SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Happened a couple times yesterday, for the first time. Weather was warm for my area, about 90*F. Car is an '05 V70R, with 78K miles. VIP plan expired last month . . . grrr.

First time was after the second stop during a series of errands. Dash lights lit up, & I heard one or two clicks from the front (and maybe front right under the dash?), but the motor would not crank.

Called a friend for a jump start, & while waiting tried to start it a couple dozen times. No go every time.

After hooking up jumper cables & charging from the second vehicle for about five minutes, the car started right up. Battery was 6.5 years old, so I installed a new one in the dealer's parking lot & figured I was good to go.

20 minutes after installing the new battery, same deal again: click, but no start. Jumping from a second vehicle had no effect this time (didn't think it would, with a new battery).

Pushing it & popping the clutch got it started alright.

This morning, after sitting overnight in a cool garage, it starts just fine.

Assuming it may be a problem with an electrical connection or cable, this morning I checked resistances at all the locations I could easily reach. Deducting the 0.3 ohms between the meter leads alone, I measured resistances of 0.0 to 0.1 ohms at these locations:

from the positive battery-terminal cable-end, to the positive terminal behind the fuse box in the engine compartment;
from the negative battery-terminal cable-end, to the motor;
from the short braided ground strap at the upper rear of the motor, to the motor;
from the short braided ground strap at the upper rear of the motor, to the chassis.

Battery terminals & cable ends are shiny & clean, with a light coat of dielectric grease.

I can (barely) see two red cables coming up from below, left of center in front of the motor. I assume those go to the starter, though I can't really see it below/behind a black plastic tube (air?) that is roughly a couple inches in diameter.

How can I check those connections at the starter? Do the airbox & that black tube need to be removed? Have I missed anything else that might be easy to eliminate as a possible trouble spot?

Any other trouble-shooting suggestions will be appreciated . . .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,001 Posts
hmmm, interesting. I had a very similar problem on a very different car. The starter would get too hot and not start in hot weather or after a long drive and I stopped for a few minutes. I had to get a starter cover to keep heat away and it solved the problem for me.

It sounds like you are on the right track though. Certainly test the connections at the starter to make sure it is getting enough juice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,993 Posts
Replace the starter. Common symptoms of one on its way out.
 

·
Registered
2005 V70R, Midnight Blue, M66
Joined
·
2,124 Posts
Check the smaller Green/Red wire at the starter. They can become loose and you may get lucky and that is all it is.

Most likely it is your starter, as has been mentioned. The starter solenoid plunger gets dirty over time, and can expand slighty with heat soak, and then will not pull in and activate the starter motor. If it does this again, get yourself something like a broom stick and whack the starter. It will probably then pull in, but you need to replace it.

Removing the starter, and cleaning up the solenoid and commutator may get you down the road a bit, but best to just replace.

In trouble shooting high current, it is best to measure voltage drop as opposed to DC resistance. Measure under cranking load for best results which will reveal poor connections.

No harm in replacing your 6 year old battery, and you may have saved your self some other grief down the road.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for that info, folks. And yeah, I didn't feel too bad about replacing that old battery.

AllData shows that the intake manifold must be removed to access the starter. Is that necessary, & should I order an intake manifold gasket (as well as a replacement starter + solenoid) before attempting this repair? Any other parts that would be prudent to have on hand?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
these cars with a manual trans have a clutch pedal position sensor , acts like a start inhibitor ,located on clutch pedal inside the footwell
those sensors go bad ,tryunplugging the connector and bridging the terminals and see if it fixes the problem immediately
good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's true re: the clutch pedal sensor, but if that were not working then I believe I wouldn't hear the starter solenoid's "click". At least that's what I've noticed when my lazy left foot didn't press hard enough on the clutch pedal when starting . . .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,396 Posts
That is awesome.
That, my friend, is OLD SCHOOL.

Had to do that on a long trip with my 71 142e about a million years ago (back when my grad school student was a baby) and the starter decided to die on a trip back from New Mexico (with a pregnant wife at the time, to boot). Applied brute force to starter (tire wrench) when it wouldn't kick over, started every time... changed it out as soon as we got back home... Well, not every time... I did park it on an incline 2 times and rolled it and popped the clutch to start... ahhh, the good old days...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
I've had the same issue with my old car. I wouldn't like to start on a hot summer day. Turns out it was the main relay. Located right under the steering wheel. It took my mechanic about 5 minutes to replace it. I doubt it its the clutch position sensor. Mine went bad and the car started and drove fine. The only downfall was i didn't have cruise control.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top