and when it was reading normally wouldn't hit 14 psi until much later than from what I would expect.
 

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Re: (stormchasin_racin)

My boost builds really smoothly, actually. I was impressed with the responsiveness and accuracy of the gauge (once I got everything operating correctly). I hit max boost (right around 14-15 psi) at WOT in third gear and up (occasionally in second, as well). Most of the time during idle/driving without acceleration I'm showing a vacuum of about 18 - 20 inches of mercury or slightly less under some load.

Regarding your jumpy boost, does the boost feel jumpy as well, or just reading jumpy on the gauge? If you feel it too, is it TCV replacement time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: (michaelc)

boost feels fine on the car and it has the ipd HDTCV with no problems experienced there. Im wonding if I should re do the hosing just to make sure. Wonder where I can get the proper supplies?
 

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Re: (stormchasin_racin)

One thing you could try before buying and running new tubing (what I did): detach the end of the tubing at the intake manifold and blow into it...you should be able to induce about 2 psi on the gauge...and hold it, until you pass out of course. I guess there could be a weak spot in the tubing (created by a kink on installation) that would collapse under higher vacuums, or a hole that would leak excessively under higher pressures, and therefore show as non-linear change on the gauge.

I couldn't get my gauge to read anything initially. Turns out the pinhole on the brass fitting at the back of the gauge was obstructed. I cleared that with a thumbtack, and all seems good to go now. Maybe check to be sure that pinhole is clear?
 

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Re: (stormchasin_racin)

Quote, originally posted by stormchasin_racin »
How fluid is your boost as it builds. mine is kinda jumpy and when it was reading normally wouldn't hit 14 psi until much later than from what I would expect.

The air "pulses" coming out of the turbo, so the needle on an analog gauge will be "jumpy" unless you stuff the end of a q-tip into the line or use some other remedy to smooth it out. The VW guys use either the q-tip method or a valve that smooths things out.

I recommend the q-tip--it's worked about three years for me!

Modified by Edogg218 at 9:51 PM 6-19-2009
 

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A tad OT, MichealC what did you do for mounting?
 

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Re: (850arrrsaylikepirate)

I have a mechanical gauge, and it works beautifully, no jumping at all. If you are worried about the tubing, why not test it out?
Run a new tube from your boost line, then go out through the fender, and up through the open window. If you get a better reading, then your line is kinked somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
thanks everyone. I think im going to try to look at the tubing end to end and see if it kinked. I dont remember it kinking when I routed it but it was a hassle to get it to go straight and maybe got kinked.
 

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Re: (850arrrsaylikepirate)

Quote, originally posted by 850arrrsaylikepirate »
A tad OT, MichealC what did you do for mounting?

I used the IPD gauge pod. At first, before I ordered it I wasn't sure how I felt about the look/location. Once installed, I really like the location and the look is fine (much better on an R dash than the pic they have on their site).
 

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Re: (michaelc)

Quote, originally posted by michaelc »


I used the IPD gauge pod. At first, before I ordered it I wasn't sure how I felt about the look/location. Once installed, I really like the location and the look is fine (much better on an R dash than the pic they have on their site).

Sweet, I have to see it sometime.
 
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