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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Finally got the IPD rear camber bushings put in today. I did this in my driveway with pretty much common hand tools (exception to follow) and it took me about 4.5 hours from the time I jacked the car up to being completely done and driveable again. Now I can finally get my new tires mounted and get the caR aligned (hopefully correcting sidehop and other common steering/suspension issues for our caRs)

Disclaimer: I am not a professional auto mechanic, so I may not know all the proper terms for the parts I'm about to describe, but I'll do my best. ;)

Notables you'll need:
Floor jack and a pair of jackstands
10mm, 12mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm wrenches & sockets
5mm allen wrench for rear end links
You may want an impact wrench, but you probably won't be able to fit it in a lot of places, so don't worry if you don't have one.
Homemade press/pull kit consisting of: 7/16" threaded rod (1 foot should be adequate), 2 nuts and a few fender washers to match the rod, and a pusher (I used a cut off piece of pipe nearly the same diameter as the bushing) and receiver (I used a cut off piece of square stock with an internal space slightly larger than the bushing). I also used some scrap "u" stock of metal to brace the pusher and receiver. Pic of this setup:


1. Jack the rear end as high as you safely can and support it with jackstands. Remove the rear wheels. Lay down a blanket or pad under the rear end - you'll be there for a while.
2. Remove the two 10mm bolts on this switch arm on the front side of the rear suspension:

3. Remove this brake line bracket at the front of the rear wheel well with a 12mm wrench:

4. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack, and remove the arm connecting the rear hub to the frame forward, near where you just removed the bracket. I think this is call a drag link or something. They are 17mm bolts.


5. Remove the rear trailing arm, but take note of the inboard bolt position. This sets your rear toe.


6. Remove the rear sway bar from the end links (19mm wrench and 5mm allen wrench) and the bushings above the rear diff (18mm nuts). You don't have to completely pull this out from under the car, but you'll want to be able to move it around to keep it out of your way.

7. Support the lower control arm with the floor jack, and separate the lower control arm from the hub with the 17mm bolt.

8. Remove the upper bolt for the frame link at the inner part of the lower control arm (18mm nut and 17mm bolt I think), then separate the lower control arm inner attachment point by removing the long bolt (17mm I think).

Now you might want to temporarily reattach the lower control arm to the hub, so you can jack that assembly up and away from the bushing you are replacing.
9. Using the homemade press kit, press the old bushing from front to rear and drive it out the back of the housing.


10. Then press the new bushing in, again from front to rear. Notice that it will stick out approximately 1/8" to 1/4" on each side of the housing. Also note that IPD recommends the end of the bushing with the "deep groove" should face forward.



Now put everything back together in reverse order (long bolt through the new bushing first). Now you need to get re-aligned pronto!:D
 

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Amazing!!!

So your homemade bushing press...you just use a wrench and tigthen one side and it pushes out the bushing....kinda like how a C clamp would work??

I understand what you did but just cant see how mechanically the tool you made pushes/pulls out the bushing from that one pic... :confused:
 

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Well done Sir, well done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Amazing!!!

So your homemade bushing press...you just use a wrench and tigthen one side and it pushes out the bushing....kinda like how a C clamp would work??

I understand what you did but just cant see how mechanically the tool you made pushes/pulls out the bushing from that one pic... :confused:
Yes, thread a nut on either end of the stackup. Hold one nut with a wrench (mine happen to be 11/16") and turn the other one clockwise with another wrench. As the two nuts draw together, the driver (pusher) forces the bushing into the larger receiver. Just make sure the receiver and driver are each long enough (about 2-1/4" or so) and once the bushing is free from its housing, it will "fall" into the receiver. Then unthread one nut and remove the bushing from the receiver. To install the new bushing, it's nearly identical, still pressing in with the driver, but the receiver is mostly just there as a brace for the other end of the threaded rod. The concept is just like a C clamp but this works far better.
 

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Yes, thread a nut on either end of the stackup. Hold one nut with a wrench (mine happen to be 11/16") and turn the other one clockwise with another wrench. As the two nuts draw together, the driver (pusher) forces the bushing into the larger receiver. Just make sure the receiver and driver are each long enough (about 2-1/4" or so) and once the bushing is free from its housing, it will "fall" into the receiver. Then unthread one nut and remove the bushing from the receiver. To install the new bushing, it's nearly identical, still pressing in with the driver, but the receiver is mostly just there as a brace for the other end of the threaded rod. The concept is just like a C clamp but this works far better.
That's what I was picturing in my head. Thanks for the info! :) So simple, yet so effective.

This gives us hope....now that we know you don't need a dealer or a special press. I have had the bushing kit forever but havent done them. Firestone tried doing them but had an incorrect bushing press. And was directed to a dealer or indy shop by various people.
My rear camber has been like -2 degrees but have been rotating my Dunlop Star Specs every 5k miles or so and they seem to be wearing normally. That's why I haven't pursued the bushings again LOL. I think BVV told me they wouldnt do them :-/. With your ingenuity there is a simpler DIY option now!
 

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Ok, that homemade press kit is just awesome. Massive thumbs up.
 

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Agreed on the press!!! That is awesome! I remember working on a friends car 8 or so years ago and your inginuity would have shortened the project by days!!! Great install and write up!
 

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Great write-up, and :thumbsup: on the press.
 

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... I have had the bushing kit forever but havent done them.
Ditto that! Had them since the day I bought the car, well before I installed the lowering springs even!

To the OP, very ingenious, thanks for the info! You should mail me that tool now though, I'll have that money in your Paypal account shortly. :D ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ditto that! Had them since the day I bought the car, well before I installed the lowering springs even!

To the OP, very ingenious, thanks for the info! You should mail me that tool now though, I'll have that money in your Paypal account shortly. :D ;)
Right - as soon as I see the hundred bucks, it'll be in the mail! ;)
 

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very nicely done, I beleive this is the first DIY installation that I have see of the IPD rear camber kit. My hat's off to you sir
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
very nicely done, I beleive this is the first DIY installation that I have see of the IPD rear camber kit. My hat's off to you sir
Thanks! I'm definitely happy with the results :D
 

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Bravo!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Alignment complete

Got my alignment completed on Tuesday and it feels great. NO sidehop at all, but the caR still tends to track and follow curvature/slope of the road; I guess that's normal. I did get the new Conti ExtremeContact DWS tires installed at the same time, and between the bushings and new tires the ride does feel softer. I bet that's more tires than it is rear bushings, but that's my observation anyways. Here are the alignment printouts:

Before:


After:


Just to clarify, the "Before" is before the alignment, but with the new bushings. I did not get a printout from my last alignment, but I measured the rear camber myself and got approximately 1.5-2.0 degrees. So, it seems that the 1.5 degree correction claimed by IPD is right on.
 

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Nicely done! My Volvo "specialist" independent says he needs $1200 worth of tools to do it. I guess specialist is a relative term. After TME's and an alignment my rear camber #'s are -2.0 and -2.7 respectively and the rear is all over the place over bumps.. Methinks the alignment is wrong - or ouch! I have the ipd camber bushings but assuming +1.5 max correction that will put me at -0.5 and -1.2 respectively. Should I;

1. correct each side to the max or
2. Only correct the less severe side so both are equivalent at -1.2?

Opinions? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I replied to your PM also, but for the benefit of others, I'd just put 'em both in at max correction, get the alignment done by a reputable shop and not worry about the fact that they don't match up with each other exactly. That's what I did.

Edit: since this thread was resurrected, I figured I'd post an update- Several months but only a few thousand miles because I was in a military school. Still couldn't be happier. No sidehop, very straight and pretty smooth ride, and minimal tracking. IPD definitely put out a good product with this one and with a little ingenuity you can do this yourself in your driveway in a day.
 

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I have these too. They're great, and with your DIY guide, definitely mitigates the overall cost. Now if IPD would just lower the initial cost of buying the bushings themselves...
 

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I can't find the 'like' button for that press...

Seriously, awesome!! :D

-Steve
 
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