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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've just completed my PhMIC install last week, and did a transmission flush + oil change at the same time.

Thing is, now I'm feeling a whole lot of vibrating in the car, especially during cold startup. I'm hearing a constant *click-clacking* from the transmission area. Worst part is, the car feels like it's *about to die, but never dies* whenever I turn the steering wheel.

This problem doesn't go on once car warms up, but it does come back intermittently every 15 mins or so.

Any input will be great, thanks folks!
 

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collapsed engine mounts? Not the one up top but i believe there are 3 down below. One near the crank, one towards the front center of the bumper, and one in the middle of the firewall down low. Again these are only approximate locations but i know there located down there somewhere
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What's the relation of these mounts to turning the steering wheel though?
 

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The mount on the right side below crank pulley is one that stands the best chance of going metal to metal.
When you move the steering the whole subframe moves a bit opposite the way you steer. The load from power steering pump makes the engine work a bit harder. These two combined could shift the engine a bit while also making the engine coarser.
The test drives to see what the IC did for you may have finished off some weak mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll check those mounts out. What should I look for in terms of wear? Thanks guys!
 

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I'll check those mounts out. What should I look for in terms of wear? Thanks guys!
The front engine mount by the radiator is a hydraulic mount. Check the mount and the sub frame around the mount for stains.
If you see any stains around the mount on the sub frame then the mount is leaking and will have to be replaced.
Also there is a wire wrapped around the mount. If that wire is loose and has play then you'll need to replace it.

As for the side mount on the passenger side of the car I wouldn't know what to look for. Maybe cracks? Someone can chime in....
 

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Best way to check the RH mount is to pry up on it or piece os 2x4 on your floor jack and lift the engine by front of oil pan. The metal piece from the two bolt tab that goes to engine will be sheared from the rubber. Often a visual is all you need. You will usually see torn rubber on a really bad one that is noisy.
 

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Mine does that to, but in my case it's because the fmic is up against the crash bar, and the pipes against hard AC lines and points
 
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