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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The car: 1998 na S70, 91,600 miles. <p>The problem: 300 miles/three weeks ago, I had the heater core, AC evaporator and drier replaced, along with all related lines/tubes. I went down to the car today to find a nearly empty coolant reservoir, wet driver's side footwell, and liquid under the car, lots of it (but I am not sure if it is from the massive amount of rain we have had, seeping up through the garage concrete. It doesn't taste all that sweet and is not green.)<p>So, my dealership says it could be a defective heater core or loose line. If the liquid under the car is just rain water, does that mean the empty coolant reservoir ended up in the engine due to a gasket leak? If so, would there be any immediate way of telling? I checked the oil, and it did not seem to have alien fluid in it. <p>However it does seem to be dino juice, even though I asked for and was charged for Mobil 1 synthetic. Is Mobil 1 brown in color and scented like traditional oil? <p>Problem 2: I noticed that the silver part of the air intake tube is completely broken. It is severed where it meets the plastic portion that starts at the radiator. Can the car be driven with the tube in that condition? <p><br>Film school?! I should have just become a Volvo mechanic <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/rolleyes.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: I need your input (Cabot)

Ignore the liquid under the car for now, the wet drivers side footwel is of the immediate concern. The footwell can absorb a great deal of coolant, so it is not a stretch to believe that the entire contents of the resevoir are now in your footwell <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/frown.gif" BORDER="0"> Did you get en OEM or aftermarket heater core? Defective parts can and do happen- it a=could also just have been a line that did not click all the way in when installed. Did you install it or a shop? If a shop, go back to them and have them eat all the cleanup costs. If you installed it, chalk it up to a lesson learned- we all have our stories to tell. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: I need your input (Cabot)

No, the coolant did not go into the motor, it is in your floorpan. If you have a head gasket leak, that is a whole other problem. <p>I think it would be very difficult to tell by looking at the dipstick of a 12 year old car if you have dino oil or synthetic. I don't think it smells any different either.<p>I don't know what you mean by an "air intake tube". A picture would be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for your replies.<br>heavyiron: I would assume it is an OEM heater core. I had the work done at Boston Volvo. They said they would shampoo the carpet, but at this point I might just replace it. It has now absorbed two coolant dumps. Sadly, the stories I have to tell about this car are all about dealer errors. <p>Wayne T5: I will post a picture tomorrow, but if you open your hood all the way (flip up the lid stops), the silver tube connects to the back of the engine between it and the firewall. I'm glad to hear its not the head gasket. That is one nightmare I could do without. <p>About the dipstick. I cleaned it thoroughly, and each time I wipe off "oil", it smells and looks just like dino oil. I read in the XC90 forum, that their Mobil 1 synthetic was yellow. That coupled with the reminder sticker that still has a 3k mile change interval (verus the 5-10k with synthetic) has me thinking I was cheated or someone made an innocent error.
 

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heater core <p>20 min to replace <p>$135 from FCP groton . <p>problem solved <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (Chilled Man)

Sounds like it should be covered by BVV's/VCNA's 12mo/12k mi warranty.<p>I agree with Justin. Heater core (either it wasnt replaced, or you got a bad one, or it wasnt properly installed).<p>As for the oil change, there's a color difference between M1 and most dinos. Next time, change your oil yourself.<p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Chilled Man- if only we all had your mechanical expertise. I installed the antenna down switch last fall on my own- that's the height of my mechanical ability. I felt pretty good about it, though!<p>njb8199: I would love to be able to change my own oil. How easy is it to do without a lift?
 

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Re: (Cabot)

use ramps. no big deal.<p>I think there's a pictorial write up here on SS or on VS.
 

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These kinds of car repairs aren't bad as long as you are organized and have some decent basic tools.<p>Oil change is very easy.<br>You need: Oil ~6 quarts (it'll take a little less)<br>Oil Filter: Mann or Genuine Volvo<br>Oil filter crush washer and filler cap gasket if it hasn't been replaced in a while.<br>-17mm socket or wrench<p>Put the car up on ramps. Pull up the emergency brake and chock the rear wheels with some kind of wood chock or block.<br>Undo the drain plug and have an oil basin or bucket ready to catch the oil. Replace crush washer on the plug and screw it back on tight enough to "crush" the washer so it seals.<p>Unscrew the filter. I can usually do this by hand. Replace with a new one and hand tighten.<br>Fill up the engine with oil. Check the level on a level surface and add oil as necessary.<p>Oh and change the oil when the car is warmed up. <p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: (Big Will)

Thanks for the write up, Big Will. The only question I have is: how will I know when it has been filled up enough? I've only taken the oil cap on the engine off once. Are there level marking inside?
 

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Cabot: When you fill it, put in 5 quarts or just a bit more and then close it up, take it off the ramps, run it for 30 seconds and check it with the dipstick. You'll probably have to add 1/2 to 4/5 of a quart based on what you see. I believe it's about 1 quart/liter between the two solid markings on the dipstick. <p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you for the information. Any recommendations on brand/distributor for the ramps? Also, the dealer was able to determine that the cause of the leak was pinched and leaking coolant lines running through the firewall. They are replacing them under the warranty njb mentioned and cleaning the carpets again. They gave me a C30 T5 loaner, which I quite like despite its lack of an upscale interior. However, when I went back to my car before it went on the lift to take my V1, tools, parts, and cables were all over my unshielded leather seats. We'll see tomorrow if I'll have grease stained seats. Let's hope not.
 

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Shame on them for being careless with their tools. I have some sympathy but when I work on my own car or other peoples' cars I never leave my tools on their seats.<p>Anyway, glad things are working out. Rhino ramps are a trusted brand and you can usually find them for $35-50 for a set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: (Big Will)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Big Will</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Shame on them for being careless with their tools.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Well, I picked the car up today and did not see any stains on the seats. Besides filling the coolant tank up far beyond the MAX line (which I will fix after the engine cools) everything seems to be fine. The dealership gave me an OEM warning triangle I had ordered last week for free, which was a nice gesture after this drawn-out repair job. <p>There is an auto parts store a town over. I'll see if they have Rhino ramps. I have to admit I'm excite to change my own oil. Are these ramps able to handle an XC90?
 

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They filled your coolant reservoir up all the way for a very good reason NOT a mistake.<br>When you drain the coolant out from the radiator, the system gets air in it inevitably and if they were to fill it only to the min or even max line, the system will "burp" and you will be very low on coolant. They fill it to the top of the expansion tank in an effort to get the level closer to correct when the system burps. You will likely find that after you drive a couple of times you will need to add a little coolant anyway (or at least some battery water).<p>The ramps should be able to handle a large pickup truck. My rhino ramps are rated to 8,000 lbs.<br>Good luck with the oil change and congratulations on your first steps into shade tree mechanics ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: (Big Will)

Leave it to me to mess something up. I already removed some of the coolant to bring it closer, but not exactly, to the MAX line. I have a bottle of Volvo coolant in the garage. It sounds like I should bring it back to their level before I start the engine. Your explanation makes sense. I had not thought of that when I removed the "excess." After the first botched repair, I figured this was just another mistake. <p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Big Will</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good luck with the oil change and congratulations on your first steps into shade tree mechanics ;-)</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Haha, shade tree mechanic. That is something I have not heard for a long time. Five years ago I would have had no desire to change my own oil. But now after some questionable oil changes, I certainly will (at least in the summer). I used to go to full service gas stations until I noticed scratches and split fuel on the tank door. I guess all it takes is a bad experience.
 

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Re: (Cabot)

Don't panic too much about the coolant refill. <br>Just keep an eye on it and top it off as needed until it stabilizes.<br>It just a reservoir/expansion tank. As long as the you see fluid above MIN, no sweat.
 
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