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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay yesterday everything was fine with the car when I parked it with the stock intake. So this morning I woke up and randomly decided to install my snabb intake and simota filter I had from my previous volvo. I didn't take into consideration the compressor inlet is .5" bigger. I have plenty of extra couplers so I made sure I got one to go over both intake and compressor snug.

**this is where the problem starts** okay so when I went to drive today it was acting funny then through a service engine soon and cel. I checked and it was p0101. I read the maf with torque pro app and maf is giving me readings of 3.4g/s at idle then it would drip into the 2s and the car would have rough idle.

Can someone please throw me some knowledge?
 

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I would consider swapping back to stock to verify the source of the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would consider swapping back to stock to verify the source of the issue.
Yeah I was afraid you were going to say that.. Sucks because I cut the ptc element rubber off.. But since it was a clean cut I may be able to figure something out. It sucks doing intakes on these cars. Climbing on the car isnt fun for me lol
 

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Yeah I was afraid you were going to say that.. Sucks because I cut the ptc element rubber off.. But since it was a clean cut I may be able to figure something out. It sucks doing intakes on these cars. Climbing on the car isnt fun for me lol

is it a wet filter?
 

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is it a wet filter?
Good call. If it's an oiled filter you might well have dirtied up the MAF with the oil from the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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Sounds a lot like an oiled filter problem. Either that or you damaged the connector for the MAF when reinstalling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sounds a lot like an oiled filter problem. Either that or you damaged the connector for the MAF when reinstalling.
Can it dirty the maf that quick?
 

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Can it dirty the maf that quick?
Yes it most definitely can, I had a similar problem after only installing a new EST blue air filter replacing the stock filter with the sock. After about a day or two I started noticing problems but every car is different. If your sensor was already somewhat about to go bad it could be that quick. Pick up some MAF sensor cleaner and after cleaning LET IT SIT a day or 2 to dry. it does make a nice difference even just cleaning it. Long story short I went back to stock without the sock, and just recently went back to the EST filter with no problems for a week now. It probably dried out enough in my garage to not be a problem anymore. We aren't the only ones who have had this problem either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes it most definitely can, I had a similar problem after only installing a new EST blue air filter replacing the stock filter with the sock. After about a day or two I started noticing problems but every car is different. If your sensor was already somewhat about to go bad it could be that quick. Pick up some MAF sensor cleaner and after cleaning LET IT SIT a day or 2 to dry. it does make a nice difference even just cleaning it. Long story short I went back to stock without the sock, and just recently went back to the EST filter with no problems for a week now. It probably dried out enough in my garage to not be a problem anymore. We aren't the only ones who have had this problem either.
Okay ill give it a try.. Only thing that bothering me is can this problem happen if the ptc element isn't seated right and there is a leak? I get a code for running rich too so I feel like if there was a leak after the maf it would run lean because the car is taking more unmetered air in which isn't calculated which is supposed to be leaning the engine. Make sense?
 

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An oiled filter especially when new or just recently re-oiled can cause a problem that quick. But since yours is carrying over from a previous Volvo and I assume you didn't re-oil it, I would find that a little odd.

Can of MAF cleaner is like $6, it's an easy place to start. I don't see why you would need to let the MAF sit that long to dry out. Dedicated MAF cleaner should evaporate rapidly since it's designed for electronics. I would say letting it sit a couple of minutes is a good idea though. I cleaned mine and put it back in same day, solved my problem one time after over oiling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay so I'm about to go now.. I was just outside made sure everything was sealed nice and I tested the idle with maf connected and disconnected.

(When connected) car is very erratic, surging, sounds like it wants to turn off. RPM are up and down

(Disconnected) idles fine. RPM staying at 715 and holding.

Definitely maf right lol?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Okay so I'm about to go now.. I was just outside made sure everything was sealed nice and I tested the idle with maf connected and disconnected.

(When connected) car is very erratic, surging, sounds like it wants to turn off. RPM are up and down

(Disconnected) idles fine. RPM staying at 715 and holding.

Definitely maf right lol?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I do get some exhaust pop revving with disconnected but goes back to smooth idle
 

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Yup, between the code and running good when disconnected it sounds like a MAF issue. Clean it and check the connector, if that doesn't fix it, might be time for a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just sprayed the maf down.. Disgusting that I can literally see dirt coming off.. Letting it dry now
 

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Just sprayed the maf down.. Disgusting that I can literally see dirt coming off.. Letting it dry now
If you can see filth running off, it was most likely the dirt causing your issue. Purdy nasty.
 

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And just so you know exactly what needs to be cleaned, here is one opened up. That little metal dohicky sticking into the s-shaped channel is the heated element that you need to blast extra good to make sure its clean.

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Okay problem solved but now new problem occurs!!!

I know for a fact I hit the sensor on the transmission but not sure it's the cause. So now when I drive it's fine until I start it up (1 of 5 times) I start to move and car thuds and transmission service light with cel (code:p0700) and also gear indicator goes into a dash (-)

Is this because I damaged the sensor on top of transmission?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
And usually in first the car redlines @ 6800rpm.. Now no redline just keeps going
 
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