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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a Lotek A-piller pod installed with an Autometer vacuum/boost gauge in it. <br>The pod was bought here: <A HREF="http://gaugepods.com/volvo.html" TARGET="_blank">http://gaugepods.com/volvo.html</A><br>The gauge here: <A HREF="http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntt=ATM-3301&x=0&y=0&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=700+115" TARGET="_blank">http://store.summitracing.com/...0+115</A> <br>I also installed a Wheelskins steering wheel leather cover for my S70 (bought from <A HREF="http://www.ipdusa.com" TARGET="_blank">http://www.ipdusa.com</A>). You have to sew it on but it's a great feel and very sturdy! Below is a picture of everything. I have the wheel turned so you can see the most relevant stitching! Nice thing about the gauge is that it comes with a green cover for the light bulb. The gauge lights up with the same green tint as my instrument panel <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"> <br> <IMG SRC="http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/2259/dscf0039agg7.jpg" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Inexpensive summer mods...total cost, less than $140 including shipping. (MadeInJapan)

Good work sir! Looks nice. Way to sew like a pro!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you...have a blister on my finger this morning, but all worked out and it feels soooo good- much better than the skinny steering OEM wheel that was peeling. <p> Tried to heed JRL's advice and have it professionally sewn on but every upholster shop I called said they wouldn't do it around here. Finally called a guy that does auto upholstery and he told me that I could do it as well as he could...oh well? Anyway, I did it and it took about an hour to do. <p>The other mod wasn't hard either...just had to find the conduit pass-through into the cabin...and there is one...it's actually pretty cool that they build one in with rubber ends and all...Then I hooked the line up to my vacuum tree after sliding it through some silicone hose I had left over from my vacuum line exchange....don't want the heat to melt the plastic they send with these gauges.
 

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Re: (MadeInJapan)

MIJ, very nice! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> I wish I had time to work on my car this summer.. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Inexpensive summer mods...total cost, less than $140 including shipping. (MadeInJapan)

Really good job, David. I'll be dropping mine off for you to work on soon. You don't mind, do you?<br>j/k <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
hehe...you know, I'm on summer break. I don't mind driving out to Staw Plains or somewhere for a beer. Would love to chat with you. Give me a shout some time...PM me, etc.
 

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Re: (MadeInJapan)

Looks nice MIJ! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"><p>Any pointers on the wheelskin installation? I need to get one for my car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: (Mk1Racer)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Mk1Racer</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks nice MIJ! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"><p>Any pointers on the wheelskin installation? I need to get one for my car.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Actually, I do...instructions says that tighter is better (pulling the thread), but now that I've done this, I'm not sure I like the way the leather bunches up when you pull it so tight. Just pulling the thread tight enough so there is a slight over-lap is better. The other thing is to start in an inconspicuous spot...don't start like I did, a few holes to the left of the already sewn leather at the bottom of the wheelskin. It says to leave some string hanging in the middle and to double knot it when you're finished. If you try to do it this way (maybe it was just me) you never can get it tight enough (waxed string)...it slips and that section doesn't cinch up nicely. A better way is to just keep going around (double string) a few holes after you've gotten to the spot where you started, then pull the string through inbetween the threads and cut it, and push it down so it's inside and not sticking up. <p>The other thing is that you need to make sure you slip the wheelskin on over the wheel and have it exactly centered so that an equal amount of leather is over the wheel and the opened up part (before you begin to stich) is equal all the way around. If you don't do this, the stitching will appear to either slide around to the back of the wheel or to the front. It's not hard- you just have to eye ball it and get it right BEFORE you start.<p>Next, there are an equal number of holes on each side of the leather. This means that when you stitch it up, and especially going around the "spokes," and you get one hole off, you'll end up with a mess when you get back around to your starting point. I had to undo mine in several spots a few times because I had miss-counted. I found that having one of those mirrors on a swivel (like you use to look down into the engine bay) handy so you don't have to crane your neck around the side of the steering wheel to count the holes was very helpful. <p>Last of all, do this in a well lit area...outside with sunroof open, etc. is good- AND, don't do this on a day that the temperatures are 100+ degrees. I did and was pouring sweat the entire time.<p>Best of luck...it's really not difficult at all!<p>Oh, yeah- one more thing- the instructions say to use a band-aid if you wish on your finger...I didn't use one (thought it didn't hurt while I was pulling the string) but I ended up with a blister on the first joint of my index finger the next day. I'd put a band-aid there to begin with as a preventative measure.
 
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