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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Jack Product Opinion--Safety standpoint

Please could I ask of your opinion of this method I am considering of jacking up the XC90. Rather than using a jack I was considering using this jackstand/jack combo:

https://www.powerbuilt.com/products/6000-lb-unijack-bottle-jack-jackstand-in-one


Since the lowest height is 11 inches I was considering using lynx levelers or some other brand similar or a ramp.


Here is a video that shows how I would use (under front cross member instead):


The reason I want to use Powerbuilt is I am in a apartment where have to go up two flight of stairs so being light is important. More important to me is that it being jackstand it is an added safety feature.
 

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Powerlift looks cool. The ramps used don’t look very special.

No way would I want to carry a 3ton jack up and down stairs. So between those options it seems like a clear winner.


2010 xc90 3.2 using Tapatalk
 

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Their 4000 lb version goes down to less than 9", is probably lighter, and costs less to boot. Might want to consider it. Personally, I think I'd look into an aluminum floor jack, or maybe a single family house with garage... ;)

[edit] I just looked at some of the comments. While they say it has a range of 10 inches or so, it looks like the jack's stroke is about half that, so, unless you can lift, then lock the jack stand portion and lower the jack to get a new grip, you will not be able to lift from the lower limit to the upper limit.

Unless you need to get the wheels off (factory jack can do that) a nice set of ramps might be more useful.
 

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I have a 3 ton aluminum jack for that reason, and it still is sooooo heavy.


2010 xc90 3.2 using Tapatalk
 

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After giving it some thought, I think I'd get a pair of jack stands and use the factory jack to do the lifting.
 

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Get yourself some Esco jackstands and a good 3-ton trolley jack. Jack the front, then jack the rear. Once you have the front up, the XC90 is so rigid that lifting one rear control arm will lift the whole rear evenly.

-Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
-Ryan what kind of trolley jack do you use? Thanks for your post I'm definitely going to get Esco jackstands as well.
 

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-Ryan what kind of trolley jack do you use? Thanks for your post I'm definitely going to get Esco jackstands as well.
It's actually a Harbor Freight 3-ton that I bought about ten years ago. It's one of few HF tools that just keeps going. The rubber puck adapter ("pinch-weld" adapter?) came from Amazon.

Rubber on painted under-body really eases the mind when lifting these modern cars.

Amazon should be the cheapest place to get the Esco's, as a 2-pk. They aren't cheap, but they are really nice jack stands.

-Ryan.
 

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It's actually a Harbor Freight 3-ton that I bought about ten years ago. It's one of few HF tools that just keeps going. The rubber puck adapter ("pinch-weld" adapter?) came from Amazon.

Rubber on painted under-body really eases the mind when lifting these modern cars.

Amazon should be the cheapest place to get the Esco's, as a 2-pk. They aren't cheap, but they are really nice jack stands.

-Ryan.
When it comes to HF, I always say, buy it only if it has less than 2 moving parts. :)

What's the word on the Esco jacks though? I've never heard of them. What makes them better than the normal steel red jackstands you can pick up at any auto parts store?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
What's the word on the Esco jacks though? I've never heard of them. What makes them better than the normal steel red jackstands you can pick up at any auto parts store?
Ryan probably be better source of information. What seems good about them is they have a wide base, pin to lock the stand in place, the round feet pads less prone to digging into asphalt, the flat rubber pad looks like an ideal solution where it meets with flat surface, less likely to mar the surface, and a decent height range (13.2-21.5) to work with. I'm still researching so let me know if anyone finds better safer solution for our volvos
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Their 4000 lb version goes down to less than 9", is probably lighter, and costs less to boot. Might want to consider it. Personally, I think I'd look into an aluminum floor jack, or maybe a single family house with garage... ;)

Unless you need to get the wheels off (factory jack can do that) a nice set of ramps might be more useful.
Thanks John didn't even consider 4000lb I thought that would not be rated high enough, but raising one end off ground seems like it should satisfy it. Ha, I envy all who have a garage! Yes, ramps I will probably look into. Maybe I would consider wheel cribbing as an alternative to ramps as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
So I ended up getting the Powerbuilt Unijack from Pep Boys sometime ago. Unfortunately the holes besides the first one were too small to fit the pin so my options to raise to higher height weren't possible. Everything else seemed to look good and it jacked up fine. It won't fully go down however at the very end, you have to use a crow bar or remove the handle from it like you see in the video at the top, or your hand if it is raised higher than original setting. I returned but was unable to get another one because now they are discontinued. They are also discontinued at home depot. Makes me kind of wonder what is going on with it and if quality control issues are a factor

So back to considering normal jacks ... until I was reading this thread where he experienced jack failure as he was removing his jack stands: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?197141-Jack-failed-car-dropped-now-noise-while-driving :eek:

....so it seems the jack used wasn't the best quality: "my jack is about as cheap as you can get..."
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?115796-floor-jack-question


That is one of the main reasons I was interested in the Powerbuilt because I could raise it high enough while keeping it locked in place into jackstand, so minimize that risk when placing and removing jack stands. Also, could keep it in place as a back up jack stand to Esco.

Not sure what to do .... kind of still leaning with powerbuilt because of the built in jackstand even though there seems to be quality control issues
 

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Ryan probably be better source of information. What seems good about them is they have a wide base, pin to lock the stand in place, the round feet pads less prone to digging into asphalt, the flat rubber pad looks like an ideal solution where it meets with flat surface, less likely to mar the surface, and a decent height range (13.2-21.5) to work with. I'm still researching so let me know if anyone finds better safer solution for our volvos
The Esco stands are by far the highest quality jack stands I've come across in 20 years of shade-tree-mechanicing. Bar none. Plus, the padded, flat surfaces are really essential in this modern era of cars with painted undersides and without good jack stand points. Traditional, "saddle/axle" stands are just not compatible with newer cars.

I still have 8 Craftsman saddle-style jack stands in 3-ton and 4-ton that I use for the RWD Volvos, as they have a rear axle, and the front jacking points are amendable to a saddle jack. These, I trust enough to do rear main seals and the like.

In a pinch, a few years ago when all my stands were in use, I needed to buy some parts-store "cheap-red" 3-ton stands and jack. Garbage. I have no faith in these whatsoever. They just take up space in my garage now. Sears closed down the only store near us, so no more Craftsman without shipping.

Lastly: With a good high lift trolley jack, the XC90 can be lifted *easily*. Place a rubber "puck" on the lifting pad. Lift once on the front crossmember, and place stands. With the chassis now supported, you can jack anywhere on the rear suspension, and the back will come up squarely, because the chassis is so rigid. That's two "jackings". There's no need to jack the four corners individually.

-Ryan
 

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When it comes to HF, I always say, buy it only if it has less than 2 moving parts. :)

What's the word on the Esco jacks though? I've never heard of them. What makes them better than the normal steel red jackstands you can pick up at any auto parts store?
I have much the same opinion of HF. Once I had a soldering iron from HF. Plugged it in for the first use, and it melted itself.

That said, the floor jack has been used and abused for at least a decade. It's outlived a number of other floor jacks, and I've used it a lot.

-Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Lastly: With a good high lift trolley jack, the XC90 can be lifted *easily*. Place a rubber "puck" on the lifting pad. Lift once on the front crossmember, and place stands. With the chassis no supported, you can jack anywhere on the rear suspension, and the back will come up squarely, because the chassis is so rigid. That's two "jackings". There's no need to jack the four corners individually.

-Ryan
If I only wanted to get the rear up in one jacking I would still have to put the front on jack stands first?
 

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The Esco stands are by far the highest quality jack stands I've come across in 20 years of shade-tree-mechanicing. Bar none. Plus, the padded, flat surfaces are really essential in this modern era of cars with painted undersides and without good jack stand points. Traditional, "saddle/axle" stands are just not compatible with newer cars.

I still have 8 Craftsman saddle-style jack stands in 3-ton and 4-ton that I use for the RWD Volvos, as they have a rear axle, and the front jacking points are amendable to a saddle jack. These, I trust enough to do rear main seals and the like.

In a pinch, a few years ago when all my stands were in use, I needed to buy some parts-store "cheap-red" 3-ton stands and jack. Garbage. I have no faith in these whatsoever. They just take up space in my garage now. Sears closed down the only store near us, so no more Craftsman without shipping.

Lastly: With a good high lift trolley jack, the XC90 can be lifted *easily*. Place a rubber "puck" on the lifting pad. Lift once on the front crossmember, and place stands. With the chassis no supported, you can jack anywhere on the rear suspension, and the back will come up squarely, because the chassis is so rigid. That's two "jackings". There's no need to jack the four corners individually.

-Ryan
very useful, i've been jacking each corner like a buffoon; thanks for lighting the way
 

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If I only wanted to get the rear up in one jacking I would still have to put the front on jack stands first?
Unfortunately, yes. Without the front end on stands, the front suspension comes into play, and the car will go up canted. it's only when the uni-body is rigidly supported up front that the rear will go up square. That said, if you jack each side under/near the shock mount on the heavy control arm (not the skinny one!), it's easy to place jack stands on the "flats" in front of the rear sub-frame.

very useful, i've been jacking each corner like a buffoon; thanks for lighting the way
This is what is working for me. Hope it's useful for others. Just be real careful under these things. After 20 years of working under 240/740/940, I'm always impressed by how much heavier the XC90 feels.

-Ryan
 
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