SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Bought the now old style IPD poly trans mount and installed it a few days ago with the softer large blue bushing. During install I snapped the head off one of the bolts on the small bushing end of the mount.:( I came across a thread on here where this happened to someone else and he was advised to drill it out and tap for a new bolt. I figured I would have my mechanic do it asap and that driving on the one bolt for a little while would be fine. :facepalm: This was a stupid idea and after enjoying some firm connected shifting for a few days it got loose today. The pics show the situation.


other side - this is the one I broke

this can't be good


How do I fix this? Do I just need to have the broken bolt drilled out and replaced? Is the damage to where the other bolt connects a major problem? Can this be welded on? What are my options? Any advice and direction is appreciated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,758 Posts
Ouch. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,269 Posts
where in upstate do you live?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
In Albany NY.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
745 Posts
It looks like you can take the mount back off and then you might be able to get some vise grips on the remaining threads of the bolt and back it out that way?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,846 Posts
First off, get your self a torque wrench.

I don't think that can be welded. I'd make up a couple plates that span the 2 holes, one on each side. Reuse the complete hole but get a longer bolt and add a nut. For the broken hole, just remove the threads and add a long nut and bolt. This should add enough structure to hold again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,698 Posts
oh F ME! I've already had a close call with a broken axle bolt, now you scare me away from doing a trans mount upgrade!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
919 Posts
I'm not an expert but I think anti-seize paste can throw off the torque specs by adding lube... If anyone uses those specs anyway. If you did do all to spec w/ extra lube you could pull out the aluminum threads but at least that's fixable with JB weld (I've been there).

What I've done for areas of concern is use loctite blue - when the bolt's already snug with a little stretch you really just want to keep it how it is so its tempting to twist more to add tension. But loctite can do this as well.

Alternately use a lock washer for areas that don't see lots of water (they may allow water to rust the outer threads but its still easy to remove)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
919 Posts
That said, what tool were you using that you put enough downward force on the bolt to crack the aluminum casing? You can get a 13mm deep 3/8 socket in there very cleanly
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,269 Posts
Looks like you need some of billy mays mighty putty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,698 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
That said, what tool were you using that you put enough downward force on the bolt to crack the aluminum casing? You can get a 13mm deep 3/8 socket in there very cleanly
During the install I just snapped just the head off the bolt furthest from the small bushing. The one right next to it was fine. At some point during my regular commute that damage to the casing occurred.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,698 Posts
hey that looks like my old commute!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,815 Posts
During the install I just snapped just the head off the bolt furthest from the small bushing. The one right next to it was fine. At some point during my regular commute that damage to the casing occurred.

Ohhh so no wonder it broke... You were putting all that force on the single mount point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,397 Posts
During the install I just snapped just the head off the bolt furthest from the small bushing. The one right next to it was fine. At some point during my regular commute that damage to the casing occurred.

Holy pickles Batman, that's quite the commute!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
I'm sorry this happened to you.



Some of the bolts on these cars do seize hard enough to break when you try to back them out. Happened to me last weekend when changing out one of the front ball joints. One of the 13mm bolts snapped off on removal, and I ended up buggering up the aluminum knuckle badly enough trying to extract it that I had to grab a replacement knuckle (fortunately I have a volvo only salvage yard less than 10 minutes from my house). From now on, I'll PB blast everything beneath the car before I attempt removal.

You might want to be careful about thread titles. Until I read into the thread, I had the impression that the failure was in the IPD part as opposed to an installation problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Next Step?

First off, get your self a torque wrench.

I don't think that can be welded. I'd make up a couple plates that span the 2 holes, one on each side. Reuse the complete hole but get a longer bolt and add a nut. For the broken hole, just remove the threads and add a long nut and bolt. This should add enough structure to hold again.

So what is the consensus on how to fix this? Our R's solution sounds good. Welding I gather is not a viable option because of the different materials used.

Also if I replace the upper engine mount http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5768/112517-polyurethane-upper-engine-stabilizer-mount-bracket will that increase or decrease the stress on the lower trans mount?

@Mike_VR6MT - I didn't consider that when naming the thread. Will keep that in mind. The IPD part did not break.
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top