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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good morning and Happy New Year!

Got in the car this morning and.... nothing. Key in ignition and turned it but it would not turn to position II. Checked that the steering wheel was not locked. Tried my Wife's key also and same result/
Please advise what I am doing wrong or what it might be.

Regards,
 

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Could be the lock has bit the dust, or has finally gummed up. To rule out the latter, try a little wd40 in the hole and some compressed air to see if that gets it working again.

I hope by the wheel not being locked, you mean that there was no tension on the steering wheel against the lock that would keep the key from turning?
 

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This may get you by until you can get the ignition lock cylinder replaced.

If you take the plastic covers off of the steering column (3 torx), there is a cable that runs into the back of the ignition switch, this is the park interlock cable.

What this does is keep you from putting the car in to gear if the car is not running, OR keep you from pulling the key out of the ignition while the car is in gear.

By unplugging the cable from the ignition the key SHOULD work properly. You should be able to turn the key over, crank the car, turn it off and pull the key out of the ignition.

IF this does not work, then the ignition lock cylinder itself is the problem and that part from Volvo is $250ish.

Hope this helps. I only know because this just happened to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Correct, the wheel is not "Under Tension".
The key does go in and it does turn to Position I, just not to II or III.
 

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Correct, the wheel is not "Under Tension".
The key does go in and it does turn to Position I, just not to II or III.
These are the exact same symptoms mine had.

Try what I mentioned, I'm willing to bet money that it's the shift interlock cable or the ignition lock cylinder itself.

Below is a pic of what I'm talking about, reference the shift lock cable. Push the tab inward and pull back on the cable and this will remove it from the lock cylinder. Then try your key again and see if it works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Could be the lock has bit the dust, or has finally gummed up. To rule out the latter, try a little wd40 in the hole and some compressed air to see if that gets it working again.

I hope by the wheel not being locked, you mean that there was no tension on the steering wheel against the lock that would keep the key from turning?
Thanks people for the ideas and suggestions.
While doing some other work, I googled the problem and guess what? It is a very common VOLVO problem that has been going on for 15 years at a minimum!
I did spray some WD40 on spare key (would have preferred Lithium grease) wiggled it around as possible in ignition, applied a little pressure and it worked. It continues to work.
According to posts on different forums - almost all tow-truck drivers know about this problem and Volvo wants $500 to order & replace cylinder.

Thanks again
 

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Its most likely your ignition lock. I've replaced dozens of them. They are not too bad to replace. I remove the steering wheel and steering column covers. Now I've seen a lot of guys drill out the break off bolts with a angle drill and then use either easy outs or another type of broken stud extractor. I don't do that. 1. it makes a huge mess with metal shavings EVERYWHERE. 2. It just takes too long.

Here's the easy and fast way to remove those bolts. Get a small hardened cold chisel and a medium or regular size ball peen hammer. you may feel more comfortable with removing the wiper and turn signal stalks to allow some extra room. Using the chisel, make a moderate groove on top of the break away bolt at about the 3-4 oclock position in relation to looking down at it. This would be the right one I'm talking about. After the nice clean cut you made, place the chisel back in the groove and using the chisel and hammer to turn the bolt counterclockwise. With strong steady wacks you can get the bolt to turn about 1/8 turn at a time. Some of the factory break away bolts had a thread locker and some didn't. If it got thread locker this process will take a little longer. With luck, there will be no thread locker and after it loosens a bit you can spin it out the rest of the way. The left one is a little more of a bugger getting a good angle on it but it comes out just the same. Now once its out and you are going back in, you will need new break away bolts. These bolts have a T30 head on them that twists off when fully torqued. What I used to do it to torque the bolts just enough and not break the heads off, thus leaving it super easy for the next replacement down the road. Hope this helps.
 
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