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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The caR is going to the shop next week for a variety of stuff which will ultimately require an alignment.

I have a new set of TME springs and am debating having the shop do them while they've got the car. I don't have a new set of Nivomats...and am debating the pros and cons of installing the springs anyways.

Pros...I get the new springs on the car. I'm suspecting that the car will drive better...and then I won't have to look at them on the shelf every day and drool.

Clearly, one con is that when I do decide to pony up and replace the shocks (which are due anyways...) I'll have to pay for all of the same labor again on the springs and alignment.

Has anybody ever installed a new set of springs over old shocks before? Do the new springs put additional stress on the shocks? I'd think they'd actually put less stress on the shocks, as the stiffer spring will absorb more of the impact and require less dampening with less distance to travel. Is this logic sound?

Other than the duplicate expense of someday paying for the same labor to replace the shocks, are there any other downsides? Clearly, what I SHOULD do is shell out another $1200 for new shocks and struts and do it all at once...but that'll make this already expensive adventure even more ridiculous. Going with a non-Nivomat is tempting...but I'm not ready to sidestep the 4C completely just yet.

Thoughts?
 

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If your going to spend the money getting the spring installed you will want to also just take the dive and buy new shocks as well.

It will cost you more to two the same job twice.
 

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Well you have other components (e.g. control arms) to check during install, those may bring additional cost.
 

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hey while I've got you all talking suspension shops, do most of the places like Midas and firestone have spring compressor machines? I've got Sachs I need to put on the Saab, and paying them to do that might be worth my time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If your going to spend the money getting the spring installed you will want to also just take the dive and buy new shocks as well.

It will cost you more to two the same job twice.
I can appreciate that. But the 4C shocks and struts are $300ish each...not exactly cheap.

Anyways...I'm aware of the alternatives, I'm more interested in the downsides (other than cost) to driving around with the TME springs on the original shocks.
 

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Lowering springs will wear out old struts/shocks faster than stock so yes, I would absolutely suggest doing them all at once. I would wait for extra funds if cost is an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Lowering springs will wear out old struts/shocks faster than stock
Why is this, necessarily? How do you think it compares to a spring with ride height comparable to stock, but with a stiffer spring rate? My simple logic says that with less total spring oscillation, the distance traveled by the shock is less. Given the same dampening power (or whatever the unit of that is) this setup would require an increased dampening force per unit of volume (or surface area) of the shock. Is this logic sound? And does it correlate that the shock would wear faster? Could it be true that with a stiffer spring, doing a more effective job of actually suspending the car, there'd be less force needed by the shock to dampen...since the mass of the car wouldn't have accelerated as much with the stiffer spring?

I'm curious about the physics of it.

EDIT: Interesting thread I found on a Miata forum. http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=30485
 

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Why is this, necessarily? How do you think it compares to a spring with ride height comparable to stock, but with a stiffer spring rate? My simple logic says that with less total spring oscillation, the distance traveled by the shock is less. Given the same dampening power (or whatever the unit of that is) this setup would require an increased dampening force per unit of volume (or surface area) of the shock. Is this logic sound? And does it correlate that the shock would wear faster? Could it be true that with a stiffer spring, doing a more effective job of actually suspending the car, there'd be less force needed by the shock to dampen...since the mass of the car wouldn't have accelerated as much with the stiffer spring?

I'm curious about the physics of it.

EDIT: Interesting thread I found on a Miata forum. http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=30485
My reasoning is that if it's a lowered spring, the shock is now already in the compression stage at all times (how much depends on how much lower the spring is than stock). I always felt that when I used to lower a car and replace the stock shocks, those new shocks would wear much faster than if the ride height was still stock.
 

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I can appreciate that. But the 4C shocks and struts are $300ish each...not exactly cheap.

Anyways...I'm aware of the alternatives, I'm more interested in the downsides (other than cost) to driving around with the TME springs on the original shocks.
surprisingly no one asked about mileage on said vehicle.

IMHO, you doing springs you should do spring seats too, have strut bearings available in case you need them, maybe ok depending on your miles. I did my shocks today, they looked like they were OEM fromday one. I changed out the strut bearing, strut mounts and new struts up from suprised it lasted 164k.

costs of 4$c over haul
fronts $545
rear $525
strut bearing and spring seat pair of each $200
Labor $200-300, rear is a MFer. I did it so it was free
Sum recalibration $100 dealer, or free if you have your own dice like me.

$1265 is a lot of cash to fork out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
surprisingly no one asked about mileage on said vehicle.

IMHO, you doing springs you should do spring seats too, have strut bearings available in case you need them, maybe ok depending on your miles. I did my shocks today, they looked like they were OEM fromday one. I changed out the strut bearing, strut mounts and new struts up from suprised it lasted 164k.

costs of 4$c over haul
fronts $545
rear $525
strut bearing and spring seat pair of each $200
Labor $200-300, rear is a MFer. I did it so it was free
Sum recalibration $100 dealer, or free if you have your own dice like me.

$1265 is a lot of cash to fork out.
Exactly. The car has 140k on it...I expect I'll do the shocks in the next year...I suspect they're original. In that case, I'm leaning towards leaving the TMEs in my garage until then. :(

i've got the xc90 spring seats here as well...so they can sit.
 

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Exactly. The car has 140k on it...I expect I'll do the shocks in the next year...I suspect they're original. In that case, I'm leaning towards leaving the TMEs in my garage until then. :(

i've got the xc90 spring seats here as well...so they can sit.
you should do the shocks, since eventually they will fail. Mine fronts failed at 164,500, rears @ 162,000k. Looked like all the previous owners never changed the strut mounts or bearings out. when i took them out both fronts were totally shot. you could not really tell either. car was aligned and it never showed it was busted. the center section of the strut mounts were just totally separated from the rest of the mount.

i'd take off working, near the end of their working life shocks and re sell them. it will be perfect for someone who is looking for a cheapo quick fix.
 
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