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When I was doing my floor I had decided on porcelain tiles and spoke to one of my clients who has a tiling business. His advice was not to use porcelain tiles as they would be very slippy if wet and suggested I look into quarry tiles. After searching quarry tiles I couldn't find anything that was aesthetically suitable so then bought epoxy paint but before I applied it another client of mine with a flooring business said he could get a substantial discount on plastic floor tiles and they would be more durable than epoxy paint and that's the route I went down. They'sa been down since 2010 and apart from a few light grey tiles discolouring slightly (which is caused with hot car tyres sitting on them) they are still like new

Property Flooring Interior design Floor House
 

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My dad ended up just leaving the concrete flooring in his barns. Yes, some fancy material would have been nice. However, since the space is mainly used for maintenance and parking and half the cars have perpetual oil leaks, he just left the concrete flooring as is. It doesn't look the best, but it doesn't get slippery when wet, it's free since it's what the foundation and slab is, and he didn't want to spend the money on a nice floor just to ruin it with oil leaks, coolant, or whatever else spills during work or leaks from the cars.
 
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Yeah, I keep thinking the epoxy paint would be a pain to do and wouldn’t be durable. I kinda want those tiles but they are so expensive.
I highly recommend Swisstrax and if you wait for some sort of a holiday they usually go on sale + free shipping.

I really wanted to do ceramic tiles (there are versions that do not get slippery) but timing did not work out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,566 · (Edited)
Yeah, I keep thinking the epoxy paint would be a pain to do and wouldn’t be durable. I kinda want those tiles but they are so expensive.
Porcelain tile is actually cheaper than decent epoxy. Lowe's has PEI-4 tiles (a garage should be 4 or 5) on sale right now for under $0.5/ft². Not sure I like those tiles but there are plenty of others at normal price starting around $1. I don't remember the exact numbers since I did this research over 6 months ago, but my recollection is industrial grade epoxy coating would cost like $3-4. The consumer grade kits you can get at Lowe's/etc are closer to $2 but don't stand up well in an industrial environment.* Between the cost and how toxic epoxy is to work with, I very quickly decided in favor of tile.

*I consider my house to be an industrial environment

I'd just hate to spill oil on it!
That is why I want my garage floor to look like this! The slippery when wet thing would definitely be a drawback though. Not sure the ease of cleanup justifies that.

Tire Wheel Property Plant Automotive tire



When I was doing my floor I had decided on porcelain tiles and spoke to one of my clients who has a tiling business. His advice was not to use porcelain tiles as they would be very slippy if wet and suggested I look into quarry tiles. After searching quarry tiles I couldn't find anything that was aesthetically suitable so then bought epoxy paint but before I applied it another client of mine with a flooring business said he could get a substantial discount on plastic floor tiles and they would be more durable than epoxy paint and that's the route I went down. They'sa been down since 2010 and apart from a few light grey tiles discolouring slightly (which is caused with hot car tyres sitting on them) they are still like new

View attachment 178623
I looked into those as well a while back and found that they were also significantly more expensive than porcelain tile, although the install would certainly be much easier. I would definitely go that route over an epoxy coating.

My grandfather has a quarry tile patio. Never knew what it was called before but it's a great surface. However it doesn't seem like it would do well around oil.


I am in the process of completing a survey and site plan for a 2 car garage and in-law apartment at my house in Dover, would love all the ideas I can get!
Do you want a lift, or to be able to add one in the future? If so, design your garage around the features you want in the lift and the requirements thereof.
 

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When I built my garage the plan was to build a pit into the floor, however once I excavated the hole for the pit it soon filled with water which indicated I was below the water table level so I backfilled the pit and spoke to my architect. After a bit of head sctatching we decided I could fit a lift once the build was completed (plans were already approved and changing them mid way through would be a major headache and hold the build up for months). This meant fitting extra trusses in the roof space where I intended cutting into for the extra height. I fitted extra trusses and once the build completed and passes by planning I went to work bolting in extra timbers that would allow be to remove the bottom stings from the trusses. A tense nerve racking time was had in the roof space with saw in hand cutting my trusses waiting for the roof to crash to the ground. It's been like that now for 12 years and no problems.

Don't do this without seeking professional advice

Maximum lift height before cutting trusses
Automotive parking light Tire Wheel Automotive side marker light Vehicle


Truss strings before cutting
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive lighting


Extra timbers bolted in and strings cut away
Bicycle Wheel Tire Bicycle tire Vehicle


Bicycle Wheel Tire Bicycle wheel Building


XC90 on the ramp and too high for me to reach
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I saw that in the link you'd shared. Far better result in my opinion. Well done! I think you need another wagon to tuck under there... 🤣
When I built my garage the plan was to build a pit into the floor, however once I excavated the hole for the pit it soon filled with water which indicated I was below the water table level so I backfilled the pit and spoke to my architect. After a bit of head sctatching we decided I could fit a lift once the build was completed (plans were already approved and changing them mid way through would be a major headache and hold the build up for months). This meant fitting extra trusses in the roof space where I intended cutting into for the extra height. I fitted extra trusses and once the build completed and passes by planning I went to work bolting in extra timbers that would allow be to remove the bottom stings from the trusses. A tense nerve racking time was had in the roof space with saw in hand cutting my trusses waiting for the roof to crash to the ground. It's been like that now for 12 years and no problems.
Don't do this without seeking professional advice
Maximum lift height before cutting trusses
Truss strings before cutting
Extra timbers bolted in and strings cut away
XC90 on the ramp and too high for me to reach
 
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Discussion Starter · #1,569 ·
When I built my garage the plan was to build a pit into the floor, however once I excavated the hole for the pit it soon filled with water which indicated I was below the water table level so I backfilled the pit and spoke to my architect. After a bit of head sctatching we decided I could fit a lift once the build was completed (plans were already approved and changing them mid way through would be a major headache and hold the build up for months). This meant fitting extra trusses in the roof space where I intended cutting into for the extra height. I fitted extra trusses and once the build completed and passes by planning I went to work bolting in extra timbers that would allow be to remove the bottom stings from the trusses. A tense nerve racking time was had in the roof space with saw in hand cutting my trusses waiting for the roof to crash to the ground. It's been like that now for 12 years and no problems.

Don't do this without seeking professional advice

Maximum lift height before cutting trusses
View attachment 178941

Truss strings before cutting
View attachment 178942

Extra timbers bolted in and strings cut away
View attachment 178943

View attachment 178944

XC90 on the ramp and too high for me to reach
View attachment 178945
I read through that the other day in your garage thread. It makes perfect sense to me that you were able to do that since that piece you bolted in is basically what all houses here had before trusses came out.

That said, I studied engineering in college and learned all about trusses, so I know how to deal with them if I ever need to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,571 ·
Forgot I didn't have headliner adhesive in stock....so kinda stuck on the actual fabric part of the project, but I took my cabin temp sensors out to make another attempt at servicing them. The passenger side rattles at times so I took it fully apart to figure out what I could do.

View attachment 136914



Board for the motor is melted in. Had to shave down the pins to get it out so I could get at the motor.

View attachment 136916


Cool motor design

View attachment 136917


Oil added. Hopefully that will shut it up. Sure spins a lot better. Annoyingly Amazon doesn't have headliner adhesive so I guess I'll have to actually go buy some myself next time the house this weekend lol.

View attachment 136918
Don't do this. After servicing these sensors, my climate control was all over the map—wildly inconsistent both between zones and over time. While I still have cold evenings to test the climate control, I swapped the temp sensors over from my 850R, which confirmed my suspicion that something went horribly wrong when servicing the sensors. We now rejoin our regularly scheduled programming in the 72/auto gang after a year of spinning knobs endlessly and hopelessly. And, yes, it is possible to replace these without fully removing the headliner.

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72 and sunny all year long, baby.
Don't do this. After servicing these sensors, my climate control was all over the map—wildly inconsistent both between zones and over time. While I still have cold evenings to test the climate control, I swapped the temp sensors over from my 850R, which confirmed my suspicion that something went horribly wrong when servicing the sensors. We now rejoin our regularly scheduled programming in the 72/auto gang after a year of spinning knobs endlessly and hopelessly. And, yes, it is possible to replace these without fully removing the headliner.

View attachment 182075
 
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