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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

Since I bought my R I've noticed a "jiggling" vibration noise coming from what seems to be the front-right of the vehicle under harsh bumps - of which there are a LOT on the crappy roads of Pittsburgh...

I finally got around to checking it out, and have discovered that the front-right sway bar endlink is loose at the upper end where it mounts to the strut. Now, I'm not getting a "clicking" sound as I've read here on the forum, but more of a low-to-mid frequency vibration noise. I've heard noises like this before from end-links when I was a technician, but also know it can be made from a worn engine/trans mount.

Now, my R has an IPD sway bar in the front (not sure on the rear - didn't get back there yet.) So my question is can I use OEM sway bar endlinks on the IPD sway bar? I've read here that the IPD end links are, uh, crap... I can get Moog end links from Advanced Auto at a discount ('cause I work there part-time) - will these fit the IPD sway bar?

I have no need for high-end performance parts for the daily-driver grocery-getter daycare runner car, plus as I've begun noticing a puddle of OIL beneath the car, I suspect I'm due to reseal an angle gear kinda soonish... Appointment scheduled for next week...

Thanks for the help.

Jeff
 

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Yes, any sway bar end link will work with IPD sways. Only thing different is the thickness of the IPD sway bar vs. OEM, it all still mounts the same.
 

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Yes, any sway bar end link will work with IPD sways. Only thing different is the thickness of the IPD sway bar vs. OEM, it all still mounts the same.
+1 and I have even heard oem end links on upgraded swaybars have a longer lifespan than aftermarket.
 

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$22 bucks is cheap.
I did a little side by side comparo with these HD Meyles vs. OEM and I was surprise at the differences. The Meyles are more robust at the link ends. The center is still about the same.
 

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At 30k, I ran HD iPD links with iPD sways and they lasted ~20k miles (kept the original OEM in case). Got it replaced under warranty, then it went bad again 50k miles later, went back to my original OEM links with the beefy iPD sways, lasted 10k miles. I'm replacing them with HD links.

Next time I would go TKI.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
try going over the noisy road bits in "advanced" mode, and see if the suspension noise is gone ...
A fascinating question.... and a good one.

The answer is yes - the noise more-or-less goes away in Advanced mode. Does this mean that the shocks need replaced?


I just bought the car, and the dealer was unable to get a service history on the vehicle. So I really have no idea how old they are, or if they've ever been replaced...

Thanks for the tip though.

Jeff
 

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How old is the sway bar? If the bushings are not lubricated regularly, they can wear and begin clunking over bumps.

Also, I 2nd the Meyle HD endlinks. I've found them to last longer than the IPD bits at a fraction of the price.
 

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I've been running advance sways with OEM end-links for a year and half now, no issues but my end-links are 40k miles old - so yes, OEM end-links will last a while on aftermarket sways no issues.

If you're running in advance and the noise somewhat goes away, it is an indication that your struts are going bad, not definite, but just one of those signs. I'm in the same boat, I have noise going over bumps but when in advance it goes away - I'm buying new struts, end links and maybe LCA's (don't need it, but will give me peace of mind) soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Finally got around to ordering the endlinks from fcpeuro. I also ordered a control arm and balljoint from them as well - all Meyle parts. Cost me $149 with free shipping. Not bad considering the dealership quoted me $600+. They also said it would need aligned (another $100) though my personal experience tells me it really shouldn't. The camber adjustments are often at the top of the strut, caster is adjusted at the strut mount (if adjustable at all) and toe is adjusted at the tie-rod, none of which I'll touch while replacing these parts.

I'll probably still get it checked just to be safe (and to preserve those 18" tires...)

Thanks for the info, folks.
 

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$149, with a new LCA and ball joint? You may be replacing that LCA in about 20k miles.....

EDIT: And no, you shouldn't need an alignment for just LCA and endlinks.
 

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If the bushings are not lubricated regularly, they can wear and begin clunking over bumps.

a couple of days ago i put these same new sway bar end links from FCP, on and i am hearing something bumping around under my feet... my sway bar bushings must be done....

funny how a new part finds a old one....
 

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How old is the sway bar? If the bushings are not lubricated regularly, they can wear and begin clunking over bumps.
How do you lube the stock sway bar bushings ?
 

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How do you lube the stock sway bar bushings ?
Stock bushings are rubber and bonded to the sway. Nothing to lubricate. Aftermarket sways need the lube.


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