Many people have had success attaching a stiff metal beam to the inside of the lip. I riveted an aluminum L-beam on mine and it worked great.

 

I did the same a while back....pics are probably archived...Aluminum L bracket and stainless steel fasteners...works like a charm!

 

EDIT:
$4.99 rivet gun from Harbor freight
$2.99 rivets (longer wider crush area-to disperse the tension better)
Drill and bit
1 bottle jack/jack stand
extra pr pliers.

and about 10 min on my back.. 4 total rivets.. = no more gaping maw!

be careful with that drill!

 

Strapped mine up.

 

I used the "quick and dirty method" as noted in #2: http://v70r.com/forums/topic/2010-bumper-replacement/

The plastic plugs hold really well and takes minutes to do. Just watch when you drill the holes that you don't hit any hoses or the radiator!

 

I used this:

http://www.3m.com/product/information/Dual-Lock-Reclosable-Fastener.html

It's high temp and a little goes a long way.

 

I have some of that, awesome stuff. Good for securing all types of stuff.

 

My car came with screws holding it from sagging.

They work, but are really ugly from the underside of the car (Where only I see it )

 

I have the same problem, most likely gonna strap mine.
Recently I came across a V70R owner and he told me he cut his low hanging section of the bumper out with Die Grinder, he made a template and marked off the low hanging area and trimmed it off and it has held up fine since 2007 he had a 2004 V70R.

 

well my quick and dirty way was to push it back up into the black little plastic holder .. there are 2 of them underneath ... it fixed one side and now it looks fine, would not notice it if you were not looking for it kind of thing

 

Mine was seriously 80 year old Walmart lady sagging - sandwished the bottom between two aluminum brackets - can see the lower bracket a bit - will paint it come summer, or go with a front lip from CFWerks... Will try to post pics one of these days...

 

My question was about the front lips and if just by fitting one of these, would it fix the sagging issues. I am going to get my front bar repaired as it has some other marks on it also and hopefully putting the bar in an oven and heating it might help return it to its teenage perky state!!

Regards,

Michael

 

Search for AthruC droopy bumper fix. There's a bunch of threads with pictures as to where to drill and attach the aluminum L beam. I would suggest removing the front bumper to do it. It's much easier wih it out and removing the bumper takes about 5 mins

 

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?101833

 

I'd take the bumper off before drilling around too. If it's only slightly misshapen, use a heat gun, then prop it up with some blocks while it cools.

Problem with the stiff metal beam fix is that if you accidentally pull into another parking stop by mistake again, you might pull the whole bumper off instead...or at least pop it off from the side anchor points.

Just an FYI, there is a small curve and lip at the bottom of a brand new bumper that is not sag. It was designed to follow the curve around the larger inlet. It is this lower clearance that catches on concrete parking blocks and deforms as you back out.

 

It was designed to follow the curve around the larger inlet.

So bizarre! It's not like it looked good, nor does it make much sense for the inlet as it could have been 100% straight (ie; droop fix). You certainly can't see it at certain angles either. And that 3/8 lip at the edge makes it worst and catches on everything.

 

Yeah, I thought that extra lip should have been trimmed off or at least molded completely flat. There's plenty of room between the bottom lip and the inside wall of the inlet anyway.

At first when I looked at my bumper, I thought it was droopy then I noticed it was symmetrical and realized it was designed that way.

 

I used two drywall bolts (the kind with the folding wingnuts that open once pushed through the hole). Had to drill two holes. I had a couple of spare door strike plates with predrilled holes that I secured with the drywall bolts, and that's what "pulls up" on the bottom lip of the bumper.

 

Thanks for the replies guys!

 

might push them out too much.. its kind of thick.. apox 1/4 inch(at least the stuff I have) its strong tho.. Keeps stuff attached tho, i.e. my tactical rig(no not car related of course) and that has seen some really harsh conditions.

but if we are talking about the same stuff, it might push out the winglets too much and mess with the flow of the lines.. for lack of a better explanation.

 

I considered that and then remembered how big the gap is between parts of the winglet and the bumper. The ideal attachment would use the recessed surfaces as mount points, so that the flush surfaces remain flush.

I will take some pics and post to show what I mean.

 

cool cake, I'm curoius to see. even tho I will never be able to put a sport kit on my caR let alone winglets.. My drive way would eat them.. My Audi had to be pulled out sideways everyday.. What a pain... and it wasn't stupid slammed or anything..

sorry back to topic. I jsut used that 3M product to secure my new Phuzzy HD TCV, and it works like a charm. I have some extra if you need some I can mail it to you.

EDIT: its clear/white tho..