My tie rod ball joint nuts were definitely rusted on as well. I cut away the rubber boot and grabbed the ball joint bolt/base with a pair of vice grips and hit the nut with an impact wrench. That ultimately worked for me, but I agree the Dremel is an invaluable tool!
Joeycmsu’s build thread
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Be sure and watch for the specification regarding differences in length between left and right. The length of the exposed threads of the inner rod should not exceed 2mm difference from each other. When I did mine, I matched the lengths of the new assembly, not realizing it had been incorrectly done previously, or there was an accumulation of error when alignments has been done in the last 10 years. Alignment techs don't necessarily watch for that, as they just center the steering wheel and align to that.
Good to know. I counted the exposed threads on the old TRE's. There were 13 threads on the left and 12 on the right, so I put the new ones back the same. Sounds like it's within specification.
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Look forward to seeing/hearing it.
Yes, overall very satisfied with the towing performance. Weight distribution hitch is key I think, especially if towing closer to max weight limits. Also, I made sure to upgrade the brakes from the 316mm fronts to 336mm plus braided lines all around. Fuel economy can suffer though depending on the roads and terrain. I've seen upwards of 20l/100km
And here is what my IPD "HD" spring seats looked like when removed. I had put these in about 1 year ago if I am remembering correctly, but maybe it's been 2 years. Either way, disappointing. IPD did at least provide these replacements for free after my last ones failed.
I am installing Rein spring seats from FCP this time. I still expect to have to replace them in 2 years, but they will be free replacements...
![116414]()
![116415]()
I am installing Rein spring seats from FCP this time. I still expect to have to replace them in 2 years, but they will be free replacements...
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767 Posts
Ah, much worse than mine appeared after 40k kms. I only had a small gap starting to show but yours have clearly separated.
Clearly a wear item so FCP makes sense. I put in URO 'premium' pieces that I got off a buddy. I'll see how those hold up. Might put the IPD back in next round to fully wear them out in order to get the free replacement to recover my costs.
Clearly a wear item so FCP makes sense. I put in URO 'premium' pieces that I got off a buddy. I'll see how those hold up. Might put the IPD back in next round to fully wear them out in order to get the free replacement to recover my costs.
Edit: Nevermind. A little heat, some oil, and some 'persuasion' and the hose fit onto the OTE pipe.
On the good news side of things, all of the suspension is back together, old exhaust bolts are drilled out and the downpipe is installed now.
Nice, Besides a Dremel for rusted bolts/nuts, a heat gun is another great tool to have that helps install or remove those rubber bits. I also use a heat gun where I'm afraid plastic is going to crack when removing.
Can't wait for the end result!
Can't wait for the end result!
Just did the Stage 3 flash from Hilton. Their instructions are to then idle the car for 5 minutes while logging data and send them the log file. I started her up and idled for a bit, but there is a pretty bad exhaust leak just going by smell.
I am going to put the car in neutral and roll it out of the garage to let it idle and see how bad the exhaust leak gets. Best case, I tighten up a few things and that's that. Medium case I have to replace the manifold to turbo gasket and put on a one-piece exhaust manifold bracket (that will probably take me a day to pull the turbo again and put it back on).
Worst case is the exhaust leak can't be resolved without extracting the broken manifold stud and putting a new one in. That would involve taking it to a shop at this point, and I'm not sure of any shops around here that I trust to do that work.
I am going to put the car in neutral and roll it out of the garage to let it idle and see how bad the exhaust leak gets. Best case, I tighten up a few things and that's that. Medium case I have to replace the manifold to turbo gasket and put on a one-piece exhaust manifold bracket (that will probably take me a day to pull the turbo again and put it back on).
Worst case is the exhaust leak can't be resolved without extracting the broken manifold stud and putting a new one in. That would involve taking it to a shop at this point, and I'm not sure of any shops around here that I trust to do that work.
Fortunately, I was over-reacting. I pushed the car out of the garage last night, and after it idled for a while everything seemed pretty normal. I just got the go-ahead from Hilton to do a partial throttle test drive, so I’ll get that done today.
Also - am I missing something with the coolant refill? I drained the coolant from the radiator drain before doing this work, but it seems that I can’t really get a good ‘burp’ on the system until the engine warms up and the thermostat opens. Should I be doing something else to remove air from the system?
Also - am I missing something with the coolant refill? I drained the coolant from the radiator drain before doing this work, but it seems that I can’t really get a good ‘burp’ on the system until the engine warms up and the thermostat opens. Should I be doing something else to remove air from the system?
I’ve driven down the street now, and I have a ‘whirring’ sound on deceleration with no load.
Anybody have any thoughts on what I should be looking at?
It seems like some people have developed this sound after the driveshaft is removed, coming from the angle gear. From what I understand, I can just remove the angle gear completely, right? The collar sleeve holds the seal in for the transmission, and there is a bearing/keeper on the axle shaft that keeps it in place.
Anybody have any thoughts on what I should be looking at?
It seems like some people have developed this sound after the driveshaft is removed, coming from the angle gear. From what I understand, I can just remove the angle gear completely, right? The collar sleeve holds the seal in for the transmission, and there is a bearing/keeper on the axle shaft that keeps it in place.
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May well be and unloaded angle gear and one with slop as your photos showed. Did you put it all back together dry? If yes, possible you might mitigate the noise a bit by packing sleeve and spline with axle grease and putting it back together. If the angle gear is left off, sleeve won't be guaranteed stay put (hard as it may be to remove), you need something to keep it against the transmission. Some mentions of a screw clamp on a couple posts between sleeve and driveshaft, might be something more around for easy ways to do it. Sleeve interfaces with inner and outer seals so needs to stay in place, there's a snap ring in the middle to prevent much travel on the angle gear input shaft side and when this gets put together a bunch of grease is involved.
I removed the angle gear completely tonight (I put some screw clamps on the axle shaft to help hold the collar sleeve in, but I don't think it's going anywhere).
I no longer have any weird drivetrain sounds! Whew!
I sent another log file to Hilton, and I'm hoping everything looks good to them and I can push it a little. I haven't been anywhere near WOT yet.
All of the new suspension and steering bits feel great - I should have done most of that a few years ago.
I no longer have any weird drivetrain sounds! Whew!
I sent another log file to Hilton, and I'm hoping everything looks good to them and I can push it a little. I haven't been anywhere near WOT yet.
All of the new suspension and steering bits feel great - I should have done most of that a few years ago.
I am still waiting to hear back from Hilton Tuning on the latest log file. In the mean time I am feeling like I made a mistake in where I bought fuel injectors. I found some Bosch green fuel injectors on eBay for a good price, so I bought them and thought 'hey great, I saved $100'. Seller had lots of reviews, very positive, etc.
Anyway, I am concerned that those injectors may not be genuine Bosch, so I think I'm going to buy new injectors from FCP just so I have some peace of mind on that aspect. Live and learn ?
Anyway, I am concerned that those injectors may not be genuine Bosch, so I think I'm going to buy new injectors from FCP just so I have some peace of mind on that aspect. Live and learn ?
Just precautions. I did hear back from Hilton today and he said the last log looked good, but these injectors have just been looming in the back of my mind that I cut a corner.
Mostly I am probably being paranoid with some of this. This turbo swap is the most involved engine/performance type of modification I have ever done.
Mostly I am probably being paranoid with some of this. This turbo swap is the most involved engine/performance type of modification I have ever done.
If the logs look good, then you have some time to think or purchase new injectors from reputable FCP. Or get it done so Hilton ensures the tune is set to the injectors. I have had an injector fail on me and it burned up the piston. The exhaust valve luckily was sodium filled so it handled the heat. With a turbo, for peace of mind, I would get the injectors. Glad you said something here about it because getting good quality parts and getting them from reputable places is worth a little more money, just to keep peace of mind. Great lesson for those planning a build or modifications.
So the "Bosch" injectors from FCP Euro showed up today, and my first concern is that they were drop shipped from a third party and not shipped directly from FCP.
Upon opening the box, all of the individual fuel injector boxes had already been opened (seals broken) and were generally in bad condition. Most of the injectors were physically dirty, and at least two of them looked like they had been installed before because there is wear on the o-ring where the injector meets the fuel rail. SIGH
On top of that, these injectors look physically different (shorter) than my stock orange injectors and the ebay greens that I have. The electrical connector is also not the same.
So obviously I'm not installing these, and I've reached out to FCP for help. What a mess!
Upon opening the box, all of the individual fuel injector boxes had already been opened (seals broken) and were generally in bad condition. Most of the injectors were physically dirty, and at least two of them looked like they had been installed before because there is wear on the o-ring where the injector meets the fuel rail. SIGH
On top of that, these injectors look physically different (shorter) than my stock orange injectors and the ebay greens that I have. The electrical connector is also not the same.
So obviously I'm not installing these, and I've reached out to FCP for help. What a mess!
I have had one issue with a drop shipper from FCP (only time they used one with me) and they corrected it really quick. They went to ship the parts from their warehouse to quality check the next day. How are they handling it?
This is also good info in verifying parts that come in, from anywhere. What are the part numbers on the shorter injectors? Are they different?
This is also good info in verifying parts that come in, from anywhere. What are the part numbers on the shorter injectors? Are they different?
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