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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently took time this weekend to install a B&W Subwoofer into my High Performance (Base) XC90 T6 and took pictures along the way to share how it's done, as I haven't found any visual instructions on how to do this. Took me about two hours, but could definitely do it faster next time.

For starters, the subwoofer comes with two attached bolts. You will need nuts for these (M6 x 1mm sized). I also included a washer and lock washer on both to help keep things tight. Here's a photo from a B&W video which captures accurately where the sub resides in the car.
121111


The subwoofer resides behind the trunk paneling and insulation on the passenger side of the vehicle. The first step is to remove the panels (as best as possible - some will be limited by the seat belt, which I did not remove). There are 5 (8mm I believe) screws which need to be removed. I've marked their locations on the photo below. Two of them are the screws which hold on the cargo tie downs and one is hidden next to the passenger seat under the plastic paneling. Start from the top and work your way down.
121112


Once that is out of the way, this is what you should see. I've highlighted the area where the subwoofer rests behind the insulation.
121113


Carefully peel back and bend the insulation to be able to get access to the area. The tricky part here was trying to determine what mounting holes the subwoofer uses. It has 4 mounting spots and vents into the wheel well. I've highlighted one of the top mounting spots along with the wheel vent corner.
121115


Unless your car already came with a sub (in which case, why are you doing this? :)) you will have a rubber plug that looks like this, blocking access to the wheel well. Remove this plug.
121119


Once this plug is removed, you will be able to put the subwoofer into place. The bottom venting area will rest where you just remove the plug (highlighted).
121124


There are four mounting points for the subwoofer. Two of them along the top of the opening near the seat belt. One of these mounts has a built in nut on the back of it (M6 x 1mm), while the other does not (use whatever size bolt/nut works for you).
121122


The two bolts built into the subwoofer will slot into grooves in the body and poke through the insulation. They can be hard to find, so I've tried to highlight them here (rough placement). You may need to pull back or pull out some insulation to be able to get a nut onto them.
121130


You'll know your in the right spot because you'll be able to see/feel the bolts. Make sure they are properly slotted into the frame of the body and secure them. I used a washer, lock washer, and nut to keep them tight.

I ran the wires from the subwoofer along the bottom into the spare tire area where I am going to be hooking them up to an aftermarket amp. There seems to be plenty of space in that area to work in.

Hope this helps anyone who is considering doing the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Great work. Do you know if, what's the difference between the high performance (HP) and B&W? Is the B&W heavier and, or has a larger speaker?
Good question. I don't actually know what the differences are, as neither Volvo nor Harmon Kardon (HK) release any information on the system besides total power. I'd almost assume the old HP subwoofer is the same as the HK one now, with the B&W one continuing to be different. A couple reasons I believe this:
1) Volvo Parts websites consistently list the B&W as about double the cost of the non-B&W sub
2) The Power rating (660w vs 1400w) even with the 5 additional channels leads me to believe the B&W sub is getting additional power and is likely made of different materials
3) I can't imagine B&W utilizing the same materials/performance as Volvo, for brand reputation alone

All of those reasons are why I went straight for the B&W sub and skipped the HP/HK one. Size wise, I'm fairly confident they are the same, as it would make sense for Volvo to utilize the same mountings. Again, if Volvo or HK would release specifications it would be a lot easier to confirm, but I haven't been able to find any besides that the subwoofer does exist.

**For those thinking the High Performance system doesn't come with a sub - you are correct. It was an option in some markets in earlier MYs and could be added. That is not the case anymore, as the "mid-tier" was replaced by the HK system which does include a sub.
 

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I recently took time this weekend to install a B&W Subwoofer into my High Performance (Base) XC90 T6 and took pictures along the way to share how it's done, as I haven't found any visual instructions on how to do this. Took me about two hours, but could definitely do it faster next time.

For starters, the subwoofer comes with two attached bolts. You will need nuts for these (M6 x 1mm sized). I also included a washer and lock washer on both to help keep things tight. Here's a photo from a B&W video which captures accurately where the sub resides in the car. View attachment 121111

The subwoofer resides behind the trunk paneling and insulation on the passenger side of the vehicle. The first step is to remove the panels (as best as possible - some will be limited by the seat belt, which I did not remove). There are 5 (8mm I believe) screws which need to be removed. I've marked their locations on the photo below. Two of them are the screws which hold on the cargo tie downs and one is hidden next to the passenger seat under the plastic paneling. Start from the top and work your way down.
View attachment 121112

Once that is out of the way, this is what you should see. I've highlighted the area where the subwoofer rests behind the insulation. View attachment 121113

Carefully peel back and bend the insulation to be able to get access to the area. The tricky part here was trying to determine what mounting holes the subwoofer uses. It has 4 mounting spots and vents into the wheel well. I've highlighted one of the top mounting spots along with the wheel vent corner. View attachment 121115

Unless your car already came with a sub (in which case, why are you doing this? :)) you will have a rubber plug that looks like this, blocking access to the wheel well. Remove this plug.
View attachment 121119

Once this plug is removed, you will be able to put the subwoofer into place. The bottom venting area will rest where you just remove the plug (highlighted).
View attachment 121124

There are four mounting points for the subwoofer. Two of them along the top of the opening near the seat belt. One of these mounts has a built in nut on the back of it (M6 x 1mm), while the other does not (use whatever size bolt/nut works for you).
View attachment 121122

The two bolts built into the subwoofer will slot into grooves in the body and poke through the insulation. They can be hard to find, so I've tried to highlight them here (rough placement). You may need to pull back or pull out some insulation to be able to get a nut onto them.
View attachment 121130

You'll know your in the right spot because you'll be able to see/feel the bolts. Make sure they are properly slotted into the frame of the body and secure them. I used a washer, lock washer, and nut to keep them tight.

I ran the wires from the subwoofer along the bottom into the spare tire area where I am going to be hooking them up to an aftermarket amp. There seems to be plenty of space in that area to work in.

Hope this helps anyone who is considering doing the same.
 

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Since I was limited above to 10 photos, here are the photos of the subwoofer bolts sticking through the insulation.

Top hole:
View attachment 121137

Bottom hole:
View attachment 121138
Some of the official Volvo images are a little confusing as they show the sub where I've written No 2 but can you just confirm that the Sub is located in the (rough) outline I've shown with the No 1 and ports through the recessed area as shown in yellow or is it nearer 2? Also, is there a need to fit some kind of port grille/vent opening so the frequencies escape into the cabin area or is this not needed as it escapes ok through the soundproofing and lining? Thanks again
130613
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Some of the official Volvo images are a little confusing as they show the sub where I've written No 2 but can you just confirm that the Sub is located in the (rough) outline I've shown with the No 1 and ports through the recessed area as shown in yellow or is it nearer 2? Also, is there a need to fit some kind of port grille/vent opening so the frequencies escape into the cabin area or is this not needed as it escapes ok through the soundproofing and lining? Thanks again
View attachment 130613
So in your drawings the sub is actually probably between the location of 1 and 2, but it is oriented as you have #1 showing. The sub vents into the wheel well lining. You'll know you're in the right spot when you see the rubber rectangular plug that leads into the wheel well lining. Basically, Non Sub cars have a plug in that spot, whereas cars with a sub never had the plug because the sub was there. The vent portion points down and to the front of the car. The sub then is higher and towards the back of the vehicle. The enclosed (cone?) side of the sub is closest to the exterior or the car.

You will have to pull back the insulation to install the sub, as it is behind the insulation. It still gets plenty loud from there. My guess is it vents out of the vent along the top portion of that trunk panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Is the sub self-powered and is the wiring in the area regardless?

Basically, can you add a sub to a non-sub car without having to do additional wiring/splicing?
Unfortunately, it's no to both. The sub requires power from a amplifier, and there isn't any wiring in the area if your car did not come with a subwoofer from the factory.

Don't let that deter you, however. I found there is ample space to run a wire from the amp speaker outputs under the passenger seat to a separate amp in the trunk. I chose to mount mine near the spare tire, and a short distance to the battery makes it an overall easy wiring situation everything considered.
 

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Unfortunately, it's no to both. The sub requires power from a amplifier, and there isn't any wiring in the area if your car did not come with a subwoofer from the factory.

Don't let that deter you, however. I found there is ample space to run a wire from the amp speaker outputs under the passenger seat to a separate amp in the trunk. I chose to mount mine near the spare tire, and a short distance to the battery makes it an overall easy wiring situation everything considered.
OK - too good to be that easy!

Thanks for letting me know about the option there for wiring though, that makes it less of a hassle.
 
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