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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am new to this forum and i have joined because i just bought a 2011 Volvo C30 R-Design in Orange Flame Metallic. I have loved this car for years but until now have not made enough to afford one. I just recently got a Job at a
Specialty Pharmacy. The car i currently own is a 2002 Subaru Legacy GT Limited. It has 137k miles on it. My new job is 50 miles away. I want a more comfortable, reliable and safer car to sit in for 2 hours of crawling at 1 mph down the highway during rush hour. I don't have the car yet but i am picking it up This Saturday. This week is really dragging because i am so excited to get my Car.

At some point down the road i plan on getting the Polestar software upgrade. I found a good deal on it for around $900 at my local Volvo dealership. Iv researched the polestar a bunch but i was curious if you guys think its worth it to get the polestar upgrade?

Anyway here as some photos of my new car.
20151010_161105 by Alex Littig, on Flickr
20151010_161130 by Alex Littig, on Flickr
20151010_161138 by Alex Littig, on Flickr
 

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Congrats on the purchase! Great color. You'll find Volvo seats are THE BEST for sitting in traffic!! I'm trying to convince my wife to get rid of her 2012 Mini for one of these. Is the car a stick?

As for the Polestar tune, I have it on my XC70 and love it!! It's well worth the money!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Congrats on the purchase! Great color. You'll find Volvo seats are THE BEST for sitting in traffic!! I'm trying to convince my wife to get rid of her 2012 Mini for one of these. Is the car a stick?

As for the Polestar tune, I have it on my XC70 and love it!! It's well worth the money!
this is an auto. I never learned how to drive stick. Iv only been driving for about 2 years now even though im 23 years old. maybe in a few years once im more experienced with driving ill learn stick. I would love to drive stick if i knew how :)
 

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P* is good if you plan on keeping it mostly stock. But ~$600 you can get yourself an Elevate or Shark tune that will give you more power (will also void the warranty, but you can put it back to stock before taking it into the shop) and will also optimize the car for performance parts. P* is only good with the stock setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
P* is good if you plan on keeping it mostly stock. But ~$600 you can get yourself an Elevate or Shark tune that will give you more power (will also void the warranty, but you can put it back to stock before taking it into the shop) and will also optimize the car for performance parts. P* is only good with the stock setup.
Yes i just plan on keeping the car stock. 0-60 in under 6 seconds with the polestar tune is good enough for me. The only thing i might due some next summer is new rims and getting the windows tinted slightly to give the car an even sleeker look
 

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There is nothing wrong with the Polestar tune if you want to add other "mild" mods to the car. If you want to go nuts with a build, then yes...I'd go with a different adjustable tune setup. Keep in mind, the dealer can tell if you flash a car and may give you a hard time if they see you tried to cover your tracks. Polestar is "volvo approved", so that may help alleviate any arguments with a dealer. However, I don't think this matters if the car is out of warranty (as this one likely is), so it may be a moot point.

Most importantly...enjoy the car with whatever tune you go with!!!
 

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Yes i just plan on keeping the car stock. 0-60 in under 6 seconds with the polestar tune is good enough for me. The only thing i might due some next summer is new rims and getting the windows tinted slightly to give the car an even sleeker look
Definitely go with P* then. Especially if you can get it for $900, that's a steal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There is nothing wrong with the Polestar tune if you want to add other "mild" mods to the car. If you want to go nuts with a build, then yes...I'd go with a different adjustable tune setup. Keep in mind, the dealer can tell if you flash a car and may give you a hard time if they see you tried to cover your tracks. Polestar is "volvo approved", so that may help alleviate any arguments with a dealer. However, I don't think this matters if the car is out of warranty (as this one likely is), so it may be a moot point.

Most importantly...enjoy the car with whatever tune you go with!!!
I still have 8 months of factory warranty left. Thats good because we found 1 small issue with the car. The rear break lights have condensation build up inside the housing on the clear plastic. No idea why its like that. its on both sides. after i get the car im going to take it to volvo and have then look at it under warranty. could just be because it sat on the lot for 120 days
 

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Orange Flame Metallic, very cool. :thumbup:

Polestar update, YES. :cool:

Want to learn how to drive a stick? Do what I did for my kids...buy a manual 80s Volvo 240. The clutch of the 240s are easy to learn on. When you transition to the newer P1s, some of those clutches could be a tad touchy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i have seen in c30 polestar reviews that torque steer is bad. iv never experienced torque steer before. is it so bad that i wont be able to control where the steering wheel goes if i floor it or is it just a tugging feeling in the steering wheel left or right but yet still able to have control?
 

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Even stock these cars have torque steer, that's what you get from a FWD performance car.

It's not like you can't control the car, it just feels like you're driving on a bit of banking and the car wants to pull to the right a bit. A moderately firm grip on the wheel will keep you straight though.

I'm putting out over 270whp with 330ftlbs of torque at the wheels, torque steer is present but not bad. P* will get you to about 220-230whp, so torque steer won't be too crazy.
 

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It's not that bad, but you'll notice it. Keep a good grip on the wheel when you floor it...problem solved. The Polestar tune will make this more evident, but not uncontrollable.

That's great you have a warranty left!!! Definitely have them go over the issues you have with the car, but Volvo won't do an "inspection" of the car for warranty-related issues so be careful what you bring it in for (ie: tail lights vs. "can you tell me if anything is wrong").
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Even stock these cars have torque steer, that's what you get from a FWD performance car.

It's not like you can't control the car, it just feels like you're driving on a bit of banking and the car wants to pull to the right a bit. A moderately firm grip on the wheel will keep you straight though.

I'm putting out over 270whp with 330ftlbs of torque at the wheels, torque steer is present but not bad. P* will get you to about 220-230whp, so torque steer won't be too crazy.

what all would i need to get done to step up to that level of power and if you floor it from a stop do you get tire spin?

i punched a stock c30 but i did not floor it and acceleration was already double that of my current car a 2002 Subaru legacy gt with only 165 hp.

My legacy is a joke when it comes to preformance. Talk about hesitation when you floor it, at least a half second to second delay and its even worse when going say 30 and floor it. it goes right away but not full power but like light normal accelerating, does this for 2 seconds or so then finds the next gear then kinda takes off just slowly lol. it hard to explain. its like it needs to think about what gear to be in but its a fairly old car with 137k miles on it so i guess its not that surprising. i timed 0-60 at 10.8 seconds lol
 

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With an auto, there is a torque limiter in 1st and 2nd gear to save the transmission from unnecessary wear. No torque limiter with manual.
My S40 was auto (same engine, chassis, etc. as the C30), putting out about 250 to the wheels, that would spin in 1st gear if the conditions were right.
With my C30, I can spin the wheels with new summer tires, all the way through 3rd gear.

Turn traction control off, you'll notice the car is a bit peppier off the line when it's not being bogged down by the full DSTC system. Use the scroll wheel on the turn signal stalk until the screen display between the gauges reads "DSTC ON." Press and hold the reset button on the turn signal stalk and that will turn spin traction control off. It's still partially on to aid you in driving, but you can freely spin the wheels if you're able to get them to break loose.
Also try driving in manual mode. The geartronic transmission will learn your driving style and will start shifting higher or lower in the RPM range based on how you like to drive. But I always drove my S40 in manual mode because I enjoyed the control. It was also a great learning experience about when to up shift and downshift to always be at peak power.

P* will not get you to the same power level that I'm at. You'll need a custom Elevate or Shark tune, paired with all the bolt on parts. My build thread is in my signature below, the first post is a list of all the go-fast parts that I have. My S40 build thread might be a bit more appealed since your car is also a GT (geartronic). While all of the parts on my M66 (manual 6 speed) C30 would show noticeable improvement on a GT, some of them would not make that big a difference due to the torque limiter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
With an auto, there is a torque limiter in 1st and 2nd gear to save the transmission from unnecessary wear. No torque limiter with manual.
My S40 was auto (same engine, chassis, etc. as the C30), putting out about 250 to the wheels, that would spin in 1st gear if the conditions were right.
With my C30, I can spin the wheels with new summer tires, all the way through 3rd gear.

Turn traction control off, you'll notice the car is a bit peppier off the line when it's not being bogged down by the full DSTC system. Use the scroll wheel on the turn signal stalk until the screen display between the gauges reads "DSTC ON." Press and hold the reset button on the turn signal stalk and that will turn spin traction control off. It's still partially on to aid you in driving, but you can freely spin the wheels if you're able to get them to break loose.
Also try driving in manual mode. The geartronic transmission will learn your driving style and will start shifting higher or lower in the RPM range based on how you like to drive. But I always drove my S40 in manual mode because I enjoyed the control. It was also a great learning experience about when to up shift and downshift to always be at peak power.

P* will not get you to the same power level that I'm at. You'll need a custom Elevate or Shark tune, paired with all the bolt on parts. My build thread is in my signature below, the first post is a list of all the go-fast parts that I have. My S40 build thread might be a bit more appealed since your car is also a GT (geartronic). While all of the parts on my M66 (manual 6 speed) C30 would show noticeable improvement on a GT, some of them would not make that big a difference due to the torque limiter.
Wow so much info thank you. I had no idea about the torque limiter. Does this mean my car wont do 0-60 in just under 6 seconds with the P tune because i have an auto? If thats with just the manual what would the auto be. I could have swarn i read somewhere the auto does 0-60 faster then the manual but that info could be wrong
 

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With the "old" technology of these cars, manual will always beat auto by about half a second.

My fully tuned S40 was still slower to 60mph than a stock M66. But don't let that scare you away! These cars are not meant for drag racing.

Even with where my C30 is at now, the best 0-60 I've managed has been 5.9 seconds. I know many tuners will claim better numbers, and that probably is true. But with real world physics, a full tank of gas, and my 190lbs butt behind the wheel, I'm still flirting with the 6 second mark. Though, considering some of the cars I have raced and beaten (and I know their claimed 0-60 is sub 6) it makes you question what direction the wind was blowing when the manufactures recorded their numbers.

It's the highway pulls that really make these cars shine though. I beat a 2015 5.0 mustang from 60-100, by 110 he took the lead, but he couldn't believe I held him off that long. We went at it again with the same result. These cars can keep up with just about anything once you're pulling in 3rd gear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
With the "old" technology of these cars, manual will always beat auto by about half a second.

My fully tuned S40 was still slower to 60mph than a stock M66. But don't let that scare you away! These cars are not meant for drag racing.

Even with where my C30 is at now, the best 0-60 I've managed has been 5.9 seconds. I know many tuners will claim better numbers, and that probably is true. But with real world physics, a full tank of gas, and my 190lbs butt behind the wheel, I'm still flirting with the 6 second mark. Though, considering some of the cars I have raced and beaten (and I know their claimed 0-60 is sub 6) it makes you question what direction the wind was blowing when the manufactures recorded their numbers.

It's the highway pulls that really make these cars shine though. I beat a 2015 5.0 mustang from 60-100, by 110 he took the lead, but he couldn't believe I held him off that long. We went at it again with the same result. These cars can keep up with just about anything once you're pulling in 3rd gear.

Thats amazing. my Subaru even though it has some hesitation when you floor it has some decent torque from 0- 40 mph but after that its horrible. i tried flooring at 65pmh and took me a good 10 seconds to hot 85mph. but sometimes if i floor it from a stop it will throw me into the back of my seat but its kinda hit and miss. sometimes it accelerates way faster then i expect and other times it like omg go you stupid car especially up a hill. the reason im getting rid of it is due to the smell i get in the cabin even with a little acceleration i get a rotten egg type of smell in the cabin. its been getting more frequent and now that i went from a 16 mile drive per day to get to work to 100 miles it was time for an upgrade and i think the c30 will more then suffice :)
 

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I still have 8 months of factory warranty left. Thats good because we found 1 small issue with the car. The rear break lights have condensation build up inside the housing on the clear plastic. No idea why its like that. its on both sides. after i get the car im going to take it to volvo and have then look at it under warranty. could just be because it sat on the lot for 120 days
Have you had this inspected by a mechanic? Condensation in the taillights is only because they arent sealed in some way. Sometimes this is from an accident, and a cheap body shop, sometimes its from a manufacturing defect. Since your buying off a used lot, I seriously suggest you take it for a pre purchase inspection. Some Volvo dealers will do it, its well worth the cost.
 
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