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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Friends,

I have a host of codes, and I'm concerned that my Volvo has reached the end of the line. 2005 XC90 2.5T with 180k.

The big ones seem to be:
ECM 640c Turbo control - Signal too high
ECM 4400 Fuel Level Sensor - Signal too low
ECM 440B Fuel Level Sensor - Signal Missing

My question to you is - is it worth DIYing the solution, or do I scrap it and move on to my next one?

The problem showed up out of nowhere - car won't stay running at idle or high rpm. The one time I got it going again, I had issues with the turbo I believe, as it took a long time after 40 mph to get up to any kind of meaningful speed.

Anyone have any experience with these codes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
For reference the other codes are:
ECM 120D Air mass - Signal too low
ECM 433C Leakage detection module, pump - Signal too high
ICM 1A56 Communication with MP2 control module Signal missing
BCM-0109 Communication between control units Communicational problems with SAS, internal fault
CCM 0060 Damper motor, defroster internal fault
CCM 0063 Damper motor, temperature right internal fault
CEM 9C03 Antenna/light ring Signal missing
SAS 0007 Control module Internal fault
 

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I don't know if condolences are in order or not but good luck. I hope you can keep it on the road.

Sent from the demons in my head
 

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Did all these problem codes come at once? How old is your battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
These are all the codes I have right now, battery is older, but I haven't ever had an issue with it not starting.
 

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My observations below:

ECM 640c Turbo control - Signal too high
Possible air leak

ECM 4400 Fuel Level Sensor - Signal too low, ECM 440B Fuel Level Sensor - Signal Missing
Driver side (LHD) sensor is acting up, could be wear marks on the rheostat. Some reference here- https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?135445-Fuel-Level-Sender

ECM 120D Air mass - Signal too low
Possible air leak

ECM 433C Leakage detection module, pump - Signal too high
Possible damaged leak diagnostic pump

ICM 1A56 Communication with MP2 control module Signal missing
Check CD player (not working today?)

BCM-0109 Communication between control units Communicational problems with SAS, internal fault, SAS 0007 Control module Internal fault
SAS likely needs replaced. AWD not working in this vehicle since when?

CCM 0060 Damper motor- defroster internal fault, CCM 0063 Damper motor- temperature right internal fault
Possible loss of DC power during operation, try a CCM calibration and see if it resolves. If this vehicle has heated seats, possible LIN2 bus corruption (failed seat heater) but try calibration first.

CEM 9C03 Antenna/light ring Signal missing
Bulb out on ignition switch (illuminated ring)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Reporting back in.

Looks like the 05 XC90 doesn't have a relay, so that's not a thing.

Replaced the left fuel level sensor per ggleavitt's recommendation. Same symptoms.
Replaced right fuel level sensor + fuel pump and assembly (assume that includes the leakage detection pump. Same symptoms.

Erased and re-ran codes. Got some new ones as well as the previous codes.
ECM 340C Inlet camshaft sensor - Signal too high
CEM 4A33 Fuel level sensor Open circuit or shorted to supply
CEM 4A37 Fuel level sensor Open circuit or shorted to supply

Here is my idiot question - why in the world could a fuel level sensor stop the engine from starting? If I just plug the electronics up to the old fuel pump, could I see it physically moving to see if it is at least getting power?

Found this video earlier that is helping me to think through the issues - but I'm wondering if VIDA is steering me wrong.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNhuDCVIydw

For those embarking on similar repairs - helpful hints:
- If replacing the fuel pump, you'll really prefer to take the all the middle row of seats out, it's much easier that way. You technically can do it with only removing the seat just behind the driver's, but unless you like working in small places, the extra three minutes to remove the seats will be worth it. If you unplug your battery before removing the middle seat, you won't have to worry about the SRS warning going off when you remove the middle seat. When you plug the battery back in, it will be looking for that connection though!
- Start with the driver's side fuel level sensor - unplug the black wire that runs into the tank, and tie a string on it firmly - I did two knots. You can use the string to thread the wiring back through the tank when you replace the fuel pump.
- If your tank is full, put a drip pan under your access point to the fuel level sensor - it will overflow and spill as soon as you undo your circular lock thingy.
- Use impact wrench on the seats - they are a b**** to get undone by hand. Mostly because of the angles.
 

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Reporting back in.
Replaced the left fuel level sensor per ggleavitt's recommendation. Same symptoms.
Replaced right fuel level sensor + fuel pump and assembly (assume that includes the leakage detection pump. Same symptoms.
Erased and re-ran codes. Got some new ones as well as the previous codes.
ECM 340C Inlet camshaft sensor - Signal too high
CEM 4A33 Fuel level sensor Open circuit or shorted to supply
CEM 4A37 Fuel level sensor Open circuit or shorted to supply

Here is my idiot question - why in the world could a fuel level sensor stop the engine from starting? If I just plug the electronics up to the old fuel pump, could I see it physically moving to see if it is at least getting power?
Think you need to do some more investigating on these “new” codes. You have VIDA, everything that's listed has a fault and troubleshooting section. I really don't want to give you 'pat" answers, neither one of us will be happy since you are in front of the vehicle and I'm not.

Last codes note no tank sensors (L or R) as reading in the CEM, either an open in supply voltage from CEM to sensor or open in return path. Connection issue perhaps? Same may be true for your ECM340C, could check the camshaft position sensor connector on the intake side (front of vehicle), see if there's a problem.

Assuming you did the pump (?) and sender, validating all the electrical connections is good place to start. Certainly no reason you cannot try to connect the old pump, see if you have functional connectivity there.

If you have more codes, I'm happy to read them and give my interpretation but that's normally as far as I go unless I know 100% what your issue is (in this case I do not, but think you have a few things going on as noted earlier).

Take a look at all of your codes, either double click on the error in VIDA or walk them through viewing in "Fault Tracing/Diagnostic Trouble Codes and Associated Procedures", paying special attention to Condition and Symptoms. Immediately below the code description line is the troubleshooting link. Here you'll see some procedures to validate the issue and/or resolve the problem.

I think your answer is in VIDA, have a good look at ALL of your codes, write them down including impacts, build a picture for what the vehicle thinks is wrong and if any common failure (module/connection) is presented.
 

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Did you make sure you have no intake leaks? Check the soft hose to the intercooler from the charge air pipe. They get oil soaked and develop leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
@ggleavitt Thank you for the guidance. Still learning how to diagnose and resolve these issues - up to this point I haven't messed with fuel or electrical issues, and my experience is predominately mechanical - suspension, timing belt, etc. I do appreciate all you contribute around here - and for your support. In fact, I didn't even know VIDA had the troubleshooting / resolution section you referred to!

I've got a multimeter, and I'm lucky enough to have a 2nd vehicle that I can use to grab groceries. When I get it fixed, I'll let everyone know how it turned out.

@tech I haven't checked that, but I'll be sure to! Thank you for the suggestion!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Got the vehicle towed to the mechanics - failed both wet and dry compression tests. 0 compression on 4 out of 5 cylinders.

Without tearing into it, they don't know how much work to say will be involved, but estimated $4-5k. So looks like that's it.

Am I throwing in the towel too early on a vehicle with 180k miles?

Do you folks have any recommendations on parting it out? All my other vehicles have ended in some type of a loss due to accidents. Looks like the local yard will offer a max of $600.

Also, if anyone is interested in the Thule / Volvo cross bars, it has that on there, which I obviously won't be needing!
 

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Got the vehicle towed to the mechanics - failed both wet and dry compression tests. 0 compression on 4 out of 5 cylinders.

Without tearing into it, they don't know how much work to say will be involved, but estimated $4-5k. So looks like that's it.

Am I throwing in the towel too early on a vehicle with 180k miles?

Do you folks have any recommendations on parting it out? All my other vehicles have ended in some type of a loss due to accidents. Looks like the local yard will offer a max of $600.

Also, if anyone is interested in the Thule / Volvo cross bars, it has that on there, which I obviously won't be needing!
Sad to hear... Where are you located? I'm interested in the x bars...
 

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Have you considered putting a used engine in? Or, is the rest of the car shot, too?

Wait a minute, zero compression in 4 of 5 cylinders, and you were able to get it up to 40 MPH? Something doesn't make sense...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I got it up to 40 mph, after I got it started. Turns out I had an intake pipe disconnected, so it could have been that. Only other time that I've had issues with the turbo, that was the problem.

I wouldn't know the first thing about putting a used engine in there - but I'm willing to give it a shot. It's been a good car, and the suspension/frame are in good shape. Transmission has a slight slip in 4th, but its been consistent.

Should I get a second opinion?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I didn't notice it initially. :) Only noticed it after I tried to take apart things so I could test for spark. After that, same codes. Same behavior on starting.
 

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Should I get a second opinion?
Re-do the compression test. Then, blow compressed air into each cylinder (TDC on the compression stroke) and see where the leak is. (If you use a leak down compression tester you can do both at once.)
 

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Good luck!

I'm not a mechanic, but am fairly mechanically inclined and I am a auto-enthusiast. Although I can't offer you any advice that might get your car back on the road, I do appreciate your effort to keep a good car running. My 2010 XC60 T6 has 107k on it and runs well. Fortunately, I've been able to do many easy repairs myself, with a little help from YouTube and some very insightful second-opinions from non-Volvo employees. I really hope I can get 180k out of my Volvo, just as you have. In the end though, they are just modes of transportation and one can quickly invest more funds into a car than it is really worth. For a little more than you may have to spend on repairs, you could probably find a new vehicle, with lower miles, and fewer problems. Just my two cents.
Also, I doubt it'll work out, but Jasper has sold re-manufactured engines and transmissions for decades. I bought a Jasper for a light truck many years ago and that engine served me for 70k miles, without issue, right up to the point when the truck was destroyed in a wreck. Might be worth inquiring to see if they offer rebuilt Volvo engines...
I'm not suggesting you give up, because I wouldn't want to either, but the opportunity costs associated with something like this can soon exceed the financial costs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Per John's advice, I'm going to get it towed somewhere I can fuss with it on Friday. Will report back in. Even if I end up parting it out - I want to know what the heck happened!
 
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