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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Many months ago, I posted regarding squeaks in the Radio and A/C console. A few of you came back with good ideas, such as removing the console and radio faceplates and applying felt wherever there is plastic-on-plastic contact. <p>I haben't had time to get my S80 to the dealers for this, but plan to go there first. If that fails, I'll do my own noise abatement. The console squeaks occur when the car brakes, accelerates, body twists, or drives over a microscopic crack in the road. I can press on the front or sides of the console and re-create the wonderful "cracking plastic" sound. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>My newest sound to emerge is a sqeak in the B-pillar (sounds like upholstery squeaking against plastic)... by the driver's ear of course. <p>I have been looking at auto sound proofing products and companies on the web.... and just might use some of these products to solve some of my interior squeaks and reduce road noise. I hear that good audio shops can add soundproofing; that they often go for the floors, kick-panels, firewall, doors to reduce road and outside noise. We'll see.....<p>Next thing I have to bitch about are the rattles under the car. I found some of the plastic by the left wheel-well is not secured and flaps/bangs against something else in the car. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthdown.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>I'd like to hear any new stories of how list members resolved console and B-pillar squeaks, interior noise and exterior noise. I'd like to resolve my interior and exterior squeaks through Volvo first - before I start going nutso with DIY soundproofing.<p>There.... now I feel better, having ranted <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/rolleyes.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>SINCGARS
 

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Re: Interior and Exterior Squeaks and Rattles (SINCGARS)

The squeaking in the B-pillar happened to my 2009 S80 shortly after the temperature got warm. I went nuts trying to isolate it. I did find it and it is very easy to resolve. It is actually not in the B-Pillar at all. but rather the felt weather strip at the top of the doors. I soaked a cloth with WD-40 and rubbed it into the felt. Noise gone. It came back after a couple weeks of the first application. I did it again. It has now been two months and no more B-pillar creaking. Give this a try. I hope it is the same problem that I had. Make sure you do all four doors (and the rubbers too).
 

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hey ImInPA<br>I drive a different car but had the same problem of squeaks emanating from the b-pillar. I did the WD40 thing and applied it all around the rear door's rubber seals. The sounds disappeared!<br>I'm curious: Why did the WD40 work? Is it cos the rubbber seals were too "dry"?
 

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Re: (fisherman)

Use silicone spray on rubber parts. WD40 and other petroleum-based parts are bad for rubber parts. A spray of Armor All may fix the problem also, but it won't last as long as silicone.
 

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Re: (MAC1LSR)

I only use the WD-40 on the the "felted" suround on the exterior seals. I use silicon on the rubbers, but, I found that on my S80, the creaking was being caused only by the "felted" seals. Go figure. What many do not realize about WD-40 is that the main ingredient, while a long-chain hydrocarbon, is actually fish oil. Armor all and silicon sprays did not last more than a few days and the squeaks returned. I applyied the WD-40 almost six weeks ago and the squeaks have not returned. Speaking only for my personal experiences, I have never had an issue with WD-40 on rubber parts.
 

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Re: (ImInPA)

Smells pretty good for fish oil!
 

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Re: (ImInPA)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>ImInPA</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What many do not realize about WD-40 is that the main ingredient, while a long-chain hydrocarbon, is actually fish oil. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>Sorry, Charlie, it's not fish oil. The main ingredient is Stoddard Solvent (60-70%). <p>from snopes: <A HREF="http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp" TARGET="_blank">http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp</A><p>from the federal government: <A HREF="http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=brands&id=23007001&query=wd+40&searchas=TblBrands" TARGET="_blank">http://householdproducts.nlm.n...rands</A><p>Wikipedia: <br><I>Stoddard solvent, is a paraffin-derived clear, transparent liquid which is a common organic solvent used in painting and decorating. In 1924, an Atlanta dry cleaner named W. J. Stoddard worked with Lloyd E. Jackson of the Mellon Research Institute to develop specifications for a less volatile dry cleaning solvent as an alternative to more volatile petroleum solvents. Dry cleaners began using it in 1928 and it was the predominant dry cleaning solvent in the United States from the late 1920s until the late 1950s.<p>It is a mixture of saturated aliphatic and alicyclic C7 to C12 hydrocarbons with a maximum content of 25% of C7 to C12 alkyl aromatic hydrocarbons.</I><br>
 

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Re: (BarentsBlueV50)

I stand corrected on the "fish oil." I guess I am living proof that one is never too old to learn something new. In any event, I have never had an issue with it harming rubber components or seals on any vehicle I have owned. Regardless of what the ingedients are, the fix I described above worked for me, and, I am happy that it worked for someone else too. <br>
 

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Re: Interior and Exterior Squeaks and Rattles (SINCGARS)

Thanks for suggesting the WD-40 on the felt door seals. <br>Those noises went away. Next time, I will try a silicone-based spray on a cloth should the squeaks re-occur.<p>Wish I could spray silicone (or fairy dust for that matter) into my squeaking console and have it shut up as well.
 

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Re: Interior and Exterior Squeaks and Rattles (SINCGARS)

I started with a silicone based lubricant but found it only lasted a few days to a week at most. The WD40 has lasted now several weeks. If you open up your console, you should be able to use felt tape and spray lubricants to address the squeaks. My center console makes a few noises, but nothing that I would consider outlandish. It seems that the dealer should be able to assist you with the console.
 

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Just came across the squeak and rattle note. It baffles the mind that anyone would need to take apart a car that cost 45K+ to fix squeaks and rattles because of a poor design. I actually had my side console coming apart at the lower seam and when I looked at it, it was missing a clip and had what looked like windshield sealer on the tab where the clip was supposed to be. Pretty good design for the first few months, and it keeps the noise away, but then the adhesive starts to let go. Even the dealer was baffled when I stopped in and instantly corrected the missing clip. Show me a Lexus or Acura owner taking apart doors and consoles to fix squeaks? What was I thinking when I sold my S60- that vehicle was rock solid and way more reliable than the T6 has been. And as an added bonus it had no squeaks, rattles, wind noise, radio failures or mechanical issues the T-6 has had. Oil changes and routine check up every 7500 miles, that's it. Stupid is as stupid does, and I sure did it with this one.
 

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Re: (RED)

I share your level of frustration.<p>My left side of the central panel is also jumping out, leaving "nice" gap. Dealer stated that it's un-fixable, as I'm pushing my self out of the car with my right leg, thus causing this to happen. I checked on newer MY Volvo's but the problem with this design still remains. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"><p>Cracking console @ break/accelerate is fortunately solved by extensive amount of grease applied to the surface of touching plastics. Also happens on newer MY, including our XC70.<p>Rubber treatment of doors was done by dealer several times (they even got some oil tube from Volvo), but it last not more then a week. I will try first silicon and if it doesn't help - WD40 and let you know the result. <p>Currently I have rattle in my right front doors, also not fixed/detected by the dealer.<p>So, <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthdown.gif" BORDER="0"> and <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>But, now, if I would have to choose new car, I would again take Volvo.
 

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I will also probably get a new Volvo, not because it's my first choice, but because the dealer is a couple miles from home, they are very helpful and go out of their way to resolve the problems, and I have the time to go during the day. If I were 20 miles from the dealer and they weren't as helpful it would be bye bye Volvo. I'm really used to Acura's where you buy the car and never see the dealer again. I still have a 99 Acura that has 99K miles, not one squeak or rattle and never, repeat never been into the shop because of an unscheduled service or mechanical flaw. And as tight as the day I bought it with not one noise, rattle, squeak. My brother in law has a Saab and a Acura and the Saab is nuts, the Acura TL has 130K and rides like it's still new.It seems like the dealers know Volvo's have all these problems and almost expect these sort of issues. My buddy who has had 8 Volvos and drives a V8 S80 told me years ago they would drive me nuts after Acura's. He was correct.
 

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Re: (RED)

Red, Before settling in on the S80, I was considering a Lexus ES or GS. I did not purchase them because of rattles in the dash. I drove three different ES and two different GS and all of them had rather annoying rattles in the dash going over mild bumps. It is quite easy for me to imagine Lexus owners having door panels removed and dashboards opened up to isolate and repair rattles. Remember, often when the grass appears greener on the other side, it simply means you will have to mow more often. I was quite disappointed with the Lexus samples I test drove. If you are thinking Lexus think LS.
 
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