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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys! So I'm going up to the Dragon this weekend, and I found out at autoX last weekend that Canopus wheels are super awesome for keeping hot air around your brakes. After a couple runs, the wheels were hot enough that you could barely touch them. So I'm wondering if there is anything I can to do get some extra air back there? I thought of doing the whole brake duct setup, but after looking at the area between my wheel well and foglight covers/grills, it didn't look like there was much room to add anything.

Will taking off those covers, because I don't have fog lights anyways, be enough to help?
A few weekends ago, during a night run on the Dragon the brakes on my boyfriend's wagon started to overheat, and that was with slotted rotors and racing pads. And wheels that are very open. So I'm a little worried.


Thanks in advance for any help! :)
 

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Not to ask a silly question but how olds the fuild and what type of fuild are you using?


Sometimes putting a small deflector blade on the control are is enough to get enough air flow to make a decent differance. Running piping on fwd cars can be interesting...


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Hey guys! So I'm going up to the Dragon this weekend, and I found out at autoX last weekend that Canopus wheels are super awesome for keeping hot air around your brakes. After a couple runs, the wheels were hot enough that you could barely touch them. So I'm wondering if there is anything I can to do get some extra air back there? I thought of doing the whole brake duct setup, but after looking at the area between my wheel well and foglight covers/grills, it didn't look like there was much room to add anything.

Will taking off those covers, because I don't have fog lights anyways, be enough to help?
A few weekends ago, during a night run on the Dragon the brakes on my boyfriend's wagon started to overheat, and that was with slotted rotors and racing pads. And wheels that are very open. So I'm a little worried.


Thanks in advance for any help! :)
i assume you are talking about the s40...so what i have done for some guys that may or may not have helped was to put a few vent slits in the back of the wheel well behind the bumper. then dremelled out the fodlight covers to allow some airflow. this seems to help a little but there is so much in the way back there, it's not a huge improvement.

as someone that has been on the dragon a few times, the best thing to save brakes is not to use them as much...change your driving style to carry more corner speed instead of hard accel and hard braking at the end. I have a C30 and was one of the fastest guys out there this last april and my brakes were literally 100 degrees cooler than the next lowest guy. I also have had a 2014 S60 T5 out there running with the best of em and the brakes never faded for the same reason...more corner speed and less braking coming into the corner. sometimes that means you will back off a little down the straight but it'll give you much better entry into the corner and will keep up with the rest of the pack.

I assume you are going with MNIWT and gerrit (belgium) stick with those guys and they will show you the ropes on driving the dragon properly.
 

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Not to ask a silly question but how olds the fuild and what type of fuild are you using?


Sometimes putting a small deflector blade on the control are is enough to get enough air flow to make a decent differance. Running piping on fwd cars can be interesting...


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+1 Fresh fluid is your number one priority going to any track event. No need to go to high dollar specialized stuff. ATE 200 would be a reasonable choice.
 

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Based on what I can find about ate 200, your better spending the $7 a bottle at tire rack and getting the stoptech stuff. It's got a much higher dry boiling point.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brak...Num=ST501.00002&brand=StopTech&cat=BrakeFluid

Fluid will typically last 1 year for decent stuff, the fuild is considered wet when it's 3% water.

You can tell if it's your pads that are over heated by when you press the pedal the pedal is still hard but you don't slow down.

If your fuilds over heated (boiled) you loose your pedal and you can just press it further and further. Once you have boiled your fluid you need to replace it. If you can press your pedal and it's soft then hard again you have air in your lines - if you have air in your lines you will feel the effects of hot fluid much earlier as the air will expand and make the pedal increasingly softer as you get more and more heat, even tho the fuild is not over heated.


You should so be doing a complete flush of the fluid in your braking system when you do a brake fluid change not just a top up if your using them hard.
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Slotted/Drilled rotors do help in these conditions, as do stainless steel lines. But the most helpful upgrade I made, which left me with 0 fade on some of the hardest runs, was upgrading to fluid to ATE super blue racing fluid and HAWK pads.

I assume you are going with MNIWT and gerrit (belgium) stick with those guys and they will show you the ropes on driving the dragon properly.
Don't even try to keep up with Gerrit... Even if you have a K16, you can't match the balls that guy has...

Just out of curiosity, what size fronts do you have on your 2.4i? I have the stock 300s which will soon be ready to sell if you're interested.
 

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Slotted/Drilled rotors do help in these conditions, as do stainless steel lines. But the most helpful upgrade I made, which left me with 0 fade on some of the hardest runs, was upgrading to fluid to ATE super blue racing fluid and HAWK pads.


Don't even try to keep up with Gerrit... Even if you have a K16, you can't match the balls that guy has...

Just out of curiosity, what size fronts do you have on your 2.4i? I have the stock 300s which will soon be ready to sell if you're interested.
Quick note: Super Blue is no longer available. The DOT had an issue with the color. However, ATE 200 is exactly the same formulation save the color.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys for all the responses!! It looks like I'll be upgrading my brake fluid this week. I'll try the vents in the wheel wells and remove the fog light covers too, every little bit helps I guess :)
And honestly, I don't know how old the fluid is, so it probably is a good time to do this anyways, and not expensive either! :thumbs up:

Don't even try to keep up with Gerrit... Even if you have a K16, you can't match the balls that guy has...

Just out of curiosity, what size fronts do you have on your 2.4i? I have the stock 300s which will soon be ready to sell if you're interested.

I'm going to have to stay away from the fast people, or else my involuntary competitive side will come out and that won't be good. I'm excited though, I've been on the Dragon a few times now, but I only drove twice, and that was in my boyfriends turbo 740, which was a little freaky only because I'm not used to boost. So it will be nice to be in something slow :p

But I believe they are the 300's, but I'll have to pass on that for now, haha there's too much going on this month :p
 

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Here's how I opened up the fog grilles on my S40:



Will you be joining our group for the whole day, or just that evening?
You're more than welcome to ride along in my car for a short spring. It's a bit different than Calvin's ;)
Just not for too long, seeing as I only have 2 seats and my wife won't want to be left behind for an extended period of time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I don't have fog lights haha, so if I have the time, I'll probably do that to either the inside or outside half of mine. I wish I could have gotten a light bar, goodness my lights are terrible. Terrible, terrible. A dollar store flashlight would probably provide more light.
untitled-11 by MacKeever Coates, on Flickr

And I believe the TB group is going to the waterfalls in the morning, and then splitting up to do whatever for the rest of the day. So I know Derrick and I are going to stop by the Ruby Mine we passed the other weekend, so depending on the time we are finished there we might make lunch with you guys. Unless we meet up with you guys for dragon runs and lunch, and then go to the Ruby Mine. But I will definitely be joining up for the group shot :) and I'm sure a lot of us will be up there for night runs too.
 

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Want my light bar? I have another project in mind and it may be up for sale soon. I'll include the recycled brackets for the S40 bumper too. I don't have the wiring though...



Just trying to get rid of stuff, haha.
 

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I forgot to remove the fog light covers and even with motul rb600 I managed boil the fluid. The pedal is basically to the floor board. I'll look at working some angled boards to attach to the control arms to work as a deflector and open the fog lights covers on a second set of covers.

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A good brake fluid, SS lines, upgraded brakes and rotors, boom you're done!
 

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Pads and discs where fine. Was running rb600 so not much better than that.

There just wasn't enough airflow over the caliper to dissipate the heat. The braking system gets worked at Hampton Downs, turn 1 your going from 180/190 kph to 85-100kph, I'm typically braking from 100m or so out from the corner then a short straight up to about 150ish then down to about 60kph, it's a shortish course so there isn't a great deal of time to cool the brakes. I also was trail braking a bit to help control the car also.

Have a look at the on-board in my thread.

Laps are typically 1:26-27 for me.



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