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Discussion Starter · #1 ·


I just purchased everything but bushings for my suspension (already replaced control arms) I'm going to try the FWD coilovers on the AWD and see how the performance is with a reasonable ride height. Wish me luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I also bought this stuff.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
 

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Hi quadcamsix,

What is a reasonable height?

Good luck with the install
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am looking for a 1" to 1.5" gap in the rear. That should put me right at the end of the FWD rear strut adjustment range and right in the middle of the travel. Fingers crossed that I dont have to cut the lower strut bushing width too much. I am actually hopeful that I can use a slightly longer bolt to mount the bottom portion of the strut.
 

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i would thnk you should be able to get down to that gap with removing the rear perches but not sure the struts will allow it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i would thnk you should be able to get down to that gap with removing the rear perches but not sure the struts will allow it.
We shall see. There are two issues, the longer strut body and also a wider lower mounting at the A arm for FWD vs AWD. I have already disassembled the interior of the V50 and there is more than enough room for the tower to be modified. Volvo must have shortened the strut for the S40 because they could have easily moved the mount point up in the V50 without interfearing with the seat belt mount. My fi gers are crossed that I will not need to modify the tower. Im not a fan of cutting or welding. metal inside the cabin.
 

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I just purchased everything but bushings for my suspension (already replaced control arms) I'm going to try the FWD coilovers on the AWD and see how the performance is with a reasonable ride height. Wish me luck.
Are the rear shocks height adjustable? I guess it looks like they are....sort of a weird way to do it I guess. Did you ever find out the rear spring rate?

Good move picking up the remote adjusters- you can snake them through into the trunk.

You'll need to trim down the rear shock bushing to fit the knuckle and enlarge the hole in the upper shock mount for your remote adjusters to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Also confirmed with Megan Racing. I will possibly bind a coil or try the rubber block trick to increase the rear rate.

APPLICATION:
Volvo S40 2005-11 FWD Only

SPRING RATES:
F: 62mm ID; 170mm length; 7 kg/mm
R: 190mm length; 5 kg/mm

DAMPER SPECS:
F: 110mm stroke; 230mm length
R: 130mm stroke; 250mm length

- 32 Levels of Damper Force Adjustment

- Rubber Dust Boots

- Adjustable Ride Height



- Aggressive Spring Rates

- Single-Cylinder Design

- Aluminum Bracketsup,
 

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Gah. That sucks. Looks like all the coilover manufacturers are using the same rear spring.... :(

LOL @ "aggressive spring rates"...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, I am planning to corner weght the car so ill pick up some spring boosters to modify the rates. Killing one coil should be more than enough. Even autozone sells coil boosters now.
 

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Can you take pics of what your grind down and mod? If this works you'll be pioneering some popular mods on here lol good luck with the install let is know how it goes.


"Embody god... Then go crazy"
 

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Can you take pics of what your grind down and mod? If this works you'll be pioneering some popular mods on here lol good luck with the install let is know how it goes.
Already done, see the BC Racing coilover thread.

Take your favorite grinding tool, reduce the overall length of the lower shock bushing until it fits in the knuckle.
 

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Already done, see the BC Racing coilover thread.

Take your favorite grinding tool, reduce the overall length of the lower shock bushing until it fits in the knuckle.
I stand corrected! I know you did this first I guess I meant with a cheaper kit. And as for the pics I was interested in some of the actually parts that are to be grinded down, I won't be doing the work as I'll have a shop do it and I like them to be able to see exactly what needs to be done you know?


"Embody god... Then go crazy"
 

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I stand corrected! I know you did this first I guess I meant with a cheaper kit. And as for the pics I was interested in some of the actually parts that are to be grinded down, I won't be doing the work as I'll have a shop do it and I like them to be able to see exactly what needs to be done you know?
Not sure how Megans are any cheaper....2 sec on google and the best price I found was $899. I paid $925 for my BCs...

The lower shock mount, i.e. the round ball thing that a bolt goes through @ the base of the shock...
 

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Not sure how Megans are any cheaper....2 sec on google and the best price I found was $899. I paid $925 for my BCs...

The lower shock mount, i.e. the round ball thing that a bolt goes through @ the base of the shock...
I think I looked up the wrong one then, and I understand what section but I can already hear my mechanic asking if there's pics just for reference.




"Embody god... Then go crazy"
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Not sure how Megans are any cheaper....2 sec on google and the best price I found was $899. I paid $925 for my BCs...

The lower shock mount, i.e. the round ball thing that a bolt goes through @ the base of the shock...
I paid about what you would for springs, really good struts plus a camber kit. Lets just say I purchased them for a good bit less than list from a rep. Ill post the price if all goes well. Ill measure the ammount that needs to be trimmed down and post the size that the bolt hole needs to be drilled out to.
 

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I paid about what you would for springs, really good struts plus a camber kit. Lets just say I purchased them for a good bit less than list from a rep. Ill post the price if all goes well. Ill measure the ammount that needs to be trimmed down and post the size that the bolt hole needs to be drilled out to.
I didn't have to drill anything, other than the upper hole so the remote adjuster could fit.

I think I looked up the wrong one then, and I understand what section but I can already hear my mechanic asking if there's pics just for reference.
It's totally self-explanatory when you get in there...sounds like you need a better mechanic.

 

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i wasnt following what you guys meant lol, but im no mechanic. So those circled bushings are too wide to fit into the mount? okay well, that pictures makes it clear what you meant.
 

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I didn't have to drill anything, other than the upper hole so the remote adjuster could fit.



It's totally self-explanatory when you get in there...sounds like you need a better mechanic.

No see this hole time I was picture shaving down the very bottom off the shock not on the sides but I get it now does seem very easy.




"Embody god... Then go crazy"
 
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