I have 2023 V60 and the same camera. I tapped into the fuses that are under and near the glovebox. Assuming you should have a similar box down there. I wish I had taken better notes/pictures... I want to say I tapped into the passenger power seat as the switched power, and the tailgate kick sensor for the constant.

Key is just figuring out what is constant vs what is switched. May take a little trial and error.

For the cables, I routed the power to the passenger A pillar to go to the fuses. Driver's A pillar for the rear camera, which I decided to route along the bottom of the car and then up through the side trim to the window. I used a 3D printed solution from forum member richardGG24 to mount the rear cam and have been happy with it. Not quite as perfect as being mounted closer to the glass, but tit works well enough.

 

I used a USB power take off for the OBD connector. It has a 12v cut off so no worry about battery drainage.

Also there is this option.

Amazon.com

Or this

Dash Cam Power Adapter (3-Pin) for Volvo, Polestar. D3-015

5V + 12V OUTPUT: The input voltage is 12V, and the output voltages are 5V (USB cable) and 12V (DC 3.5mm cable), FitDVR adapters can power the dash cam, mirror camera, GPS, Radar, and other USB devices. DC3.5mm cable can be compatible with devices requiring 12V or those powered by a barrel jack...

fitdvr.com

 

Thanks! Both of those seem like viable options. Do you have the Viofo with parking mode?

 

Thanks Turbovagn.

I have a good Fluke meter that I can use to try to find a constant power fuse to tap into. I'll start with the kick sensor. Thanks for the tip. I've got some time before it arrives to do some probing.

I'm going to try to stay in the headliner to get to the rear, but if it looks like a big PITA I'll try your method. I'll have decent access up there with the panoramic glass out. At least I should be able to see in there better.

I saw the mount richardGG24 makes when I was doing my research (he helped me with a lot of info for the suspension work I was doing). It looks really nice, but I think I'll just mount it on the glass. I'm afraid of knocking it off with my noggin if it doesn't pivot up with the hatch,

 

I took a quick look at the wiring diagram for my 2019 S60, for the fuse box under the glove box, fuse 50/56 is driver/passenger door module, and both are always hot, fuse 24 is only hot with battery saver relay (which is basically ignition on), that one is for all the interior electrical stuff.

Also all the headlamp fuses are hot with ignition relay on, they are fuse 28, 29,48, 53.

 

Once again, great info Richard.

According to my owners manual fuses 50/56 are the same as yours and are both 20A. Fuse 24 lists a bunch of stuff and is 7.5A. Fuse 28 is passenger compartment lighting and is 5A, fuse 29 is not used and shows no current rating. Fuse 48 is coolant pump at 7.5A (don't want to try that one) and fuse 53 is sensus control module at 10A (don't want to try that on either).

The headlamp fuses you listed 28,29,48,53 are in the engine compartment fuse panel in my car, not under the dash. It seems like the circuits with a higher current rating may be safer (if the current draw is monitored by Canbus) because the Viofo draws very little current and would be less likely to cause an issue. Turbovagn's suggestions for constant (foot sensor, fuse 45, 5A) and switched power (front passenger seat heating?, fuse 47, 15A) seem like they would work as well. Can you confirm?

I really don't want to trigger a bunch of warnings or cause issues with critical systems (like the coolant pump) but I will try fuses 50 and 24 first.

Thanks again

 

Once again, great info Richard.

According to my owners manual fuses 50/56 are the same as yours and are both 20A. Fuse 24 lists a bunch of stuff and is 7.5A. Fuse 28 is passenger compartment lighting and is 5A, fuse 29 is not used and shows no current rating. Fuse 48 is coolant pump at 7.5A (don't want to try that one) and fuse 53 is sensus control module at 10A (don't want to try that on either).

The headlamp fuses you listed 28,29,48,53 are in the engine compartment fuse panel in my car, not under the dash. It seems like the circuits with a higher current rating may be safer (if the current draw is monitored by Canbus) because the Viofo draws very little current and would be less likely to cause an issue. Turbovagn's suggestions for constant (foot sensor, fuse 45, 5A) and switched power (front passenger seat heating?, fuse 47, 15A) seem like they would work as well. Can you confirm?

I really don't want to trigger a bunch of warnings or cause issues with critical systems (like the coolant pump) but I will try fuses 50 and 24 first.

Thanks again

My mistake, I somehow read the diagram wrong, you are absolutely right, all the headlamp fuses are in the engine compartment fuse box, so fuse 28,29,48,53 in the under glove box fuse box are not going to work.

 

Sorry if I wasn't clear, I didn't mean the seat heater for the passenger seat, but just the power seat motors itself. I'm not sure if the seat heater one would work or not for this purpose.

Richard always has great advice!

 

Sorry if I wasn't clear, I didn't mean the seat heater for the passenger seat, but just the power seat motors itself. I'm not sure if the seat heater one would work or not for this purpose.

Richard always has great advice!

Yes he does.

I looked for those fuses but the only ones I could find under the dash in my list were for the heating. The front power seat fuses are in the "cargo compartment" panel and are Mcase fuses.

 

A tad off topic and should likely go in the For Sale forum, but I bought one of the dashcams from Viva Performance (Universal Dash Cam, 4K Camera) a few months ago. My wife bought me a Garmin dash cam and the one I bought is just sitting in the box. It was $169 new, never installed. First $100 plus shipping gets it. I just don't wanna mess with the install. Kindly DM me so I don't gum up this post anymore.

 

Here's another question. Have any of you wired a battery pack for parking mode instead of hardwiring the cam? I know the battery would have to be wired like the hardwire kit with switched and constant power plus ground, and the switched power should be relatively high current, around 10A or more. If you have tried one, which one have you tried? There is a compartment in the top of the glovebox for the owners manual (about the same size as the battery packs) that might make a great spot to install one if it fits. Or possibly under the passenger seat.

I might be looking too deep into this...

Thoughts?

 

24 hour park mode will take care of it. The camera will "sleep" until movement or impact sets it off. The hard wire kits will have a battery cut off built in.

You could just wire the constant power to a 12v 7ah battery and put it the trunk near the battery. But now you have to pull it out frequently to charge it.

I would just use the 24 hour park mode and don't sweat it

 

I do plan to set the cut-off voltage on the Viofo hardwire kit to 12.2V to protect the main battery from being drained too far.

The parking mode battery I was referring to is the Thinkware iVolt Xtra (7500mAh). There are similar ones from other manufactures, but this one seems like the best.

 

I do plan to set the cut-off voltage on the Viofo hardwire kit to 12.2V to protect the main battery from being drained too far.

That's how I have mine set. Haven't had any camera or battery issues. I do keep my car on a C-tek when not driving. I'm going on 6.5 years on the original start battery. I have replaced the support battery once. I have been thinking recently of getting a new start battery as a precaution. But the car starts right up so I keep putting it off. I think the O.E. battery is a 4 year battery.

 

Don't forget a fireproof battery bag, for just in case.

 

OK. I had some time this morning and I was able to find the best way (I think) to route the wire to the rear camera in my V60. I looked at Turbovagn's pics for taking the low route and I decided to do some investigating. I was able to remove all the panels all the way back to the headliner in the rear including the "D" pillar trim with the track for the privacy cover (two pieces). There is a lot of space behind the carpeted lower panel below the rear side window so routing through there will avoid having to deal with the curtain airbags and rear seatbelt tensioner. I also found the hidden fuse panel in the rear, not that I needed to, but it was there. I didn't remove the lower "B" pillar cover, but that can't be too hard. I will take a bunch of pics when I do the install. I still have not received the camera yet, but I should get it before next weekend. I just wanted to figure this out before actually installing it.

If I decide to install the Thinkware parking mode battery later, if I have issues, it looks like there is space under the rear floor cover on the driver's side to fit it. If not, under the driver's seat looks possible as well. For charging it, I would wire a separate 15A fused 14ga circuit straight off the main start battery through a SPST NO relay to the battery input, along with a ground. I would trigger the relay by tapping into the hot (with ignition on only) wire for the 12V outlet in the rear. Then wire the camera system to the output of the battery as normal. Separate high current circuit with no issues with Canbus or other systems.

 

I did this install ~2 years ago and found a few good posts and a helpful video. My dashcam is the VIOFO A129, so should be similar? I’ve had no issues, other than my Auto Start/Stop not working very often after the install. (I turned off the parking mode and it started working again some, but I think between the battery age and the cold it doesn’t function as consistently as before.)

Here are the screenshots I took to do my install. (I’ll post another comment with the pictures I took myself.)

 

And here are my photos.

I originally installed the add-a-fuse in backwards because the fusebox cover wouldn’t close with it in the correct way. Then I realized that I couldn’t just flip the add-a-fuse like that! So I cut a chunk out of the interfering rib in the fusebox cover.

Then, as I’m fairly certain you’ve mentioned, need to make sure the cables go behind the side curtain airbags(!)

 

After more thought I decided to get the Thinkware iVolt Xtra battery pack. After reading all the posts about issues with parking mode not working, which fuse to use, VIDA issues,... I think this is the safest way to go. Cheapest? No. Most reliable? Yes. This will avoid having to connect to any fuses in the panel under the dash. Getting in there is not fun and I don't want to play trial and error with the fuses.

I have confirmed the iVolt battery will fit under the rear floor cover, close to the hinge, behind the driver's side back seat. I cut a piece of 2x8 to 9"long (about the same size as the iVolt but slightly thicker) and it is a close fit, but it does fit. I may cut out the 1/4" thick floor insulation to give it a little more height clearance and to get a better surface for attaching the velcro mounting tape it comes with. It may get hot in there in the summer (I live in Florida), but it will function up to 140 degrees and has thermal protection if it goes above that.

After studying the install and wiring instructions (again) it looks like a relatively simple install it in the V60 (with the main battery being in the back). I plan to run the iVolt input cable directly to the main battery post clamps. iVolt Input cable positive wire to positive post clamp, through a 20A fuse holder (draws 8.5A max at 14.2V in fast charge mode), and ground to negative post (best ground possible). The iVolt output cable has a green wire that needs to be connected to an ignition switched source to tell the ivolt battery the car is running and to start the charging cycle. I will tap into the hot wire for the 12V outlet in the right rear panel, through a 5A fuse holder (just to be safe), for this wire. I have confirmed the outlet is switched. I will then connect the remaining three wires from the iVolt output cable to the Viofo hardwire kit. The red and yellow wires (switched and constant) are opposite between the Viofo and the iVolt so I have to make sure to connect them properly. I will run the hardwire kit wiring (with the rear camera cable) along the floor to the front and up the "A" pillar to the camera.

There are quite a few trim pieces that need to be removed and this install will be time consuming but I think it is the best overall way considering all the issues involved (fuses, VIDA, airbags). I will take pics while I'm doing it and post them when I am done. I may start a new thread for this.

 

An FYI for after the install. I have the Viofo A229+ in my 2022 XC60. I have the Viofo hardwired kit and run the parking record mode set to 11.8 volts cutoff. To help save the battery turn off the Park GPS option inthe camera settings. I often couldn't use the remote start option because after the battery get below a certain voltage the car would turn off it's Internet connection and show offline in the app. Once I turned off that option I haven't had a problem since.

 

Update. I did the install today and have quite a few pics. I am going to start a new thread for it named V60 Viofo/Thinkware install. Take a look...