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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed my Kaplehenke S60/R and V70/R camber plates a few weekends ago, and documented the process.

http://www.kaplhenke.com/collection...0-s80/products/fwd-awd-adjustable-strut-mount

Keep in mind I'm also converting to 2.5" ID linear springs. You're going to want to buy 10" springs for a mild drop, and 8" springs for race/slam. I went with 550# springs, for mixed road and racing. In hindsight, I should have gone with 700# and just sucked it up as far as road harshness. 550 is firm, but not back-breaking. Keep in mind that without a helper spring, the springs will not snug up to the spring perch when both front wheels are completely unloaded (ie. on a lift). This can be fixed with the addition of a "helper spring".

If you don't convert to a 2.5" ID spring, the outside diameter of the OEM design progressive spring will be the limiting factor on how much camber you can get out of these plates. The spring will hit the side of the strut tower, and not let you turn in any more camber. With 2.5" springs, the OD of the spring is well away from the wall of the strut tower.

Initial impression: These things are gorgeous. Excellent craftsmanship. Great design given the small space we have to work with in our strut towers, as well as the curvatures of the strut towers.

Instructions:

1. Open up your box. Your contents should be as follows (top to bottom):
-Camber plate-to-strut tower bolts & nuts
-Mushroom washers (left)
-strut spacer (right)
-Camber plates, 2.5" ID spring seats




2. Pull your old strut out. There's tons of guides on how to do this. I'm using KW's so I can run a 2.5" spring (KW's come with a 2.5" bottom spring perch), so I will be referencing them throughout this guide. The OEM strut design isn't much different.

3. Take the OEM spring perches off of your springs. COMPRESS YOUR SPRINGS WHILE YOU DO THIS. The spring seat is under lots of pressure. Remove the OEM spring.



KW spring vs Eibach:


4. Insert the mushroom washer into the BOTTOM of the camber plate spherical bearing. If you insert this washer through the top, the strut bearing will not work, and when you turn, you will be fighting the spring, along with an aweful grinding/popping noise.




5. Add the spacer to the end of your strut. This allows the camber plate to sit at the correct height in relation to the strut, since the camber plates are a much lower profile than the OEM bearing+spring seat sandwich.



6. Adjust the camber plates to the desired camber. There are two holes in the top slot: use the red set of holes for higher degrees of camber, and the yellow set of holes (currently has the bolts in it) for lower degrees of camber. The bottom slot only has one set of holes. This is designed as such so you can get the most camber, without running into/under the edge of the strut tower hole. Let whoever does your alignment know this.



7. Put the spring on, followed by the camber plate. Use the not-the-cross nut to nut your camber plate on



8. Put the coilover assembly back in the car.



9. Put the through-bolts in from the bottom, nuts on the top. They won't hit your hood, don't worry.



10. At this point, you may need to make some small notches to get a wrench in the adjustment Torx bolts. This is up to you. In hindsight, I may not have needed to do this. If you're going for max camber, you may need to.



11. Tighten down all bolts. The OEM strut bearing bolts call for a torque spec of 20 ft-lbs. However, this is so you don't pull the studs through the bearing. On the camber plates, you should be able to torque them to a higher number, since they are through-bolts.

12. GET AN ALIGNMENT!

Final impression:
How did I ever live without these? ALL clicking, clunking, etc is gone from the front. The car handles a million times better with the camber. No increased road noise.
The price may worry some, but if you look at camber plates for other cars, they're the same price, maybe more.

Enjoy!


Some finished pictures with full camber:





 

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These are on my wishlist. It's a shame they're shoved into the wheel well and not on display they're so pretty.

Nice writeup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update: After the first autocross, this is the best the car has EVER handled. There is next to no understeer, except when induced by power (a Hilton tune and some more power should sort that out). The car rotates perfectly, and has just the right slip angle. Camber does wonders. I imagine the harder spring rate has a bit to do with it as well, since less body roll in the front means more grip in the front, which means less relative grip in the rear. A must-have if you want your car to handle well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
What are you running for sways?
25mm front 28mm rear, makes things a little stiff ;)

Bad lighting, but the rear wheel is completely off the ground. Kaplhenke delrin subframe bushings help that as well.

 

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