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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Getting the clunking sound and feel over the bumps. Problem is far worse going over bumps with the wheels turned one way.<p>I just wanted to make sure that it was the stabilizer end links to blame..
 

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Could be, but could also be a combination of that and/or ball joints, inner/outer tie rods. Grab your wheel at 9:00 and 3:00 and see if there is movement. Also do the same at 12:00 and 6:00. You may have worn suspension parts you're not aware of, especially if this happens most often while you're turning. Parts can be found here:<br><A HREF="http://www.fcpgroton.com/CSV70/csv70suspension.htm" TARGET="_blank">http://www.fcpgroton.com/CSV70/csv70suspension.htm</A>
 

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Re: Is it always the stabilizer bar links? (eurotrash_pd)

If you have the car on a lift, take a pry bar and try to "wiggle", the joint back and forth.<br>If they DO wiggle and are loose they ARE bad.<br>Noises from the front can also be a cracked strut mount (visible) or a cracked spring seat. (not always visible)<br>How many miles on your car?<br>(You guys really should always post your mileage when asking a tech question)<br>Control arms (with the ball joints) are usually the last to make noise.
 

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I had a lot of clunking from my car, and all it required was the bushings and all rubber parts to be oiled. It doesn't take long to do and my dealer did it for free. If it the sound still doesnt go away, then I guess you should follow the advice given above.<p>If any rubber parts that hold your suspension together are dried out, you will get a lot of clunking.
 

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Re: Is it always the stabilizer bar links? (eurotrash_pd)

I had a very bad clunking sound and it was a combination of the stablizer bar links on both sides, the ball joint on the drivers side (although I replaced both sides) AND THE CV JOINT ON THE PASSENGERS SIDE. I did all this three weeks ago and "silence is golden". My C70 has 130,000 miles on it. I don't know why the CV joint went bad. There were no cracks in the boot and it was full of grease, but had a tremendous amount of play and there was a rattle type clunking in corners when I turned left. The driver's side CV joint was fine, even though the ball joint was terrible on that side.
 

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Re: Is it always the stabilizer bar links? (CDR114)

CV joints just go bad in all cars.<p>TOKEN....again, you do not "JUST LUBE" the bushings, that is NOT the fix. that's only temporary, you MUST get another dealer as for what you continue to say about what <B>they</B> say and do, they're absolute morons who know absolutely<B> nothing </B>about repairing these cars
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: Is it always the stabilizer bar links? (JRL)

I had a good mechanic put it on a lift for inspection. He couldn't find anything that seemed wrong <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>My records indicate that the stabilizer links were replaced 20000 km. ago. so it must be something else..<p>Would inner tie rods cause this noise?
 

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This is the same problem I was facing. The mechanic will only look at what you tell him (usually).<p>Just tell him to give it a complete once over. He will charge you for his labour, but he needs to drive it himself (perferably with you in the car) and you can show him the noise. It can get very expensive just trying to find a problem, never mind fixing it!
 

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You have to physically take the stablizer endlinks, grabbing them and trying to move them sometimes to see if they are worn. I changed all of my front suspension parts...struts, spring seats, strut mounts, strut tower mount and IPD sways and still had clunking. You would think that in the process of doing all of this someone would notice (namely me) the bad endlinks....but no. Once I grabbed them and was able to move them, I realized what was wrong and changed them out with IPD HD's. No clunking or other issues since. <p>By the way, regular 'ole Volvo endlinks are known to wear out BEFORE 20,000Km's. They are just not good...and then if you add extra torque to them by getting stiffer stuff up front, such as swaybars, you're asking for them to wear out even faster. Replace with IPD's HD's or even better, Slater's new endlinks. You can find his stuff here (warning: sort of expensive): <A HREF="http://www.quickbrickmotorsports.com" TARGET="_blank">http://www.quickbrickmotorsports.com</A>
 

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They'll move from side to side and up and down at one or both joints. What typically makes one think they're okay is that due to the torque on them from being connected to the swaybar, they seem tight and okay. Just grab one of them and see if you can budge it at all...pulll hard, and then push on it in all directions. If you can move it then it's no good and most likely the reason for the clunking.
 
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