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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok, like I said in my repvious thread about the rust in the fuel tank, that has been thoroughly cleaned and as well as the enite fuel system. Thanks to 142 Guy, I was able to trouble shoot other fuel issues which helped tremendously.

I now have a peculiar idle issue. It has difficulty with a cold start, whch it always has, and doesn't seem to be any better now than before, however, when warm, it starts like a champ. The issue is it idle mostly good, except it will die off on its own, as well as die off when I place the car in gear. I have to throttle the gas pedal when in gear to keep it alive, plus, when I slow down for a stop, I have to throttle the gas, too. I am using a Airtex fuel pump which I suspect is the problem. I do have a Nissan fuel pump form a 1979-80 280Z. I will try to the switch tomorrow, but I wanted to know if any could tell me how to convert back to an Bosch fuel pump since the electrical connectors on the Bosch are different.

I thought I should double check all of the vacuum hoses.

Thanks.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING:p
 

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Is it idling too slowly when warm? If the acceleration is good and you are not encountering lean misfires or irregular operation at higher speed I don't think that the fuel pump is the problem.

If you still have the original connector from the Bosch pump, switching back is easy as long as you have left a little pigtail of wire on the Bosch connector. Buy one female and two mail two pin connectors (I like the deutsche brand connectors). Hook the female connector to the two supply wires on the chassis side. Connect one male connector to the old Bosch terminator. Connect the other male connector to the two lugs connected to the Nissan pump. You can switch back and forth all you want. Make sure you get the polarities correct.

Heads up, the connection to the Nissan pump is just like the connection to the Airtex pump (ring terminals); but, different. The Nissan connection has two different stud sizes - prevents a mechanic from installing a new pump with the supply polarity reversed. Go get the appropriate crimp style ring terminals before doing the install. The ring terminals that were supplied with my Airtex pump would not fit on the Nissan's terminals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Is it idling too slowly when warm? If the acceleration is good and you are not encountering lean misfires or irregular operation at higher speed I don't think that the fuel pump is the problem.

It does not idle too slowly when warm. Here is a link....https://www.dropbox.com/home/Volvo ...riginal Bosch pump connector. Can I buy one?
 

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Is it idling too slowly when warm? If the acceleration is good and you are not encountering lean misfires or irregular operation at higher speed I don't think that the fuel pump is the problem.

It does not idle too slowly when warm. Here is a link....https://www.dropbox.com/home/Volvo ...which are uncommon except for the 1/4 " size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The problem might be the high idle speed or perhaps the torque converter is engaging at too low of an engine speed. Either way, I think you may have a little investigating to do relative to idle speed and transmission set up.
Ok, I replaced my original/modified distributor with the 123Ignition setup. I have to say that with the vacuum line now hookup and operational, what a difference in the idle adjust control. I very small upward turn or downward turn really translates into a change in the rpm, unlike before without the vacuum advance hookup because the distributor diaphragm had a leak.

Anyway, unfortunately, I still have the same problem as before. I have dialed down the idle rpm, but the car still stalls when I place it into gear. If someone could expand on how I go about exploring the transmission setup I would be appreciative. Thanks in advance.

By the way, when driven, the car is great. I cannot tell you what a huge difference the car is like now when I drive than before. It is like night and day. it is enjoyable when I drive it. The issue is when I slow down to a near stop, the car will die. I have to throttle the gas pedal to keep it going plus when I put it in gear, the car dies. I have to throttle the gar. It is not the end of the world, but it is not ideal either.

Thanks.

Svens. :cool:
 

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The torque converter in your car never disengages, it's a conventional vane-type and has no clutch or lockup. The engine idle speed has to be raised to match it, IIRC to about 850rpm. What are you trying to set it to? Does it stall at higher rpm?
 

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The torque converter in your car never disengages, it's a conventional vane-type and has no clutch or lockup. The engine idle speed has to be raised to match it, IIRC to about 850rpm. What are you trying to set it to? Does it stall at higher rpm?
Yes, engaging was a poor choice of words on my part. I was thinking of the increase in torque multiplication that occurs as the speed difference between the turbine and impeller increases. Probably not the problem because on re reading I notice that the OP said the dying at idle also occurred in neutral.
 

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Ok, I replaced my original/modified distributor with the 123Ignition setup. I have to say that with the vacuum line now hookup and operational, what a difference in the idle adjust control. I very small upward turn or downward turn really translates into a change in the rpm, unlike before without the vacuum advance hookup because the distributor diaphragm had a leak.

Anyway, unfortunately, I still have the same problem as before. I have dialed down the idle rpm, but the car still stalls when I place it into gear. If someone could expand on how I go about exploring the transmission setup I would be appreciative. Thanks in advance.

By the way, when driven, the car is great. I cannot tell you what a huge difference the car is like now when I drive than before. It is like night and day. it is enjoyable when I drive it. The issue is when I slow down to a near stop, the car will die. I have to throttle the gas pedal to keep it going plus when I put it in gear, the car dies. I have to throttle the gar. It is not the end of the world, but it is not ideal either.

Thanks.

Svens. :cool:
The B20E engine has a vacuum retard system on the distributor. You might want to check to see if your B30E, being of similar vintage and having the same basic FI system, has a similar arrangement. Volvo used vacuum retard on some (all?) of the early FI engines as an early emission control.

On the B20E, you block off the vacuum retard line, adjust the idle speed down to around 800 RPM and then set the base ignition timing. Check to see if there is a similar procedure for setting the ignition timing on The B30 E.

Because the B20E has vacuum retard, if you pull the vacuum line to the distributor the idle speed will go up significantly. If your vacuum diaphragm was leaking slightly, that could explain your high idle (if it has vacuum retard).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
142Guy,

Could I lean on you to post a link t the Bosch fuel pump connectors? I am certain my idle issues are the fuel pump. The car will drive ok for a bity, then will psutter when taking a turn or going up a hill. I have seen that with previous fuel pumps. I do have the Nissan 280Z fuel pump, but want to go straight to the Bosch pump if I can get the connectors since I don't have those. Thanks.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, I have a the original Bosch connector shipped. I still have the issue of the car starting better than before, but it dies when I put it in gear. I can at times throttle it with the gas, but it isn't always successful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The torque converter in your car never disengages, it's a conventional vane-type and has no clutch or lockup. The engine idle speed has to be raised to match it, IIRC to about 850rpm. What are you trying to set it to? Does it stall at higher rpm?
It does not stall at higher RPM. It only stalls when I have it idling and place it in gear.
 

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What's the current RPMs it idles at and what does the timing indicate it's set at at that speed with the dizzy vacuum disconnected?
 

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Found some info that may be helpful. This is 'generic' d-jet info, not 164E specific. If you have the Volvo green service book, it will be more specific and I believe show some extremely helpful pictures as well -

THROTTLE VALVE
1.Loosen lock nut on stop screw for throttle valve switch and turn out a couple of turns, so it does not touch stop on throttle valve spindle. Check to ensure switch is fully closed.
2.Screw in stop screw until it touches stop on switch spindle. Turn screw in ¼ - 1 turn and tighten lock nut. Check that throttle valve switch does not jam or seize in closed position.

THROTTLE VALVE SWITCH


Remove air cleaner and place a .016" (.41 mm) feeler gauge between boss and stop screw. Connect voltmeter to terminal No. 17 on throttle valve switch and ground. Loosen switch retaining screws enough to move switch. Turn switch counterclockwise to its stop. Voltmeter reading should be zero volt. Now turn throttle switch clockwise and tighten retaining screws exactly at point a reading is noted on voltmeter.

IDLE ADJUSTMENT
1.With engine at normal operating temperature, attach tachometer and CO meter to engine. Ensure auxiliary air regulator is closed by pulling off hose between intake duct and the regulator and covering the opening. Engine RPM should not change. If RPM changes significantly, engine is either not warm or air regulator is faulty. See IDLE ADJUSTMENT SPECIFICATIONS table in this article.
2.Adjust idle RPM with idle adjustment screw. Reconnect hose from air cleaner. Adjust CO using the adjustment screw on the ECU. Turning the adjusting clockwise increases CO content.
 

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Just came across this, which I think you should consider - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-164-E...:Volvo&hash=item4d3c064e47:g:Ga8AAOSwwE5WWc1U. The asking price is very reasonable and I think I've read various things about the 123distributor giving people problems when trying to use it on a B30. Even if you only used this setup while your working on getting your car running correctly, then going back to the 123dizzy, it would eliminate one more variable that could be causing your current problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Idle Issue

Found some info that may be helpful. This is 'generic' d-jet info, not 164E specific. If you have the Volvo green service book, it will be more specific and I believe show some extremely helpful pictures as well -

Adjust CO using the adjustment screw on the ECU. Turning the adjusting clockwise increases CO content.
How do you know to adjust the CO on the ECU? Do I need a CO sensor shoved into the tailpipe to get a reading? Or, do I gauge by how the car idles?

Steve
 

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Service manual says sensor in the tail pipe. I never fiddled with that knob when I was still running Djet so I cannot offer up any other comment.
 

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Yes you need a CO sensor in the tailpipe. the adjustment only affects the mixture at idle.
I bought a Gunson CO meter from uk online for about $100 delivered, but I see now they have gone way up in price.
 
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