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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Here is the 7 pin to 4 pin adaptor I got. It’s made by Hopkins, got it at advanced auto.



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Thanks!

If you have a chance can you grab a pic from the underside of your bumper showing the cutout made?


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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Can anyone give some guidance on this step of the instructions. I’m a bit confused as to which fuses I need to install.

Both positions, DF11 and DF18 on my Xc90 are empty. I believe from the instructions it wants you to install a 40amp fuse in the Df11 spot.
But that’s where I’m confused. It says *Note, if df18 is occupied than ensure a 40 amp fuse is mounted*. So does that mean if it’s not occupied and is empty to just leave it empty? And only use the 40amp fuse in the df11 spot. Only one 40amp fuse was included with the module in the bag.







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Does anyone know what would happen if I install the new hitch but don't have the dealership install the software update? I want to use the hitch only for a bike rack and am wondering if I don't need the software just for that. If not, no need to pay the dealer an extra $200.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Does anyone know what would happen if I install the new hitch but don't have the dealership install the software update? I want to use the hitch only for a bike rack and am wondering if I don't need the software just for that. If not, no need to pay the dealer an extra $200.
I could be mistaken but I’m pretty sure you won’t even be able to drop the hitch down using the button if you don’t first get the software installed. I believe I was told that part of the software upload is what sends power to the switch allowing it to fold down.


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Does anyone know what would happen if I install the new hitch but don't have the dealership install the software update? I want to use the hitch only for a bike rack and am wondering if I don't need the software just for that. If not, no need to pay the dealer an extra $200.
I could be mistaken but I’m pretty sure you won’t even be able to drop the hitch down using the button if you don’t first get the software installed. I believe I was told that part of the software upload is what sends power to the switch allowing it to fold down.


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Correct. You need to program the trailer module.
 

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*EDITED to reflect answers to questions in previous posts*

I'm comparing the factory Volvo hitch to the Stealth Hitch - is anyone bothered by the fact that the Stealth Hitch inserts their steel towbar into the air gap between the bumper and frame? Should I be worried about that?

Thanks for any thoughts.
 

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EDITED to reflect answers to questions in previous posts

I'm comparing the factory Volvo hitch to the Stealth Hitch - is anyone bothered by the fact that the Stealth Hitch inserts their steel towbar into the air gap between the bumper and frame? Should I be worried about that?

Thanks for any thoughts.
I think you can make a cap to fill the gap if need.
 

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Kit020 (for air suspension). They have a kit for WO air suspension. They can be had for $640 or around $512 if you have a rebate and they ok the rebate. This is just for parts. Install and VIDA programming I'm estimating at $400 (wild guess).
118557
 

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Hello. I ordered the foldable hitch from Jim Fisher Volvo Cars in Portland, OR. Best price and lowest shipping cost I could find here in 2021. I am down to the cutout in the bumper cover and found the templates free to download but cannot figure out what the scale is supposed to be. There is a sort of gauge on each diagfram that says "100" in two directions but it doesn't say what the 100 is, e.g. milimeters? microns? My guess would be milimeters since this is a European product. Does anybody know the correct printer scale to print these from Adobe Acrobat?

PS - installing this on a 2017 XC90 T8 Excellence, primarily for bike rack use but I did put in the trailer module.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Hello. I ordered the foldable hitch from Jim Fisher Volvo Cars in Portland, OR. Best price and lowest shipping cost I could find here in 2021. I am down to the cutout in the bumper cover and found the templates free to download but cannot figure out what the scale is supposed to be. There is a sort of gauge on each diagfram that says "100" in two directions but it doesn't say what the 100 is, e.g. milimeters? microns? My guess would be milimeters since this is a European product. Does anybody know the correct printer scale to print these from Adobe Acrobat?

PS - installing this on a 2017 XC90 T8 Excellence, primarily for bike rack use but I did put in the trailer module.
I blew the scale up to 140% before printing. If you measure the lines which say 100 that will help determine that the scale is correct. The scale of 100 is in millimeters so 100mm converts to 10cm on a ruler. As long as once printed the line measures 10cm, you are good to go. Unfortunately the print was a bit bigger than a 8.5x11 paper so I had to go to staples and print it out on 8.5x14 paper. Then simply cut it out and line up with the markings already present on the back/inside of the bumper cover. They are stamped in from the factory


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I blew the scale up to 140% before printing. If you measure the lines which say 100 that will help determine that the scale is correct. The scale of 100 is in millimeters so 100mm converts to 10cm on a ruler. As long as once printed the line measures 10cm, you are good to go. Unfortunately the print was a bit bigger than a 8.5x11 paper so I had to go to staples and print it out on 8.5x14 paper. Then simply cut it out and line up with the markings already present on the back/inside of the bumper cover. They are stamped in from the factory


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I figured it had to be milimeters. 135% did the trick on my system. Got it all put back together and now just to visist a dealer for the software download. As a car mechanic I guess I'm turning out to be a pretty OK lawyer. :cool:
 

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Can anyone give some guidance on this step of the instructions. I’m a bit confused as to which fuses I need to install.

Both positions, DF11 and DF18 on my Xc90 are empty. I believe from the instructions it wants you to install a 40amp fuse in the Df11 spot.
But that’s where I’m confused. It says Note, if df18 is occupied than ensure a 40 amp fuse is mounted. So does that mean if it’s not occupied and is empty to just leave it empty? And only use the 40amp fuse in the df11 spot. Only one 40amp fuse was included with the module in the bag.







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Hey Frank, what did you end up doing for this step? I assume since your DF18 was empty, you put the fuse in the DF11 position?
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Hey Frank, what did you end up doing for this step? I assume since your DF18 was empty, you put the fuse in the DF11 position?
So when I did my install, both slots (DF11 and DF18) were empty in my fuse box.

When I ordered all my parts, the kit only came with one 40amp fuse included.

I went to my local dealer and purchased the 25amp fuse for a couple dollars.

I ended up installing the 40amp fuse in slot DF11 and I installed the 25amp fuse in slot DF18.

All has been working great.




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So when I did my install, both slots (DF11 and DF18) were empty in my fuse box.

When I ordered all my parts, the kit only came with one 40amp fuse included.

I went to my local dealer and purchased the 25amp fuse for a couple dollars.

I ended up installing the 40amp fuse in slot DF11 and I installed the 25amp fuse in slot DF18.

All has been working great.




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Oh, I received the hitch today and the 25 amp fuse was included together with the ziptie thats mentioned in step 29 of the instructions
Font Material property Electric blue Parallel Engineering


Product Purple Font Bicycle handlebar Violet
 

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EDITED to reflect answers to questions in previous posts

I'm comparing the factory Volvo hitch to the Stealth Hitch - is anyone bothered by the fact that the Stealth Hitch inserts their steel towbar into the air gap between the bumper and frame? Should I be worried about that?

Thanks for any thoughts.
I wouldn’t consider the Stealth Hitch for that reason. Volvo had already designed the crush bar to absorb impact and throwing something else behind it that would obstruct its energy absorption capacity with additional rigidity to it would force additional energy to be transferred to the frame of your XC90 in a collision. It’s like saying you want to reinforce your Volvo’s crumple zones up front.

I have personal experience from having been rear ended and having the original v1 Volvo tow bar (non folding) for our 2017 XC90. The Volvo tow bar worked beautifully in the collision by absorbing the impact and fully deforming. It saved the unibody from any impact damage.

Volvo designed it as a replacement to the crush bar that the Stealth tucks under. Knowing the the crush bar and Volvo tow bars serve the same design purpose in a collision I wouldn’t want to alter its function by essentially modifying it by adding to it.

Here’s what my Volvo tow bar looked like after the collision. It bent forward and “hinged” on the attachment points to the unibody fully saving the crush boxes in the unibody. When our T8 was out on a the measuring rack it was to within 1mm of spec on length measurements. It was astounding and I was thrilled that it was just cosmetic damage except for the tow bar. The impact was at around 40mph.



Here’s the other car.


Out of it I was happy to get upgraded to the Volvo foldable tow bar.
 
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