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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Purpose: To experiment with fitment and use of Ford Focus RS parts installed on 2.5l T5 engine for comprehensive and affordable performance gains.

Over the last few weeks, I have been obsessing over performance upgrades for our Volvos that could had for cheap. I combed the forum for as much information as possible for the cheapest and best options and collected as much data as possible to make my decision. I also wanted to take the plunge and actually try something new to share with the community that has helped me so much, contribute to the forum and solidify myself as a member.

**If someone has already installed an RS ic than I missed it and apologize**

The T5 engine, in my experience, has been easy to work on and modify with the exception for two things, limited options for upgrades and cost. While a P1 car can be purchased for relatively cheap, the performance parts are as expensive as what you would expect for the higher end tuner cars, with the return in horsepower failing in comparison without a larger turbo. That being said I have set out to find the cheapest options for upgrades and still feel a difference. The main areas I focused on was intake, charge pipe and intercooler, as these seem to be the most common upgrades, and I sold the ones I had on my car and still had the tune for them .
RS Intercooler Install

Materials Used/Cost
RS Intercooler (P/N G1FY6K775RC)($150)
•Mounting brackets ($1.78/ea) x2
•Screws, washers and nuts (license plate kit)($2.48)
Total cost: $156.04

I have owned aftermarket versions of these parts in the past but recently sold them because of some personal circumstances. Things turned around, so I found myself with some extra time and money to experiment with rather than just buy new parts. The intercoolers make a difference in performance, the problem is the price, the Elevate IC has a core size of 22.5x6.5x3 with a tube and fin design (8 rows) for the low price of $700, the charge pipe which is FWD specific, over $200. While the do88 seems like the obvious choice because of the price, it still comes in at a little over $500 with shipping for the set. After sorting through all of my options, I decided to try something that – at least to my knowledge - had not been done yet. At first, I looked at universal options for under $100 but that would need fabrication which meant more materials and more cost. With no welder, and the entire purpose of the project to be as cheap and easy as possible, I re-evaluated my options looking for something that would be easy to install and stay under $200.
The larger IC out of newer S60’s (PN 31338236), cost around $50-150 (core dims 25.8x5.7x2.5), and seems like one of the easiest modifications as it may be available at a local scrap yard and, is a direct swap with one exception. Depending on the model of S60, the Sensor plug may be on the wrong side, which means fabrication, albeit very basic, would still be needed.

I began looking into other cars that shared our platform. I found someone had fit an ST intercooler as a direct swap on our S40, with the sensor location being on the same side and everything. I started visiting ST/RS forums to see if the RS IC was interchangeable, and I was able to find that it was! So using very delicate country math I surmised that an RS intercooler should fit our Volvos! I began to see what core size we had been experimenting with and found this –
“7.8" is about the tallest you are going to be able to go and still fit underneath the stock bumper, you could probably make the 24" wide work however 22" is about the perfect size for our air dam so you can just barely see the endtanks.5.8" is pretty thick, 3.5" is what I am using and it fits just right.” –
The RS OEM IC for Ford Focus Mk RS 2.3,(P/N G1FY6K775RC), has a Core size of 7.75x24.25x3.25 and eleven (11) fins. The Boys on the ST/RS forums even compared the ST and RS units where ST, (PN 97392VN), has a core size of 26x6.25x2.5, and a Vol% of 406.25 in^3, the RS IC has a vol% of 610.79^3. I am not completely sure what this means, but I like it.
ST vs RS Intercooler
IMG_4335[1].jpg
RS vs OEM Volvo Intercooler
IMG_4456.jpg
INSTALLATION
The inlets have a 2.75” OD, which makes fitting the stock hoses (2.5”) difficult but not impossible with some heat and stretching. The RS unit has the IC sensor located on the same side as ours and reaches easily. The There are two mounting holes molded on the front of the intercoolers housing, so I used metal brackets to mount to the front metal support – no drilling so far – This held the IC in place just fine with no swinging or movement. The bumper fit like a tight bra but with some light trimming off the bottom of the bumper, i was able to nestle it on.

The installation overall was very easy, if done again I know I could do it without nearly as much trimming but I made mistakes - I did pre maturely cut off two upper mounting brackets from the RS IC, in hindsight I may have been able to leave these on and use for mounting points. The plastic piece under the radiator had a lip that protrudes out, I used a dremel to saw this down but may have been able to leave this on too. In my haste and excitement, I did extra work but hopefully my mistakes will make other experience easier. No issues with sensors as of yet, and overall performance has been awesome.
The Larger IC is noticeable at WOT and I could feel the car had turbo lag on the first few pulls – with stock Volvo charge pipe – but after a day or two the car responded much better. The car also produced a much more noticeable turbo sound from my CBV, my first assumption is it’s a leak , but maybe just a bi product of the larger intercooler?

As for temperature, I am still recording data on dash command but after a week of use, I have no problems to report on!

Next im going to install an RS intake and charge pipe so stay tuned!

Here are some quick figures from dashcammand

OEM - 47* ambient
Run 1
Mph 25-80
Temp 59 - 140

Run 2
Mph 40-80
Temp 57-126

Peak HP estimated = 283

With RS intercooler - 57* ambient

Run 1
Mph 25-80
Temp 59-95

Run 2
Mph 40-80
Temp 50-68!

Peak HP estimated = 303!

That’s a 20hp gain and my temps not only did not pass 100*, but cooled down much faster as well.

This is all done with a Bluetooth app so take that info with a grain of salt.

UPDATES
  • Post 14 - RS Charge Pipe Install
  • Post 15 - Rs Intake Install (v.1.1)
 

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Very well done write-up and tutorial jondevieonS40!

I already put the do88 in my V50, but if I had seen this first I would have definitely attempted this!
 

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This sounds like an amazing idea. So you did this without any drilling or major bumper modification? The elevate parts for P1s are expensive, especially when it’s hard enough to keep what’s already on the car going :p, so I’m very interested in this.


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Discussion Starter #4
This sounds like an amazing idea. So you did this without any drilling or major bumper modification? The elevate parts for P1s are expensive, especially when it’s hard enough to keep what’s already on the car going :p, so I’m very interested in this.


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Nope, with the exception of trimming the lower lip of the radiator and bumper, I used stock mounting points. There are several ways this could have been mounted though without trimming anything.


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Good luck exploring these less-expensive alternatives. I agree, proportional to the value of these cars, the performance upgrade costs are bananas.
 

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Nope, with the exception of trimming the lower lip of the radiator and bumper, I used stock mounting points. There are several ways this could have been mounted though without trimming anything.


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Where did you find the intercooler for $150? Definitely not from Ford, I see.


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Discussion Starter #7

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Test fitting the RS intake today, it’s not a direct fit because of the vacuum lines but it also doesn’t not fit! It will clear the hood with it closed and lines up with where the intake filter should be, or much like the polestar C30 concept car. I should be able to make it work with some extra silicone tubing.
RS intake (2).jpg


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nice work, I would get the RS vac line on there as well.

For RS mods are you looking into handling at all, if the RS MK2 revo knuckles would fit our car?
 

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Whats the benefit of this shorter intake? Its just a little shorter nog alot
 

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nice work, I would get the RS vac line on there as well.

For RS mods are you looking into handling at all, if the RS MK2 revo knuckles would fit our car?
They "look" like they should, but I haven't done a hand in hand comparison to my spares to see.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
nice work, I would get the RS vac line on there as well.

For RS mods are you looking into handling at all, if the RS MK2 revo knuckles would fit our car?
I would need to find some online, so far everythings been had on ebay but if i find a set that can be had for cheap ill give them a shot.


Whats the benefit of this shorter intake? Its just a little shorter nog alot
The entire intake section is 3" then taperes down to 2.5", so its maybe a little more efficient then the stock intake tube but i wouldnt bet on much. I think it actually made my car quieter as well. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
RS Charge Pipe Install

Focus RS OEM Charge Pipe install (fail)
So long story short, the RS charge pipe does follow the same plumbing route as the P1 cars, but contrary to my research the tubing is not 2.5” from the factory, its actually 2” and, believe it or not, seems like a lesser quality tube than our stock pipe. I did not even bother attaching it but it would need a longer silicone tube to reach our turbo’s, especially in AWD models.
Unless this is not the right part the OEM RS charge pipe is not a upgrade for us, the cold side tubing is the same. With a 2.75” upper and lower inlet diameter, it does not follow the same s curve and has more turns In it.
RS charge pipe.jpg 2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Focus RS OEM 3" Intake install (v.1.1)
Materials Used
  • OEM RS Intake (PN G1FY9C623RC)($84)
  • Vacuum line and Fittings
  • 3"-2.5" Silicone Reducer Coupler
  • 2.5" spacer
  • Stock intake Hose with Honeycomb Removed

The focus RS intake follows the same plumbing route and length as our cars, coming from behind the passenger side of the car and ending on the drivers side by the battery. However, a few differences with the intakes lower portion keep it from being a direct swap.

The RS unit has a 3” inlet, cross section and tapers down to a 2.5” opening but the end has a strange built in coupler that keeps it from easily fitting on the stock K04 turbos 2.5” inlet. The coupler that in on the end of the rs unit seems to be fit for a 2.75” opening as it fit loose and slides off if anything smaller is used. Another fitment issue is the coolant lines around the turbo, they are not easily bent, and the wider coupler cannot be seated properly. The contours of the intake also hit a sensor affixes to the coolant lines – this sensor has always been in the way for everything!
IMG_4531.jpg

The lower portions also has a 1” post with a 1” ID - I assume for vacuum - my solution to this was just to plug it with a vacuum line tapped thru the plug, this would have worked if I could get the lower portion to seat.
IMG_4524.jpg

until i can figure out what to do to get the lower portion attached to the turbo, I settled on something similar to the PCP C30 concept, which seems to use the stock intake hose with a intake from a MK2 RS, then attached to a 3-2.5” reducer onto the RS portion.
IMG_4543.jpg

A vacuum line was tapped into a coupler, and the stock retainer fittings can be utilized to keep everything in place.
IMG_4546.jpg
I also added a bolt on the engine cover to make use of the stock RS mounts and keep it from jumping around.

With some modification, I may be able to make the lower RS portion work, but this will do for the meantime. It is not a full 3” intake, and im not convinced its much more efficient than the OEM P1 intake at the capacity. So it’s a work in progress.
 

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maybe worth relocating your ECU and using the RSMK2 ECU holder so its infront of the plenum. Will help you free up space in front of that intake cone an possible route some cold air direct to your cone.

You can also do the vac pump delete and get an RS vac pipe kit on there to free up more space in the bay.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
maybe worth relocating your ECU and using the RSMK2 ECU holder so its infront of the plenum. Will help you free up space in front of that intake cone an possible route some cold air direct to your cone.

You can also do the vac pump delete and get an RS vac pipe kit on there to free up more space in the bay.
I would love to remove or at least move the vacuum pump to free up space, do you have any more info on this?

i noticed the PCP C30 volvo has the vacuum pump moved as well so i knew it could be done. Right now im working on making a custom charge pipe out of one of those eBay universal tubing kits since the RS pipe was a dud.

Do you see alot of St225 and RS parts where you are? im having no luck finding a upgraded hybrid turbo shipped from Uk that wont charge me a core fee.
 

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In preparation for installing an RS/Volvo diesel style airbox I removed the vacuum pump several months ago.

vacuum hoses 2.jpg

I undid the clamp in the red circle and pulled the tube out, then cut the tube in the green circle and rotated the rubber elbow 180 degrees so I could reconnect the tubing. I heated the tube going back to the brake booster so I could straighten it.

brake vacuum hoses after.jpg

I removed the pump mounting bracket and installed the battery bracket from a Focus to provide the mounting holes for the RS airbox.

battery bracket.jpg

I thought I had a picture of the finished product but I couldn't find it so I took one in the dark.

finished RS battery bracket.jpg

As I said, I've been driving with this for several months now and don't notice any adverse effects.
 

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In preparation for installing an RS/Volvo diesel style airbox I removed the vacuum pump several months ago.

I undid the clamp in the red circle and pulled the tube out, then cut the tube in the green circle and rotated the rubber elbow 180 degrees so I could reconnect the tubing. I heated the tube going back to the brake booster so I could straighten it.

I removed the pump mounting bracket and installed the battery bracket from a Focus to provide the mounting holes for the RS airbox.

I thought I had a picture of the finished product but I couldn't find it so I took one in the dark.

As I said, I've been driving with this for several months now and don't notice any adverse effects.
Awesome dude. Although my one worry would be if that check valve takes a poop on ya, you might get some poop on ya when you don't have braking power to stop...
 

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I would love to remove or at least move the vacuum pump to free up space, do you have any more info on this?

i noticed the PCP C30 volvo has the vacuum pump moved as well so i knew it could be done. Right now im working on making a custom charge pipe out of one of those eBay universal tubing kits since the RS pipe was a dud.

Do you see alot of St225 and RS parts where you are? im having no luck finding a upgraded hybrid turbo shipped from Uk that wont charge me a core fee.


I will find out the vac pump delete ins and outs and do it myself and then let you know.

Do you mean the RS Intake pipe? Yes all T5 modders or ST225s here in the UK tend to go for an after market option rather than the OEM pipe on the RS. The RSMK2 intake pipe should fit in nicely but you will obviously need to change the connector pipes (Good time to go silicon)

The RS pipe should of had a MAF sensor input in it, rather then on the end where yours is. I think you could of removed your sensor from your current MAF and put it in the RS pipe, would need to double check that.

There are tonnes of ST225 and RS parts here in the UK, I usually get my parts from these guys https://store.bdperformance.co.uk/

My car is mostly an RS now as well which is why im now looking at that Revo knuckle option as it would widen the tracking which would be great on track.
 
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