SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, been watching this site for a while and even made an account a few months back but I could never activate it for some reason. Then after activating it I could not post anything, I e-mailed swedespeed and got no reply so I gave up....now I have this name under my girlfriends e-mail....whatever

Pretty cool forum, lots of honest and smart people on here. Also your average "no do this" "this would look better"....but what would a forum be without that :) Now for my hoopty

-04 s60r Flash green- MT
-Bought stock, added OBX catless with o2 spacer (no codes)
-IPD strut bar conversion, upper and lower poly mounts
-3" DP back exhaust (homemade :D )
-drop in filter with lid, hood padding, and rear strip removed

Now for my question... I don't want to make two threads so I will just use this one.
-My car seemed to tick more than I felt normal....ok so I listened to the injectors and the valve cover with a stethoscope, dubbed the injectors to be loud but the valves are def. louder. Checked and seemed to have plenty of bubbles on the dipstick, so I dropped the sump and replaced all o-rings (which didnt seem bad anyways) and resealed the pan (which did seep a little). The noise did not change at all :mad: I have not listened to any other volvos (2.5t) except for an xc70, which had more injector noise than valve noise. Is it just me being paranoid or because my hood padding being removed or..................There is a meet next sunday and their will supposedly be an R their...I will listen to his and see if there is any difference

One more thing....Is there a port on the head that I could use for oil pressure readings? I would like to hook one to the block and head for separate readings
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,407 Posts
The engine has solid tappets so it may need an adjustment. This is a big job as it requires changing the bucket tappet to change clearance. Clearance measurement and tappet change requires removing the top of head, CVVT units, and the cams. I can explain the process if you get serious about doing it.

Give me the details of the spacer that is working for your rear sensor please.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,477 Posts
Okay so get to the point...

Is it Flash Green/ Atacama????
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
rainwatermotorsports o2 spacer ran all the way in and turned to face the front of the car. Also did this on a 2012 GTi and have had no codes in 18k miles.

I dont know the interior names...but mine is tan...with a worn drivers seat and floor mat :mad:

Definitely want to fix this ticking, so I am up for the job...but would like to know roundabout prices for what i am getting into.
Is the lifter a bucket and shim design? Like old watercooled volkswagens?

On a sidenote, my AWD doesn't seem to work all the time.....I am seriously thinking about getting rid of it and being FWD only
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,261 Posts
Where are you from? And how about a pic? If the car is dirty just take it from farther away :)

How do you know the awd isn't working sometime?
My AOC pump is out on mine(have the replacement just too busy to change it) and fwd is fine and all but you get a lot more torque steer and front wheel hop in fwd only. That's just my experience.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Whats an AOC pump?
I think my DEM is bad, the car will start spinning the front tires and then instead of the rear coming in to help...my traction control shuts down power and the rear never engages....could be collar sleeve but everything worked a while back and haven't heard any noises from the angle gear to hint at a stripped sleeve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,739 Posts
Wait, are you sure your camRy is Flash Green? Last I've heard Toyota only did Aloe Green.



Give us something to look at!

Welcome to SS however!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,266 Posts
Did you happen to notice the excessive engine noise some time after you removed the hood blanket & rear weatherstrip?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
The noise has gradually increased overtime....It wasn't right after I removed the blanket or the strip. I cannot seem to find a good writeup on how to adjust these valves, but I have found out that I will probably need an extra cam cover to cut up and use as a hold down. After thinking about it, my noise sounds exactly like a honda that needs valves adjusted......

Something to look at....I had it on craigslist but probably wont be selling anymore




Also I live in GA....forgot to mention that for whoever asked..guess I should update my info
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,407 Posts
You don't need a head cut up to do valve adjust. You can fashion a cam hold down with perforated plumber's strap or similar. You just need to hold cam down and not be forceful with feeler gauges when measuring. It is also better that you have metric 25mm micrometer. You need a tappet organizer, a way to keep them, in order as you will remove all of them for this job. The tappets are one piece, the whole tappet is changed to do the adjustment. Very common design these days.

Intakes are set to 0.17 - 0.23 mm (.020 +/- 0.03mm), exhaust is 0.40mm with the same tolerance. Tappets are made in 0.02mm increments even numbers. Micrometer is good to have to measure tappets.

You get two of the same size tappets to use for all checks to avoid confusion. You make a sheet with intake and exhaust columns and tappet numbers 1-10.
Put the tappets into 1 and 2 of whichever bank you start with. Lay strap over the cam and secure cam with lobes 180 degrees away from tappets with the strap and two bolts. The Volvo tool uses a piece of plastic as the saddle sitting over cam to push it down. You will have to use spacers (washers) to keep cam down. Measure the clearance and write it down. Move to # 3 and 4 and repeat. do the whole set this way.
IMPORTANT: if the clearance is below spec the tappet needed goes down in dimension by the variance amount. If above spec the tappet goes up by the variance amount.
EXAMPLE: you use 16.12 pair of tappets, the clearance for 1 & 2 intake is .23mm and .26mm. The spec is .20mm. #1 needs 16.15, 16.16 is best (go snug when you have to round). You need 16.18 for #2.
3 & 4 intakes check .18 and .15 so you need 16.10 and 16.08 to increase the clearance on those.

You do the computations on each cylinder and then sort your existing tappets to see which ones will fill the need. I always allow exhaust to go 0.02mm smaller if I have a tappet on hand that is that dimension. The cam rides against the top of head and that actually increases the clearance bit when it is all said and done. If you doubt what I just said about cam, look at your cam bearing journals machined in head and top cover. The head will have oil deposits and the top cover will not. The valve springs apply the force up and that pushes the cam into top cover journals.
After the sorting then you have a list of the ones that you do not have on hand that will work and those you go to Volvo and get.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
. Are you saying to use the measurements of 2 equal tappets for reference on the others? That part confuses me..do I not just measure the clearance of each one, and then the measurement of the tappet itself. I'm sure it will make more sense when I get it apart..I just pray that this calms my noise down and is the real culprit, but seeing so little posts about valve adjustment gives me doubt

Just so everybody knows. When I do this I will be sure to have a very detailed DIY with tons of pictures and exact how-to's on every step
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,028 Posts
edit: don't want to hijack thead; text removed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,407 Posts
When I did classes on these engines and valve adjustment practical exercises were done way too many mistakes were made. The techs got confused using all the different tappets and keeping the computation frame of reference in their heads. Then when you were through you still ended up with a list of tappet needs and you sorted to get the right tappets. The tappets are marked for size on their underside adjacent to the stem that is ground to give the dimensional differences.
Using the same tappets gives you a consistency. IF you didn't have to remove ALL tappets to do the job it might be accomplished differently. If you are hunting for a single tap on a low mile engine I might do it differently. To do this on a higher mile motor where the clearances are almost assured to have more variance from desired you might as well go for the ideal clearance. The checking spec Volvo uses is a lot broader but the engine will have tapping with the allowable clearance instead of the ideal clearance on the wider spec for upper end. The exhaust stems get hot and grow and the wider clearance on those goes down substantially when engine is run hard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
^^^ you seem to know what your talking about...do you have torque specs and order on bolting back down the cams?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,407 Posts
OK, I guess the procedure needs discussion. The cams are removed after engine is run to the point where the crank mark and the cam marks are aligned with their indicators. Then T belt removed from cam gears, Locking tool fitted to back of cams, then CVVT's removed. Then you remove the top cover bolts. Then pry the top cover off without inserting anything into the opening gap between parts so as to cause harm to the sealing faces.
Now do all the adjustment steps.
Make sure the crank is still in correct alignment and then fit the lock tool to cams placed into the top cover after it is cleaned and sealant applied.
Fit top cover to head and then use two press tools to push the top cover down. The bolts are at great risk of pulling out threads if they are used to push the top cover down against the valve springs against the lobes that will have some of the valves off seats. The bolts install and tightening order is described as in even order working from inside to out. The bolt torque is 17 N-m or 13 ft-lbs . Then install the cam seals in all four places. Refit and time the CVVT and t belt.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top