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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Edit: I didn't think a reply was in order, but I want to leave some useful information here.

I failed the first time I tried to change the arms out. I WD-40'd the bolts and gave up. The next time I tried, I was able to get them out with just a 15mm wrench. So lube em up and call it a day, then try it again later.

The sway bar can be left attached, but the fuel leakage control pump will likely be in your way on the passenger side (LHD). I ended up cussing for half an hour then removing the 3 torx25 screws to disconnect the pump (tennis ball sized clear plastic tank looking thing) from the sheetmetal bracket, then used a combo of pry bar and big screwdriver to bend the bracket out of my way - the inner control arm bolt won't come fully out unless this is out of the way.

Other than that, the install was pretty easy. It's really a 2-bolts per side job, but getting to the inner bolt on the right is tedious. I adjusted the camber by eye (remove wheel, spin large nut on arm) to get it negative, and was done.

Set up an alignment ahead of time... I tried two places that 1)can't do a lowered car because of the ramp and 2)wont guarantee getting it aligned even if they try. So the 3rd guy is a frame shop and he's going to get it right even if it takes longer (I'm paying for his time if it comes to that, but at least he's willing to put the time in.)

Original post:
From anyone who has done this before, can you provide tips on how to install them? The instructions that came with them (SPC 67420) are about as detailed as "take old ones off, put new ones on."

I plan on using jack stands and I have an impact wrench. Do I install them with the suspension loaded or unloaded? Does disconecting the rear sway bar help? Tom mentioned using an 18" extension to avoid having to remove whatever box was in the way on the rear passenger side - can anyone clarify? Are there any torque values I should be aware of?

Pics would be great, I plan on taking some while I work, but I'd like to know what I'm getting myself into.

Modified by mattdoc at 9:54 PM 5-19-2009
 

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Re: Installing rear camber arms this weekend - tips? (mattdoc)

Sorry, I don't have any input either as I haven't done these yet. Sana said they are pretty easy to do...
If you wouldn't mind doing a writeup of how you do it that would really help those of who are waiting on the summer to be able to do this easier. Thanks! Good luck!
 

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Re: Installing rear camber arms this weekend - tips? (carreragt7)

Torque is really tight. You'll need a couple different types of spanners, cant get a socket in there for the inner bolts. There are 3 torx screws that hold that stupid little box on, you can remove them to make it easier to work. Thats on the passenger side btw. Pretty straight forward though, I just had mine on jack stands. A friend helps for this project, but is not required.
 

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Re: Installing rear camber arms this weekend - tips? (sanatarium)

It's not at all necessary to remove the PEM to get at the pivot bolts. You need an 18" 1/2" drive wobble extension and it's very simple to get at the inner bolt. The outer bolt doesn't even need one.

Of course, if you don't have the extension, or try it with a floppy u-joint, then you'll need to rely on cursing.

Tom.
 

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Re: Installing rear camber arms this weekend - tips? (tmtalpey)

Quote, originally posted by tmtalpey »
It's not at all necessary to remove the PEM to get at the pivot bolts. You need an 18" 1/2" drive wobble extension and it's very simple to get at the inner bolt. The outer bolt doesn't even need one.

Of course, if you don't have the extension, or try it with a floppy u-joint, then you'll need to rely on cursing.

Tom.

The wobble extension....is that the only special tool we need? Any specifics on the PEM? Thanks!
 

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Re: Installing rear camber arms this weekend - tips? (chendawg)

I don't consider a wobble extension a special tool, it's basic IMO. I hate u-joints, too floppy and you can't get good accurate torque..

It's a pretty basic job, just ordinary wrenches and maybe an allen key for the adjusting locknut. You do need a pretty wide spanner to turn the adjuster, it's maybe 1 1/2" so I used a pair of slipjoint pliers. There isn't a lot of room for swing, so it was a lot of back and forth to get the camber where I wanted it, 1/16 turn at a time kind of thing. It's not difficult though.

Ignore the PEM if you have the long wobble. If you don't, then you need to unscrew it to get it out of the way.

Tom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Do you know the relationship between adjustment turns and camber angle change?

I'm at -2.1 deg right now, so I want to set the new arms to the same length as the stock ones then guess the right number of turns so it's close to -.7 or -1.0 deg when I install.
 

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Re: Installing rear camber arms this weekend - tips? (tmtalpey)

Quote, originally posted by tmtalpey »
I don't consider a wobble extension a special tool, it's basic IMO. I hate u-joints, too floppy and you can't get good accurate torque..

It's a pretty basic job, just ordinary wrenches and maybe an allen key for the adjusting locknut. You do need a pretty wide spanner to turn the adjuster, it's maybe 1 1/2" so I used a pair of slipjoint pliers. There isn't a lot of room for swing, so it was a lot of back and forth to get the camber where I wanted it, 1/16 turn at a time kind of thing. It's not difficult though.

Ignore the PEM if you have the long wobble. If you don't, then you need to unscrew it to get it out of the way.

Tom.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Re: (mattdoc)

Quote, originally posted by mattdoc »
Do you know the relationship between adjustment turns and camber angle change?

I'm at -2.1 deg right now, so I want to set the new arms to the same length as the stock ones then guess the right number of turns so it's close to -.7 or -1.0 deg when I install.
Sorry, I don't know the turn-to-camber rate. I don't have a camber gauge or access to an alignment deck.

Setting the length in advance isn't easy, you'll find. Because of the bushing that the bolt goes through, there's no way to line it up precisely to make the setting. Even if you could, there's no way to guarantee the bushing sits in the same spot as the old one did when you torque it down.

What I did is to just install it, then I adjusted the arms by eye, basically with the car on a level surface, sighting across the rear wheel and aiming for identical camber to the front. Frankly, I think this is the ideal setting, or maybe a skosh less rear camber. You can get it darn close if your goal is equal. At that point, if you want a specific setting you can drive it to a shop.

Tom.
 

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Re: (chendawg)

I assume you're talking about the inner bolt on the passenger side, which is the only tricky one. It's the same bolt size as the outer, if that helps. And yes, it's waaay in there, but if you look straight forward at it from the rear, there's an angle to it as long as you can turn the end about 10 degrees to hit the bolt head squarely (that's why I recommend the wobble extension). You have to snake the socket up and then forward to get to it.

If you get stuck, just do the other side and go back to the job later.

Tom.
 

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Re: (tmtalpey)

Quote, originally posted by tmtalpey »
I assume you're talking about the inner bolt on the passenger side, which is the only tricky one. It's the same bolt size as the outer, if that helps. And yes, it's waaay in there, but if you look straight forward at it from the rear, there's an angle to it as long as you can turn the end about 10 degrees to hit the bolt head squarely (that's why I recommend the wobble extension). You have to snake the socket up and then forward to get to it.

If you get stuck, just do the other side and go back to the job later.

Tom.

Tom, yep, that's exactly what I'm talking about. There's a way to get to it without removing the leak detection thingie??
 

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Re: (chendawg)

Yep, I did the job easily without removing a thing but the wheel. Mine is a 2005 V50, but I can't imagine it's very different right there.

Tom.
 

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Re: (bopmychimbeech)

Quote, originally posted by bopmychimbeech »
http://forums.swedespeed.com/z...age=2
usually those are 1 degree per full rotation. hope that helps.

Huh? lol

Anyways, here's an update:

Finally got it done.....HAD to unscrew the fuel leak detection thing.....no way around it. Basically it sucks and you just have to really move it all around to get the bolt out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I gave up on mine. I didn't have a wobble extension or even a single extension long enough to reach the inner bolt. The impact wrench didn't work through two extensions, a u-joint, and the socket on that. It got the outer bolt just fine when it didnt have extension-o-rama attached... I'll try again once I get the right tool.
 

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Re: (mattdoc)

Quote, originally posted by mattdoc »
I gave up on mine. I didn't have a wobble extension or even a single extension long enough to reach the inner bolt. The impact wrench didn't work through two extensions, a u-joint, and the socket on that. It got the outer bolt just fine when it didnt have extension-o-rama attached... I'll try again once I get the right tool.

What really really REALLY helps on the passenger side is this:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_1...force

Gearwrench would be okay too I guess.

You'll need the 15 mm wrench. I couldn't get enough room to get a ratchet up there. If you use a standard wrench it'll take you forever.
 

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Re: (chendawg)

Why Couldn't Use a , HD Swing Arm End Links - with the Double Ended
Eye Bolt set-up - Plus it would be Adjustable and Made from Alloy ? _ ?
 
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