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I have a AW71 that I need to rebuild and a Volvo factory green manual from 1986 that tells me how, but I just cant figure out the code on the side well enought to find a rebuild kit. Can some one help? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0"> <br>The numbers read 3-71 1208 378. I know that 3-71 is aisin warner aw71 the 1208 378 looks like Volvo part number judging from th myriad of part numbers listed in the green manual, but none match mine. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0"> <br> THen stamped into the metal plate under serial number it reads, 83MF 8602. If I am understanding the manual, 83=year of manufacture, m=month of manufacture=december or 12 since the letter 'I' wasnt used, and F=AW71. The rest of the number is explained in a extremely vauge way in terms that make no sense to me at all. The text uses the numbers 0012 inplace of my 8602, the book reads,"0012 = manufacture number, start = 0001 each month." Can anybody help me understand what this is saying? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0"> <br>In the green manual, there are several different valve bodies that were intoduced over time to remedy problems and make improvements. I need to get the right parts. It is difficult and somewhat expensive to rebuild a transmission. Not to mention that i need to get this job done pronto. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <br> Also, can anyone tell me where to buy good rebuild kits that arent too expensive? That info would also be extremely helpfull. I have had a bit of a tough search, esp. with the part number issue.<br> Also, I will be rebuilding this trans myself. I am not taking it in to be repaired, even if the repair shop could/would do more to it than I will to it. I am learning to rebuild automatic transmissions and I have put alot of effort into understanding how they function. I want this experience. I think if I could only be sure of the id plate information and I could find a good kit, I would have smooth shifting for sever hundred thousand miles to come. This is my first post here on Sweed Speed. Thanks for any and all responces. I am gratefull for your time and energy spent with me/ on me and my problem. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> Mr. Kennio
 

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Re: I need help understanding the part numbers and serial on my aw 71 (mrkennio)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>mrkennio</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The numbers read 3-71 1208 378. I know that 3-71 is aisin warner aw71 the 1208 378 looks like Volvo part number </TD></TR></TABLE><p>Absolutely correct. Don't rely on the part numbers in the factory service manuals. The part numbers changed more frequently than the updates to the manuals.<p>I wish I could help you cross ref the PNs, but my parts listings only go back to 1993 -- after Volvo had revamped its earlier part numbering system. Go to the dealer to cross-reference your transmission's PN with the updated one. If VADIS doesn't contain this info, ask the dealer to check his old parts fiche (if they kept their fiche and reader!).<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>mrkennio</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> THen stamped into the metal plate under serial number it reads, 83MF 8602. If I am understanding the manual, 83=year of manufacture, m=month of manufacture=december or 12 since the letter 'I' wasnt used, and F=AW71. The rest of the number is explained in a extremely vauge way in terms that make no sense to me at all. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>Your understanding of the year and month of manufacture is correct. The numbers indicate that your transmission was the 8,602 unit to roll off the assembly line in December 1983.<p>This date and unit serial number is what one would expect to see for an early 1984 chassis. To narrow down the chance that the transmission is an original unit, check the VIN's particulars at: <A HREF="http://www3.telus.net/Volvo_Books/specs1.html" TARGET="_blank">http://www3.telus.net/Volvo_Books/specs1.html</A><p>Chances are that your car will have a fairly low chassis number for its model/year ("E").<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>mrkennio</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Also, I will be rebuilding this trans myself. I am not taking it in to be repaired, even if the repair shop could/would do more to it than I will to it. I am learning to rebuild automatic transmissions and I have put alot of effort into understanding how they function. I want this experience. </TD></TR></TABLE><p> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>Hope this helps,<p>Paul
 

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I am currently in the process of removing my aw70 as well. I am happy to see this post as I have been searching for more info on my r&r project as well. I urchased my kit from <A HREF="http://www.rockauto.com" TARGET="_blank">http://www.rockauto.com</A> It seems to be very comprehensive. Goodluck with your rebuild.<p>Anderson
 

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Re: I need help understanding the part numbers and serial on my aw 71 (RearWheelPaul)

Paul, Thanks for the information. I have seen some kits that claim to fit "the AW71", as though it isn't so critical that I worry about these ID tag issues. I could see where the clutches, steels, gaskets and seals could possible all be interchangeable, but that totally leaves the valve body out of the question. I plan on cleaning inside the trans. housing and replacing the clutches and clutch plates, but i also have to clean the valve body parts too. My intent was to remove the valve body, clean all of the valves and fluid circuits, and hope to not find any need for replacement parts inside. I read the valve body service article in the brickboard FAQ and felt like its main message was to replace the check balls while in the valve body, as these were the things that wear and cause changes in shift points. <br>Would it be reasonable to assume that I could remove and clean the contents of the valve body, making sure that all pistons are clean,move freely, have no damage and that there is no varnish buildup. Then replace the check balls with new ones and reinstall the valve body as I found it using the same separator plate with new gaskets, and achieve the successful valve body service I am after. I am new at this, but besides cleaning the valves, replacing the check-balls and gaskets, all else I could do is measure and replace springs. Right? If so, then I wouldn't need a specific kit as much as I would need a set of check-balls and some gaskets. In which case, the ID tag numbers wouldn't be a big deal. <br>If all of this were true, the a "Clutch and Seal" kit and some chk. balls and gaskets would be the extent of the replaceable parts, allowing me to avoid buying parts that are unique to my model number. What do you think? <br>I don't have a VIN to reference this transmission to, as it was a gift from someone who was cleaning house and wanted to get rid of it. I think it came for a 83-84 Turbo Wagon, but that is all I know. I am hoping that the unit is basically functional, and with fresh seals,clutches,gaskets and steels,+check-balls and a good cleaning, it will work great. Then if there is a problem in the valve body, I would hope that there is a part number on the valve body, as it is a replaceable unit, I think. Then I could use that part number to reference the parts I need to fix it. <br>Do you think there is anything to this line of reasoning, or am I way off <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"> from understanding the logical progression of events that will unfold when I take this thing apart? Thanks for all of you time and help, Ken
 

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Re: I need help understanding the part numbers and serial on my aw 71 (mrkennio)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>mrkennio</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have seen some kits that claim to fit "the AW71", as though it isn't so critical that I worry about these ID tag issues. I could see where the clutches, steels, gaskets and seals could possible all be interchangeable, </TD></TR></TABLE><p>If it were me, I would obtain ALL of the parts for the rebuild through Volvo or an authorized Aisin Warner factory parts supplier.<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>mrkennio</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I read the valve body service article in the brickboard FAQ and felt like its main message was to replace the check balls while in the valve body, as these were the things that wear and cause changes in shift points. <br>Would it be reasonable to assume that I could remove and clean the contents of the valve body, making sure that all pistons are clean,move freely, have no damage and that there is no varnish buildup. Then replace the check balls with new ones and reinstall the valve body as I found it using the same separator plate with new gaskets, and achieve the successful valve body service I am after. I am new at this, but besides cleaning the valves, replacing the check-balls and gaskets, all else I could do is measure and replace springs. Right? </TD></TR></TABLE><p>I'm not sure if this is the case. The chrome plated steel balls ride in an aluminum valve body. While some scuffing of the balls and fatigued springs can be expected, I wouldn't be surprised if there was some friction wear in the valve body. Given that the Volvo manual goes out of the way to discuss replacement of the valve body (and provides part numbers), I'd say that one could expect wear in this area.<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>mrkennio</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I don't have a VIN to reference this transmission to, as it was a gift from someone who was cleaning house and wanted to get rid of it. I am hoping that the unit is basically functional, and with fresh seals,clutches,gaskets and steels,+check-balls and a good cleaning, it will work great. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>Maybe, maybe not. Without understanding the problem that prompted its removal in the first place, you may wish to strip down the unit and confirm that there are no major problems. Once you've inspected the unit, you'll be in a position to determine what needs fixing. <p>Troubleshooting is going to be quite difficult with the transmission separated from the engine. How do you plan to check the governor (pump)? Once you've completed the rebuild, how are you planning to confirm that your rebuild is successful?<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>mrkennio</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Do you think there is anything to this line of reasoning, or am I way off <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"> from understanding the logical progression of events that will unfold when I take this thing apart? </TD></TR></TABLE><p>You might be a bit optimistic concerning how this project could unfold. That said, I admire your spirit. As long as you conduct a careful inspection of the disassembled transmission *before comitting funds *, the only thing that you stand to lose is time.<p>I trust that you have access to pneumatic tools, a fairly large parts washer, precision torque wrenches, an assortment of gear pullers, and the normal array of hand tools...<p>Paul
 

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Re: I need help understanding the part numbers and serial on my aw 71 (mrkennio)

Paul, What you are saying makes perfect sense to me. When the transmission was given to me the previous owner pointed to the tailshaft housing and said, "I took the transmission out of the car so I could get the overdrive out of it.". I took what he said to mean that he thought that inside that tailshaft housing was the overdrive like a M46 might have. I will have to take it apart to see what is in there before I spend any money on it. <br>As far as testing it goes. My transmission instructor showed me how to test the clutch apply pistons and clutch function with compressed air. Otherwise, I am going to have to drop the AW70 out of my 84 GL daily driver and bolt the AW71 up in there. Installation and removal doesn't worry me that much. In lab last week three of us disassembled a big Allison transmission with several clutch packs and 3 planetary gear sets. It took us a couple of days to put it back together, but there was a organizational problem with the removed parts, lending a puzzle like quality to reassembly. I can make the accumulator retainer plate for valve body dis-assembly. I have access to a small clutch return spring compressor and a pump alignment tool. I haven't figured out the guide dowels, but only because I haven't looked closely at their physical connection to the transmission during use. I am hoping they attach with threads, so I can make some. My instructor pointed out the damage that a steel ball in a aluminum valve body could do. <br>Paul, I wish I could get all the best parts and truly do this " the Right way", but I am a 33 year old tech school student working towards a Associate in Automotive Technology. I am super broke and was planning to buy the rebuild kit with some of my financial aid money. I just took automatic transmissions 1 and I am eager to try out my new-found knowledge. I cant say for sure, but I think I might wind up specializing in automatic trans. after graduation. It is the only thing I have found to be truly challenging in this course yet. <br>You are absolutely correct in suggesting the best course of action is dis-assembly and inspection before I spend any money. I know you are right, but I am disappointed to realize it though. There is a right way, with the best or most appropriate parts to complete the job. Anything less that that will be less than a great job on my part, and of course, I want to succeed. I don't know if its irony or coincidence, but I probably wouldn't have gotten the message as clearly as I have, if it hadn't come from you. Of course, you wouldn't intentionally suggest a less than accurate plan for a repair, especially for a job of this size. Thank you. <br>Now that I have given you a bit of insight into my situation regarding my motivations for the repair, as well as the repair funding potential, and testing methods at my disposal, what do you think I should do? Seriously, I have been known to be unrealistic as well as idealistic in my expectations of situations and of myself. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"> <br>This would be my first real rebuild. I intended to use the torque converter from my aw70 so as not to change my stall speed. I found a place that will sell me a master rebuild kit, a sealing ring kit, a bushing kit, a Aisin Warner rebuild manual and a bushing chisel plus some assemble lube for about $250. I have also found the 5.5mm check balls, genuine Volvo for under $10 for 5. I have also found sprags(not sure if its the clutch or just the sprags) for $30 if needed. <br>I am in a situation were I have to supplement my education with my own personal projects, simply due to the level of education I am paying for. I will owe for years to get to go to this school(just a local tech school) and I wonder almost daily if I am making a mistake by following this educational plan. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"> I have been consistently the highest grade in every class I have taken and only automatic transmission class has challenged me so far. I am the current record holder for my school's 'mechanical assessment test'. I am almost twice as old as the other kids and I am as old as some of the instructors. I am going to school to try to have a nice life, and so far I am only creating a nice life of debt. I am only telling you this so you might see where I am at with all of this. Being in contact with Paul Grimshaw is amazing to me in itself. To have your technical help is even more amazing to me. Perhaps it is inappropriate of me, and if so I do apologize, but I guess I am asking you to try to see the circumstances of my situation in hopes that you would try to imagine what it might be like if these were your situations. Then, imagining yourself in this project/repair/learning situation, share with me your thoughts of what you see your self doing, o perhaps what you did if you can relate to this situation. <br>I know there is a proper way and there is a shoddy way of making this repair, but I am hoping there is a way that is almost as good as the right way, where I can have a successful experience in this endeavor, so I can drive around in my Volvo on a transmission I personally rebuilt. I want to find a way to create these experiences for myself, otherwise my life is just passing by and all the while I am getting nowhere fast. I sure will feel stupid and embarrassed if I end up putting a transmission that I worked on, in my car and it tears up in the first mile! What would you do? If I am asking for advice that begs a response to personal for you to comfortably give, please don't respond. I guess I have just sat here and type you and everyone else this long message out of disappointment and frustration. It seems like I almost never read some guys post where he doesn't have the funds to do it right(might complain about the cost of genuine parts). I am left discouraged, almost as though I am just not wealthy enough to love Volvo's, even though they are the only car I really have any intrest in. I am trying to make this repair to teach myself what the school I borrow money to pay for cant/wont each me. Sorry, I struggle with trying to balance idealistic optimism with realistic thoughts. I am a bit crestfallen to realize that I , yet again, don't have the resources I need to do/get/be good at this right now, while the knowledge is fresh in my mind. Thanks for your help and time. Ken
 

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Re: I need help understanding the part numbers and serial on my aw 71 (mrkennio)

Your reply made me reflect on my own path through life -- I can't recall getting any real "breaks" other than good health and an understanding wife. <p>Past obstacles appear so much easier than those that lie ahead. Mistakes will happen, but the only really important mistakes are those involving life and death. The rest can be overcome in time.<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>mrkennio</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wish I could get all the best parts and truly do this " the Right way", but I am a 33 year old tech school student working towards a Associate in Automotive Technology. I am super broke and was planning to buy the rebuild kit with some of my financial aid money. I just took automatic transmissions 1 and I am eager to try out my new-found knowledge. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>I know what it's like to work up the ladder. It sounds like you're on the path to achieving great things in life. <p>Unless your objective is to repair the transmission for resale, you may wish to approach your school to see if they're interested in helping fund your project. Perhaps it would make an interesting "hands on" project. <p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>mrkennio</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You are absolutely correct in suggesting the best course of action is dis-assembly and inspection before I spend any money.... I don't know if its irony or coincidence, but I probably wouldn't have gotten the message as clearly as I have, if it hadn't come from you. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>I'm sure others would have provided similar advice. It's easy to remain objective concerning somebody else's project. I suppose that's the benefit of participating in a forum.<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>mrkennio</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Now that I have given you a bit of insight into my situation regarding my motivations for the repair, as well as the repair funding potential, and testing methods at my disposal, what do you think I should do? ... I intended to use the torque converter from my aw70 so as not to change my stall speed. I found a place that will sell me a master rebuild kit, a sealing ring kit, a bushing kit, a Aisin Warner rebuild manual and a bushing chisel plus some assemble lube for about $250. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>The first thing that I would do is some comparative shopping. How much would it cost to get the same rebuild kit from Volvo? Are you confident that your supplier will be able to provide the correct parts? If not, will they accept returns? <p>My point is to do what you need to in order to confirm that you're getting reasonable value for your money.<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>mrkennio</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I am in a situation were I have to supplement my education with my own personal projects, simply due to the level of education I am paying for. I will owe for years to get to go to this school(just a local tech school) and I wonder almost daily if I am making a mistake by following this educational plan. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>All investments contain an element of risk. That said, you control most of the variables concerning an investment in yourself. <p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>mrkennio</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I know there is a proper way and there is a shoddy way of making this repair, but I am hoping there is a way that is almost as good as the right way, where I can have a successful experience in this endeavor, so I can drive around in my Volvo on a transmission I personally rebuilt. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>I've never been very good at finding the third (nearly right) option. I spend a lot of time agonizing over the details so I can figure out the potential points of failure. When I factor in the time and expense, I always seem to go for the full price solution. It can get expensive, but I've never seen the economic advantage in doing the same job twice.<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>mrkennio</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I sure will feel stupid and embarrassed if I end up putting a transmission that I worked on, in my car and it tears up in the first mile! </TD></TR></TABLE><p>If your objective is to learn, you can profit from failure. There is a slight possibility that your efforts will fail. If so, conduct failure analysis of the transmission. Use your school's equipment to determine whether the failure was yours (assembly and installation) or due to a material or design failure. If it's the latter, look into whether it's worthwhile writing up your results for a professional journal (most journals pay a few hundred bucks for a good tech article) or to support your studies.<p>Hope this helps,<p>Paul<p><BR><BR>
<i>Modified by RearWheelPaul at 8:47 PM 7-2-2006</i>
 

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Re: I need help understanding the part numbers and serial on my aw 71 (RearWheelPaul)

If you're in need of fiche data, Jim Fisher Volvo in Portland, Oregon (telephone is (503) 295-5571) has an impressive supply of both fiche and parts people who know how to read it!
 
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