Install of Boost Guage
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Re: Install of Boost Guage (fergs60r)
With the electronic, you'd have to find a place to mount the map sensor that comes with it. I mounted mine where the tcv is. With manual you'd have to run a vacuum line all the way to the gauge that seems like a pain. Electronic gauges are more accurate and most have auto-calibrate feature every start-up. You can pick up autometer cobalt electronic gauge for pretty cheap on eBay.
With the electronic, you'd have to find a place to mount the map sensor that comes with it. I mounted mine where the tcv is. With manual you'd have to run a vacuum line all the way to the gauge that seems like a pain. Electronic gauges are more accurate and most have auto-calibrate feature every start-up. You can pick up autometer cobalt electronic gauge for pretty cheap on eBay.
Both are relatively easy.
Mechanical: routing the vac. line "can" be difficult as it as to come from the engine bay and into the "cockpit."
Electronic: There are many more wires flying all over the place and finding the right connection for each one can be a pain if you aren't used to tapping into fuses and such.
I have had both, and I prefer the electronic version because you do not have to worry about kinking the vac. line.
Mechanical: routing the vac. line "can" be difficult as it as to come from the engine bay and into the "cockpit."
Electronic: There are many more wires flying all over the place and finding the right connection for each one can be a pain if you aren't used to tapping into fuses and such.
I have had both, and I prefer the electronic version because you do not have to worry about kinking the vac. line.
Re: (GiRaff3)
There are typically only 3 wires with the electronic gauges, ground, lighting, and 12v switched.
| Quote, originally posted by GiRaff3 » |
Electronic: There are many more wires flying all over the place and finding the right connection for each one can be a pain if you aren't used to tapping into fuses and such. |
There are typically only 3 wires with the electronic gauges, ground, lighting, and 12v switched.
Re: (xman03)
My digital had 3 coming from the sending unit and then 3 from the gauge itself.
| Quote, originally posted by xman03 » |
There are typically only 3 wires with the electronic gauges, ground, lighting, and 12v switched. |
My digital had 3 coming from the sending unit and then 3 from the gauge itself.
Re: (GiRaff3)
Was there just a harness clip in from the sending unit to the wires running to the gauge?
Was there just a harness clip in from the sending unit to the wires running to the gauge?
Re: (xman03)
A wire had to be run from the harness that plugged into the sending unit, all the way up to the actual gauge. The rest were the typical ground and 12v for the sending unit and gauge itself.
| Quote, originally posted by xman03 » |
| Was there just a harness clip in from the sending unit to the wires running to the gauge? |
A wire had to be run from the harness that plugged into the sending unit, all the way up to the actual gauge. The rest were the typical ground and 12v for the sending unit and gauge itself.
Re: Install of Boost Guage (fergs60r)
i bought a mechanical a little while ago to use temporarily. I will be upgrading to electronic shortly. IMO, its better.
i bought a mechanical a little while ago to use temporarily. I will be upgrading to electronic shortly. IMO, its better.
Re: Install of Boost Guage (o2k)
it depends also on where you will be putting the gauge. I wouldn't trust running a vac line through the door jam if you are mounting it there.
it depends also on where you will be putting the gauge. I wouldn't trust running a vac line through the door jam if you are mounting it there.
Re: Install of Boost Guage (fergs60r)
I installed a manual gauge in the cubby next to the radio. Here's my step by step (if I had known it before I started):
- Under dash to the fuse box you access with the driver door open.
- Pull out the foam stopper to the pillar in the fuse box.
- Pull out the rubber stopper in the pillar behind the door.
- Fish the line through (takes a little time, be careful of your paint when using a coat hanger.
- Remove the heat shield that hides the TCV. If you're standing in front of your car with the hood open, it's to the right of the airbox in front of the battery/fuse box. Use a 9mm socket to compress the restraints.
- From the engine bay, look into the body panel past the hood support. You'll be able to see daylight and hopefully your line. If you use the IPD blue silicone hose it will be easier to see if you have a black R like me. Fish the line through until you have all the slack through. You're not done, because the hood would close and pinch the line.
- Find the hole (about 3/8") directly accross from the TCV, thread your coat hanger in there toward the hydraulic hood support. For now, straighten the end of the hanger. Work it back until you get the end out right next to the support.
- Put a slight bend in the hanger and push the line onto it. Pull it slowly back and through the hole.
- Thread the line under/around the airbox to the tap point as identified here. http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=15323
Have fun.
I installed a manual gauge in the cubby next to the radio. Here's my step by step (if I had known it before I started):
- Under dash to the fuse box you access with the driver door open.
- Pull out the foam stopper to the pillar in the fuse box.
- Pull out the rubber stopper in the pillar behind the door.
- Fish the line through (takes a little time, be careful of your paint when using a coat hanger.
- Remove the heat shield that hides the TCV. If you're standing in front of your car with the hood open, it's to the right of the airbox in front of the battery/fuse box. Use a 9mm socket to compress the restraints.
- From the engine bay, look into the body panel past the hood support. You'll be able to see daylight and hopefully your line. If you use the IPD blue silicone hose it will be easier to see if you have a black R like me. Fish the line through until you have all the slack through. You're not done, because the hood would close and pinch the line.
- Find the hole (about 3/8") directly accross from the TCV, thread your coat hanger in there toward the hydraulic hood support. For now, straighten the end of the hanger. Work it back until you get the end out right next to the support.
- Put a slight bend in the hanger and push the line onto it. Pull it slowly back and through the hole.
- Thread the line under/around the airbox to the tap point as identified here. http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=15323
Have fun.
Re: Install of Boost Guage (xman03)
s is the exact gauge I was looking at....thanks everyone
| Quote, originally posted by xman03 » |
| With the electronic, you'd have to find a place to mount the map sensor that comes with it. I mounted mine where the tcv is. With manual you'd have to run a vacuum line all the way to the gauge that seems like a pain. Electronic gauges are more accurate and most have auto-calibrate feature every start-up. You can pick up autometer cobalt electronic gauge for pretty cheap on eBay. |
s is the exact gauge I was looking at....thanks everyone
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