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I know this is a brand new product, but I'd be really curious to hear about anyone installing it. My factory torque mount + bushing seem fine. But I've been following threads that point to this as a weak spot. I feel like Volvo engineered it as such because making the rod too "stiff" would result in way too much vibration back to the steering wheel / cockpit.

IIRC people who have put the other hard poly bushings in have a bit more "tingling" in the steering wheel. But most who went "stiff" did so for autocross or something else, no?

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/21549/139884-hd-billet-polyurethane-upper-engine-torque-mount-p3

Not a bad price if you ask me considering what the part does and how nice it looks in the engine bay.
 

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I do not like being Negative Nancy, but I see no value in this other than the bling it brings to the engine compartment.

Having said that, I will admit that the first thing I did to my first car was install chrome valve covers and a chrome air filter housing.
 

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I do not like being Negative Nancy, but I see no value in this other than the bling it brings to the engine compartment.

Having said that, I will admit that the first thing I did to my first car was install chrome valve covers and a chrome air filter housing.
I'm sure you haven't used billet and poly bushings for engine mounts in the past then. The shifting will be very responsive compared to the stock OEM. I am going to get one soon. I have the powerflex bushing in the OEM, but know IPD'S will be a much better option.
 

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I had (still have, though the P80 isn't my daily anymore) both the upper and lower poly torque mounts from IPD on my P80. There was a noticeable difference during shifts, but I should also note that the rubber in the original upper mount was completely sheared and non-functional when I replaced it so even a stock replacement would have improved things at that point. I used the IPD mount because my policy is always to replace any broken part with a heavier duty replacement if possible.

There is definitely more vibration in the cabin with the IPD poly mounts - it's not by any stretch teeth-rattling, but you definitely feel the engine. One trick I've heard of is to leave the mount loose and have a buddy sit in the car with it running and in gear and his foot on the brake, then tighten the mount down. I didn't do that, so I don't know for certain how helpful it is but supposedly that helps reduce vibration coming through when you're stopped in gear during normal driving.

As for me, the rubber in the upper mount of my T6 is getting a bit age cracked, so I'll be ordering this from IPD soon and trusting that the inherent balance and smoothness of the inline six will keep things reasonable.

To be clear, I don't think there's anything "wrong" with the factory setup. It's just that the rubber ages and it's generally an 8 to 10 year expected life before the rubber just gets age brittle and eventually cracks. Like Dyno, I would not expect much practical difference between the IPD poly mount and a brand new factory mount. The difference will be that in 10 years the poly mount will still be solid and the factory mount will need new rubber.

I'm still going to get the IPD mount though. 🙂
 

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Well I just ordered one, definitely looks like a solid upgrade over the OEM one. Will be a nice 100k service item for me.
 

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Well I just ordered one, definitely looks like a solid upgrade over the OEM one. Will be a nice 100k service item for me.
I was definitely looking into ordering one as well. Please report back with results! The biggest issue would be drivability and how much of an impact it has on vibration at a red light.
 

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Keep in mind that any individual motor mount upgrade, especially one that's significantly more rigid than stock, might very well accelerate wear on the other motor mounts. While I can't say this will be the case with the Volvo, it's something I've experienced on other cars, as the factory motor mounts were designed to work together, and when one is replaced by one that is significantly harder, others end up absorbing the energy and movement of the engine torquing over, especially if that harder mount become some kind of fulcrum that causes the other mounts to move in ways they weren't quite designed for. I'm not sure if I'm describing the physics correctly, but whatever the reason, the fact remains that often individual motor mount fixes only yield temporary improvements and can accelerate wear on the remaining mounts. That having been said I was pretty happy with my individual torque mount insert, even if the drivetrain lash did worsen again over time.
 

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Looking at buying one too. The powerflex race is not enough and it is just for the front(big part of it). ultimately, the other bushes will suffer so go for this
I will end up to buy it when I go to the IPD event on May 18th
 

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I do not like being Negative Nancy, but I see no value in this other than the bling it brings to the engine compartment.

Having said that, I will admit that the first thing I did to my first car was install chrome valve covers and a chrome air filter housing.
They increase response/sharpness by a lot. They work wonders on P2's, that said they also increase cabin vibration, especially if you have an auto.
 

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Stiffer bushings do not/cannot change how quickly the transmission shifts or how an engine reacts to throttle inputs. You're just feeling it more.

One man's responsiveness is another man's clunk.
 

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Stiffer bushings do not/cannot change how quickly the transmission shifts or how an engine reacts to throttle inputs. You're just feeling it more.

One man's responsiveness is another man's clunk.
Just chiming in to reiterate that I agree with Dyno.

I like the IPD poly mounts in my P80, as I said above, but their chief advantage is that the polyurethane is more durable and less prone to age degradation than the rubber used in the stock torque arm. If you've got a worn out stock bushing with a lot of lash, it can feel a lot better but it's not going to improve responsiveness or shift speed.
 

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Stiffer bushings do not/cannot change how quickly the transmission shifts or how an engine reacts to throttle inputs. You're just feeling it more.

One man's responsiveness is another man's clunk.
It does change the throttle response, the whole drive-line has play, tightening it up means less play (As little as it is, 1/2 inch or so), less play means sharper response. I've done this more times than I can count on Volvo's 5 cylinders. It's not something that's just in the head.

To clarify it does not reduce shift time, no one here has made that claim.
 

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Stiffer bushings do not/cannot change how quickly the transmission shifts or how an engine reacts to throttle inputs. You're just feeling it more.

One man's responsiveness is another man's clunk.
It does change the throttle response, the whole drive-line has play, tightening it up means less play (As little as it is, 1/2 inch or so), less play means sharper response. I've done this more times than I can count on Volvo's 5 cylinders. It's not something that's just in the head.

To clarify it does not reduce shift time, no one here has made that claim.
It can't change throttle response because driveline lash doesn't factor into throttle response. Throttle response is the lag between the throttle opening and the engine making more power. How solidly the engine is mounted into the chassis simply does not come into play.

A driver's *perception* of responsiveness can be changed by the mount because more vibration is coming into the cabin but actual measurements with instrumented testing will show zero difference.
 

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It can't change throttle response because driveline lash doesn't factor into throttle response. Throttle response is the lag between the throttle opening and the engine making more power. How solidly the engine is mounted into the chassis simply does not come into play.

A driver's *perception* of responsiveness can be changed by the mount because more vibration is coming into the cabin but actual measurements with instrumented testing will show zero difference.
You are correct, I should have been more clear. It's not perception, it is physically altering the responsiveness of engine because the tension in the drive line is increased. The actual throttle cable and body are not actually effected.

The same can be said for thicker sway bars, cornering becomes sharper and defined because there is less sway because of the increase in rigidity.
 

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You are correct, I should have been more clear. It's not perception, it is physically altering the responsiveness of engine because the tension in the drive line is increased. The actual throttle cable and body are not actually effected.

The same can be said for thicker sway bars, cornering becomes sharper and defined because there is less sway because of the increase in rigidity.
I still have to disagree. The engine's responsiveness is unchanged.

To the extent that there is less driveline "wind-up" (for lack of my remembering the proper term) the engine's power does get transferred to the ground a bit better, but in terms of actual, measurable differences in performance you need to get into the realm of 600+ horsepower drag cars and you need to have solid mounts all through the driveline, not just poly inserts for an upper torque arm.

I'm don't disagree that the car will feel different with the poly torque arm, but it's not going to result in any measurable performance difference. A butt dyno is highly susceptible to placebo effect and that's what we're dealing with here.

And bear in mind that I'm saying all this as someone with a lot of poly in the front of my old S70 and one of these new poly torque mounts on order for my S60.
 

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I still have to disagree. The engine's responsiveness is unchanged.

To the extent that there is less driveline "wind-up" (for lack of my remembering the proper term) the engine's power does get transferred to the ground a bit better, but in terms of actual, measurable differences in performance you need to get into the realm of 600+ horsepower drag cars and you need to have solid mounts all through the driveline, not just poly inserts for an upper torque arm.
Well on the P2R's, at least on mine it's really bad, to the point if that when I bought my R the upper TQ was completely disintegrated. The motor would actually have enough engine play where the front IC pipe clamp would chafe on the rad mounts. I definitely felt difference both when it would hard shift (Gotta love TF80's solenoid issues) and punching it from a stop on advanced. That's not to say it's far less noticeable on P3's and above.

Actual performance though, definitely not going to improve your 0-60 times on a Volvo Sedan. I do feel for anyone who thinks that LOL.
 

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Well on the P2R's, at least on mine it's really bad, to the point if that when I bought my R the upper TQ was completely disintegrated. The motor would actually have enough engine play where the front IC pipe clamp would chafe on the rad mounts. I definitely felt difference both when it would hard shift (Gotta love TF80's solenoid issues) and punching it from a stop on advanced. That's not to say it's far less noticeable on P3's and above.

Actual performance though, definitely not going to improve your 0-60 times on a Volvo Sedan. I do feel for anyone who thinks that LOL.
I'm not sure that a broken rubber mount is the best point of comparison though. The disintegrated torque mount on my P80 was bad too, when I got the IPD poly mounts for that and it did make big improvement. But s new stock rubber mount would have made just as much difference compared to the disintegrated one I think.

I went with the poly so I wasn't replacing the rubber mount every 50,000 miles and in that capacity it's great. I don't think there is much difference between a brand new stock mount and a brand new poly mount in terms of how responsive things feel. The difference comes in 5 to 10 years when the stock had disintegrated and the poly is still solid.

🙂
 

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I'm not sure that a broken rubber mount is the best point of comparison though. The disintegrated torque mount on my P80 was bad too, when I got the IPD poly mounts for that and it did make big improvement. But s new stock rubber mount would have made just as much difference compared to the disintegrated one I think.

I went with the poly so I wasn't replacing the rubber mount every 50,000 miles and in that capacity it's great. I don't think there is much difference between a brand new stock mount and a brand new poly mount in terms of how responsive things feel. The difference comes in 5 to 10 years when the stock had disintegrated and the poly is still solid.

🙂
I completely agree, unfortunately with P2's there is a design flaw were the OEM ones go bad after 10k miles or so. Most P2 AWD/R guys buy a poly because they don't fail year over year, or they get an OE one from FCP with a lifetime warranty and exchange it. The same goes with the lower TQ mount on the Rs, mine goes once a year (10-12k miles).

I figured the P3's probably were going through mounts at the same rate.
 

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I completely agree, unfortunately with P2's there is a design flaw were the OEM ones go bad after 10k miles or so. Most P2 AWD/R guys buy a poly because they don't fail year over year, or they get an OE one from FCP with a lifetime warranty and exchange it. The same goes with the lower TQ mount on the Rs, mine goes once a year (10-12k miles).

I figured the P3's probably were going through mounts at the same rate.
It's a shame there's not a poly option for the lower mount on the P2 and P3 cars like there was/is for the P80 if you're going through lower mounts that fast too.
 

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Hayden Cooler for 2004 s80

It does change the throttle response, the whole drive-line has play, tightening it up means less play (As little as it is, 1/2 inch or so), less play means sharper response. I've done this more times than I can count on Volvo's 5 cylinders. It's not something that's just in the head.

To clarify it does not reduce shift time, no one here has made that claim.
Been doing some research on Hayden coolers. Will such a cooler help with delayed shifting from park to drive after the transmission has heated up in stop and go driving in the city? Car is a 2004 S80 AWD.

Thanks
 
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