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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Volvo Auxiliary Light Mounting and Wiring Kit

Today, I completed the installation of the Volvo OEM Auxiliary Light Kit. The kit consists of a front bumper mounting bracket which can be used to install mostly any standard fog or driving lights. The bracket mounts under your number plate, and the number plate then mounts to the bracket. It also includes all of the necessary wiring, as well as a necessary fuse, and a switch which installs below the climate control in the switch bank. The rest of the wiring is pre-wired in the car. *NOTE* This is something not mentioned in any of the Volvo documentation. The lights will only work WHILE the high beams are activated. While the high beams are on, you can press the button to turn on the auxiliary lights, so you have a choice as to whether or not you'd like to use them. The car will remember the setting from the previous time you used your high beams. There is an LED on the switch which illuminates when the lights are on. Depending on your local regulations, it may be necessary to fit plastic covers on the lights when they're not in use. Technically in Pennsylvania, these can't be used on the road, however I'll be using them only on the days when we get extremely heavy snow on my commute.


Part Number:

Note: The XC90 kit does not appear to be available from Volvo. However, I used the V70/XC70/S60 kit, and it contained all the necessary parts, and everything fit and worked perfectly. There appears to be no discernible difference between the two kits.

XC90 Kit: NO LONGER AVAILABLE
V70/XC70/S60 Kit: 30772053 - $144.56 (From Tasca)

You'll also need to purchase a pair of lights. Volvo has their own lights which appear to be Hella 500 lights repackaged in Volvo boxes. I elected to go ahead and order a set directly from Hella for a cost of around $60. There are several different types for several different results. I wanted lights which would stay low to the ground, and would help me when driving in heavy snow, so I went with the fog lights. There is also a promo photo from Volvo shown below so that you can see the size and shape of the actual bracket. If you have a European Union style number plate, the bracket is completely covered by the plate.





Volvo Installation Instructions:

Click Here for a PDF of the detailed installation instructions as issued by Volvo.


Some Installation Notes:

First of all, the instructions are wrong with regard to the procedure for disconnecting the battery. Before disconnecting the battery, place the ignition to position 1. Then, once you complete the installation, place the ignition in position two, and then reconnect the battery. The battery must be disconnected for a minimum of 5 minutes, however it'll take you quite a bit longer than this to complete your installation. So, there's no reason there should be any issue here. Just pay attention to the key position. This is the procedure which allows the CEM to learn the positions of the switches in the switch bank.

The pre-routed wiring in the car terminates next to the airbox behind the drivers side headlamp. This photo shows that plug with the kit wiring harness plugged into it. This photo is looking straight down between the airbox and the drivers side front fender.


The Volvo installation instructions are fairly unclear as to where to ground the wire harness. I used the highly visible ground points next to the airbox.


Ultimately, you'll end up routing the ends of the wire harness through the center bumper grille like so. There are two sets of blue and black wires. The longer set obviously goes to the passenger side. The Hella lights also have blue and black wires, so hooking them up is quite obvious. I simply spliced the wires together, rather than following the Volvo instructions which assume you're using the OEM volvo lights.


I wrapped the wiring with electrical tape so there are no bare wires, however I will be going back and covering it with the accordion style wiring loom for added protection.


One last pic showing the installation of the switch in the main switch bank. You can install the switch into any empty slot. The car will learn where it is. Don't forget to insert the fuse in the under hood fuse box. It is labeled for the auxiliary lights on the sticker under the fuse box lid, and in my car it was the only slot in the fuse box which was missing a fuse.



Pics Showing Different Light Modes:

Low beam headlights (Active bending bixenon) and LED running lights.


Original daytime running lights, along with the retrofitted LED running lights.


Only the LED running lights.


High beams (BiXenon Active Bending) with Auxiliary lights.


low beam headlights with LED running lights, and covers on the Auxiliary lights.









Additional Pictures:
My car was filthy in those first pics, and I'm borderline obsessive about my cars being clean, so I felt as if I had to post some pics of the car with the lights fitted and in clean condition, so here they are! ;)












If you have any questions, please let me know by posting in this thread. I want to try to keep all information public. I am also in the first stages of creating a sticky for the XC90 forum which lists all of the how-to/diy/info threads in a single place. I made one for the S80 forum about a year ago and it has become a very valuable resource.

While installing the lights, I also found an excellent writeup done on another forum which details the installation on an XC70. Click here for that.
 

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Very nice. I always look forward to your DIY posts!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Like the look of the aux lights. Is it my imagination or are your xenons a different colour temperature?
It's funny you should mention that. Both of the bulbs are identical and have the exact same amount of burn-in time. I replaced them on the same day with OEM bulbs. Here's the issue. For some reason, my drivers side headlight has decided that, under no circumstances, will it be clear anymore. I have spent so much time cleaning, buffing, sanding, heck, i even had a "headlight guy" come in and have him refinish it. No matter what, though, the lens still has a yellowish tint to it. When I bought the car, the headlight was so yellow that you could barely even see through it, yet the passenger side headlight is crystal clear. The car hasn't been in an accident, and both lights are original as far as i can tell. I've also never seen an ABL light which has gone yellow like this. Ive been actively searching for an affordable left headlight. Ideally, i'd like to find one that's broken but still has a good lens that i could transplant.

So, to sum it up, that side looks yellower because the lens isn't totally clear.
 

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Nice install and as ever great info. I like your choice of Hella as the light manufacturer, used to work with them many years ago. There is good reason they are the best for after market out there. When money allows I choose no other. That Swedish number plate, I thought you where in America?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Nice install and as ever great info. I like your choice of Hella as the light manufacturer, used to work with them many years ago. There is good reason they are the best for after market out there. When money allows I choose no other. That Swedish number plate, I thought you where in America?
In the USA, there are a few states which require only a rear number plate. I live in Pennsylvania, which is one of those states. As a result, we can put whatever we want on the front of the car, and it is fairly popular to put a European Union plate on European cars just for "the look." I've got one on both of my Volvos, and my Audi. On the XC90, it's particularly important since it hides the bracket for the lights. A USA spec plate certainly wouldn't.

On my S80, I even had a custom EU plate made to match my Pennsylvania rear license plate.



 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I chose hella lights because of previous experience with them. I ran a set of 500s on my Subaru Legacy many years ago, and they were just fantastic. I was so happy to see that Volvo offered a way to properly integrate them into their cars. On my subaru, I just wired up a relay so they would come on in tandem with the high (full) beams.

 

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In the USA, there are a few states which require only a rear number plate.

On my S80, I even had a custom EU plate made to match my Pennsylvania rear license plate.
Wow I never knew that about the license plates, damn we are so stiff upper lip we ain't ever getting that here ;)
Nice touch on adding it to the S80.

I got to try a set of the 500 FF Hella lamps for a short period some time ago. They where superb in comparison to std lamps, where the lens directs the light pattern.

If you see a set for a steal of a price, grab em ;) Keep up the great work on adding those farkles :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I didn't know BLIS could be an option on only one mirror. :confused: :thumbup:
I'm in the process of doing a BLIS retrofit on my car. I don't have the passenger side installed yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wow I never knew that about the license plates, damn we are so stiff upper lip we ain't ever getting that here ;)
Nice touch on adding it to the S80.

I got to try a set of the 500 FF Hella lamps for a short period some time ago. They where superb in comparison to std lamps, where the lens directs the light pattern.

If you see a set for a steal of a price, grab em ;) Keep up the great work on adding those farkles :)
I saw and considered the FF lamps when I was shopping for them. My partner drives the XC90 mostly, and he commutes to work during dark hours. He has used the lights that I installed and said that they are amazing. I have yet to drive the car at night as I've only driven the car in the city at night. He drives through some rural areas.
 

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Nice work.

Any chance you could pop the switch open and reveal the coding used? Its a minor task once removed to open and take a picture of the inner board.

All console switches in the XC90 (and same generation 70/60 series) use a small 1x4 diode matrix D1 D2 D3 D4 between pins 11,10,9 & 8 respectively and between pin 12 (common).
giving 16 possible combinations.

Examples

Function _____Code___Decimal___Switch Label

Window Lock__0111_____7 _____8 W37E
DSTC________1110_____14 _____10 W40E
Rear AC______0101_____ 5 _____30 W39
Mirror________0100_____ 4 _____9 W41E
Park Assist____1100_____ 12_____28 W39E

I would like to convert a surplus switch to this function but dont have the code.

Thanks in anticipation.

TIA
 

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What bulbs are you using in your factory bumper mounted fog lights? Look brighter than normal.
 

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What bulbs are you using in your factory bumper mounted fog lights? Look brighter than normal.
Those are the facelift LED drls. Completely different housing from stock.
 

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Those are the facelift LED drls. Completely different housing from stock.
I noticed it as well that you've managed the LED running light upgrade in place of the fog lamps. Volvo's accessories site, however, states that the LED running lamps aren't compatible with active bending lights. How'd you manage to get them to work? Do they simply work with little to no mod other than replacing the old housings with the new LED kits?

One of my fog lamps' lens is busted out completely. Shockingly the light's remained functional for over a year now surviving exposed to the elements (rain, fog, snow, road salt, off-road debris, dirt, sand, etc) although the bulb reflector and housing is showing signs of rust. I'd love to replace them with the LED running lamps and coincidently add either the Hella/Volvo aux lights, VisionX or even a light bar. Interesting that the aux lights would only work with high beams on. I imagine that'd be ok, although I could imagine situations (dense fog) when you'd want low beam and aux lights on (I'd be inclined to go with amber lenses given likelihood of fog and snow for mountain driving).
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I noticed it as well that you've managed the LED running light upgrade in place of the fog lamps. Volvo's accessories site, however, states that the LED running lamps aren't compatible with active bending lights. How'd you manage to get them to work? Do they simply work with little to no mod other than replacing the old housings with the new LED kits?

One of my fog lamps' lens is busted out completely. Shockingly the light's remained functional for over a year now surviving exposed to the elements (rain, fog, snow, road salt, off-road debris, dirt, sand, etc) although the bulb reflector and housing is showing signs of rust. I'd love to replace them with the LED running lamps and coincidently add either the Hella/Volvo aux lights, VisionX or even a light bar. Interesting that the aux lights would only work with high beams on. I imagine that'd be ok, although I could imagine situations (dense fog) when you'd want low beam and aux lights on (I'd be inclined to go with amber lenses given likelihood of fog and snow for mountain driving).
They work perfectly. It was a plug and play affair. I was also able to install XC70 versions in my S80 with very little modification.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

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On a off topic about your yellowed headlight...

Some of my friends park their cars in garages with high efficiency windows and for some reason they have this uncanny ability to melt headlights and other plastic trim. Maybe the previous owner continuously kept parking next to one of those windows over an extended period of time on that side and it eventually caused the headlight to fog over and yellow. Really random but what I have seen it looks like what it may have happened.
 
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