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I GOT IT ! I GOT MY 1800 ! ! !<br>Oh man, you won't believe this... Sounds phony but I'm pretty sure it's true. I inspected it and bought it today.<br>A 1968 Volvo 1800 S with 55k original miles and it comes w/ factory air!<br>[email protected] thing has been sitting in a garage for 20 YEARS ! ! ! I'm the third or fourth owner.<br>First or second owner kept every single receipt from 1971 to 1989. You can walk the mileage with the receipt's age. I say possibly second owner b/c the receipts start in 1971. The last reciept is about 500 miles off the current odometer. He stored it for 10 years and sold it to a lady that immediately had some personal hardships so she left it in her garage for another 10 years. She was tired of looking at it, put it on craigslist and now it's mine.<br>A few rust bubbles (1 in front of each door and 1 near the passenger side bottom of the windshield). Gas tank is rusted, Rubber window gaskets and dash are totally shot but that's about it. Body is super clean and the chrome trim is in great shape.<p>Now the questions.<br>How do you de-mothball an engine after 20 years?<p>The lady's son said he thought it was actually a 1966 and not a 1968 is there a way to confirm?<p>A special thanks to George Dill. What a guy.<p>The journey begins!<br>Jason
 

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Having trouble posting an image of the car.<p>I click the insert image button and get this:
<p> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: I GOT IT ! I am finally cool like you guys and own an 1800 ! ! ! (Phattires68)

Welcome to Swedespeed, Jason.<p>Save the pictures here...<p><A HREF="http://www.flickr.com" TARGET="_blank">http://www.flickr.com</A>/<p>...for free then copy and paste the URL (http://-----------.jpg) for each pic into the same text block that you are typing into on Swedespeed.<p>I looked at the pic you emailed to me - this car is a winner!<p>Your initial dollar investment is a small sum compared to what you are about to sink into this baby - no problem!<p>First, please don't try to start the car.<p>Next, carefully raise the hood and compare the chassis number on the bulkhead to the title and associated paper work. Share the chassis number(s) (VIN) and we will research them on the www.<p>If the hood feels in a bind please don't force it open.<p>Once both feet are back on the ground try to decide which direction you wish to take with this car - show queen or daily-driver. This will aid in decision-making down the road.<p>IF YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that you will stay with this project through storms, marriages and bankruptsy then begin now to collect the parts needed to get on the road.<p>I can say up front that the dollars for a new fuel tank (available) will be well spent as the old tank may never be satisfactory regardless of effort.<p>Once you have the car located exactly where you will be working on it start initially by removing all the gas from the entire car from carbs to gas tank including fuel pump, lines, filters, etc. The condition of what oozes out will determine the next step. New parts are available so try to resist the urge to use old fuel lines, etc.<p>If not already, don't step on the brake pedal.<p>Hey, I ain't being bossy - just don't see any need for you to make my mistakes.<p>The brake system will need complete renewal as the water in the brake fluid will have rusted into a glob in all the usual places and that first push of the brake pedal will cram all this mess where it should not be crammed.<p>Enough outta me (for now).<p>If possible take some more pics so we can see what interior pieces are needed, etc.<p>Also, re-check with the last owner(s) to be sure that you got all the boxes of goodies from the multi-year accumulation.<p>George Dill<p><br>
 

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Re: I GOT IT ! I am finally cool like you guys and own an 1800 ! ! ! (Phattires68)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Phattires68</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The lady's son said he thought it was actually a 1966 and not a 1968 is there a way to confirm?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>'66 has the side trim that follows the swoop up the doors into the tailfin chrome.<p>'67 has straight side trim that continues on behind the doors, and the door handles fair into the tailfin chrome instead.<p>'68 has the straight trim and side marker lights.
 

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Re: I GOT IT ! I am finally cool like you guys and own an 1800 ! ! ! (Phattires68)

Thanks for all the help guys. Thanks for your wisdom! Tell it to me straight and I'll certainly listen. I can tell you anything you want to know about a first gen Camaro or Firebird but I'm out of my league with the Volvo.<p>My Swedish pride and joy is now safely in my garage. I'll add the pix's tomorrow. Me tired... <p>George is right if you fail to plan you plan to fail. To that, This ain't gonna be no trailer queen. She gonna be my daily driver. I could buy an appliance like a Kia or lightly used Civic for $9-12k and be miserable very stinkin mile I drive. Then, in 7 years do it all over again. Or I can sink the same $$$ into this baby and joyfully laugh at the poor schnooks on the road driving toasters. I'm 2 grand down and ready to fall into the money pit.<br> <br>For the drivetrain:<br>I need air filters and rebuild kits for the SU carbs, NGK plugs, wires, points, gas lines (good call George) gas tank and sender, brake lines, brake pads, drums and rotors. Also need cluch slave cylinder. Where me gettem parts? <br>I went to AutoZone and they laughed. The only thing they could sell me was a battery, oil and filter<p>For the body and Interior:<br>All the rubber gaskets for all the windows, headlights, taillights, all new weatherstripping, a dash pad, steering wheel horn button (clear plastic is all cracked up) and speedometer clear plastic cover mine's cracked up). <p>Any idea if you can get original keys? Mine work but are crumby looking.<p>I'm a long way off on getting the A/C going but what does it take to convert to R134?<p>I will do most of the labor but I certainly want someone to help me bust it off. I wouldn't know how to adjust the valves or do a proper tune-up. Need a good mechanic in Dallas or east of Dallas. I'm in Rockwall.<p>Did I mention you are all my new best friends? I'm the hyper-active little bro that can't sit still.... I'm soooo excited ! ! ! <p>Vin 183451024745 <br>Chassis number plate on top that has the Volvo symbol then: No 24743<br>funny the VIN and Chassis don't match but <A HREF="http://www.v1800reg.org" TARGET="_blank">http://www.v1800reg.org</A> says that's fairly common. No side marker lights so 1967 ???<p>Plate below:<br>Typ/Type 183451 M<br>Farg/Colour 95 (Light Blue)<br>Kladsel/Upolst 309-522 (Black w/ Med. Grey carpet)<p>I'm floored by how original this silly thing is. Still has the leather luggage straps, still has the jack w/ 2-piece lug wrench orig spare tire w/ cover...<br>Unfortunately the interior was redone in cloth but at least its tasteful. <p>Cheers,<br>Jason
 

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Sources

Forget Autozone. They don't deal with stuff made before they were born. And they employ a lot of whippersnapper rice-burner drivers.<p>Some of my favorite sources are IPD in Portland, Oregon; RPR in Albany, California; FCPGroton, Groton, Connecticut; VP Autoparts, Charleston, SC; Yankee Trading in Easton, PA and GCP in Sweden. These are all pretty much aimed at the general run of old Volvos. There are several, better known to other members, that specialize in 1800 stuff. Since I haven't had an 1800 I am not as familiar with them.<p>You might want to look into YahooGroup's 1800list and Brickboard/RWD/.
 

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Re: I GOT IT ! I am finally cool like you guys and own an 1800 ! ! ! (Phattires68)

The "M" in Typ/Type 183451 M identifies it as a '67. The body number usually won't match the VIN, which is stamped into the body just above the battery and isn't on a tag anywhere else.<p>George's recommendations for parts suppliers are all good. I'll add <A HREF="http://www.irollmotors.com" TARGET="_blank">http://www.irollmotors.com</A> -- lots of 1800 specialty parts as well as the usual maintenance items.
 

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Re: Sources (Walrus3)

You may wish to just look at what is out there online before you buy anything.<p><A HREF="http://www.irollmotors.com/volvo1800" TARGET="_blank">http://www.irollmotors.com/volvo1800</A>/<p>George Dill<p><A HREF="http://www.google.com/search?q=183451024745+volvo&num=100&hl=en&lr=&safe=active&as_qdr=all&filter=0" TARGET="_blank">http://www.google.com/search?q...ter=0</A><p>
 

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Re: I GOT IT ! I am finally cool like you guys and own an 1800 ! ! ! (Phattires68)

You've obviously got a huge amount of work to do, but you could be starting from a much worse place. That car can all be brought back.<p>The "sway bar" in the rear is really a Panhard rod, which locates the axle in the left-right axis. No, it should not be bent, of course.
 

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Re: I GOT IT ! I am finally cool like you guys and own an 1800 ! ! ! (Phil Singher)

Have a plan - visualize the final product in your head and/or on paper/pc.<p>Recognize that the car must be completely disassembled.<p>Be safe - no open gas cans, flames, etc.<p>Label EVERYTHING with long-life tags using permanent marker.<p>Keep component items in common containers.<p>Try to avoid wasting time and effort on a final-finish of any one item early in the restoration process.<p>Locate local trusted shops with skilled techs to have work done that you consider above your skill level. This will be cheaper in the long run.<p>Avoid shortcut bodywork. Replace all rusted structural panels that may pose a safety risk.<p>Try to avoid damaging the car during disassembly. Avoid forcing the removal of body trim and emblems.<p>Do not discard any items during the initial take-down as these may be needed for future reference and fitment.<p>If you remove the upper/lower dash be very careful with the wires and cables connecting the gauges. Label everything but do not use tape of any kind. Avoid bending/kinking rigid lines and cables.<p>Consider taking pictures and maybe even having a blog to share your hard work and experiences with other Volvo lovers. For sure post up here on Swedespeed.<p><A HREF="http://www.myvolvo1800.blogspot.com" TARGET="_blank">http://www.myvolvo1800.blogspot.com</A>/<p><A HREF="http://volvo1800.net/1800/restoration/Restoration.aspx?Page=RestorationMain" TARGET="_blank">http://volvo1800.net/1800/rest...nMain</A><p><A HREF="http://volvo1800pictures.com" TARGET="_blank">http://volvo1800pictures.com</A>/<p><A HREF="http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/information-1800.shtml" TARGET="_blank">http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/information-1800.shtml</A><p>Note: If you join the UK Club you will have access to their spectacular 1800 data base online.<p><A HREF="http://www.cabinnaise.com/vpage/1800s.htm" TARGET="_blank">http://www.cabinnaise.com/vpage/1800s.htm</A><p><A HREF="http://www.cabinnaise.com/vpage/mycar.htm" TARGET="_blank">http://www.cabinnaise.com/vpage/mycar.htm</A><p>See? You are not alone.<p>Let's roll!!!<p>George Dill<p>
 

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Re: I GOT IT ! I am finally cool like you guys and own an 1800 ! ! ! (Phattires68)

I guess I do not recognize that car needs to be completely dismantled. The interior is fine except for the dash. The body sound except for a few spots. The electrical “appears” to be fine as in no splices no cut or loose wires and nothing looks melted but the jury is still out on that one. I will replace all the fuses though.<br>Brakes & bearings, absolutely <br>Fuel system, absolutely<br>Suspension, absolutely<p>The Engine is my main concern. How do you de-mothball an engine? I don’t want to rebuild it if it doesn’t need it.<br>This is what I’m thinking, in this order:<br>1.) Replace the entire fuel system from fuel tank to fuel pump, and rebuild the SU Carb’s.<br>2.) Can you prime the oiling system by pulling the distributor and using an electric drill on the oil pump similar to a GM motor? If so… I’ll Change the oil and filter, turn over the engine and see if there is good cylinder pressure. If that’s good I’ll proceed to trying to start it. <br>3.) That would entail a full tune-up, rebuild the carbs, rod the radiator, new water pump/thermostat, belts, hoses and, of course, new fluids for all the components + trans & rear.<br>4.) Make sure the Dynamo is charging, rebuild if necessary<br>5.) If that’s good move to the brakes. uh… replace/rebuild everything.<br>6.) Slave cylinder for the clutch and see how the clutch feels and determine if it needs a rebuild.<br>7.) Replace tires, exhaust and misc. to get it inspected.<br>8.) Take it to a professional for valve adjustment and get his general impression if the car.<p>I’m pretty sure the engine seals are hard but that won’t cause any damage. Will it? How hard is it to replace the front & rear main cap seals? How hard is it to remove the oil pan? It looks mighty close to the front end cross-member. I’d like to take a look at the bottom end without lifting or actually yanking the motor.<p>I’ll drive it for very short distances and then get longer and further. As long as it maintains oil pressure, cylinder pressure and temp, I’m ok… or am I missing something.<p>Keep me straight fella’s.<br>p.s. Are new fuel tanks really $550+? Where’s the best deal? Used one on ebay but I don’t want to go that route.<br>
 

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Re: I GOT IT ! I am finally cool like you guys and own an 1800 ! ! ! (Phattires68)

"I guess I do not recognize that car needs to be completely dismantled."<p>Good call - the first step has been made.<p>The fuel tank situation may resolve itself once you inspect the existing tank and decide if it is restorable. eBay sucks.<p>The SU's may not need a full rebuild - just disassembly, inspection, clean-up and reassembly. The SU's hold no mysteries and you will probably enjoy the feeling of accomplishment when you bolt them up and start the car.<p>The engine is very easy to tune - valve adjustment and timing included. I'll find info online and others here may add sage advice. The timing gears must be healthy and correctly assembled before the engine will run properly.<p>One option on the dash is to clean up the cracked areas and glue on an aftermarket shell - much cheaper than two new dashii and no need to remove the dash bulkhead.<p>Yes, you can spin the distributor drive (and oil pump) with a hand drill and modified drill bit originaly intended for making holes in doors or buy the tool from ipd. Be sure of direction of rotation. The condition of the oil in the filter will aid in determining the engine's health. Removing the oil pan without removing the engine in the 1800 has been addressed as both myth and a possibility. I have done this many times on a 122 but never on an 1800.<p>Given the car's mileage the generator should be OK - just inspect the brushes under that flat metal strip. The heart of the system is the generator regulator. If it is faulty the battery will eventually give up. Take care not to send "unintended" current through the regulator.<p>Consider checking every ground connection on the car. Start by pulling on the wire to see if it is solid in the connector then loosen/retighten each connection (screw, bolt, etc.). This includes the major wires at/near the starter.<p>It is possible that the clutch surfaces have bonded to each other over time. This can be determined once the clutch cylinders are operational and the clutch fork is moving through its normal range.<p>I share your optimism concerning the possibilty that the engine will run without a major overhaul.<p>Please let us know which direction you plan to go on the gas tank. $600 is a lot of money!<p>George Dill<p><BR><BR>
<i>Modified by gdill2 at 1:46 PM 9-3-2008</i>
 

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One old flat blade screwdriver with the handle broken off = one dizzy drive tool. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: I GOT IT ! I am finally cool like you guys and own an 1800 ! ! ! (Phattires68)

I like the screw driver trick. Thanks. George, as usual, I am in you debt.<p>Who sells new Gas lines and Brake lines?.<p>Anyone know of a cheaper new gas tank than $550? Mine is unrepairable.
 

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Re: I GOT IT ! I am finally cool like you guys and own an 1800 ! ! ! (Phattires68)

Consider sourcing the majority of your needs from suppliers of known reliability and longivity. Yes, you may find some items elsewhere for cheaper but will not be sure of the quality and/or fitment.<p>It does help to shop online as this allows comparing part numbers and applications which helps resolve conflicts such as correct brake calipers for your specific year-model (confirmed?). U-joints are also year-dependent.<p>Click around on these just to browse around while I go google gas tanks...<p><A HREF="http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-P1800/c-1-84" TARGET="_blank">http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-P1800/c-1-84</A>/<p><A HREF="http://www.irollmotors.com/volvo1800/toc.htm" TARGET="_blank">http://www.irollmotors.com/volvo1800/toc.htm</A><p>George Dill
 

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Re: I GOT IT ! I am finally cool like you guys and own an 1800 ! ! ! (gdill2)

<A HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Volvo-Jensen-1800-P1800-ES-E-S-Fuel-Tank_W0QQitemZ140263059797QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item140263059797&_trkparms=39%3A1%7C65%3A1%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245#ebayphotohosting" TARGET="_blank">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...sting</A><p>Just looking at the tank my take would be to consider a generic poly tank (under $100) or an aluminum fuel cell (under $300). If the car will be subject to inspection you would need to have roll-over spill protection and vapor recovery systems.<p>I don't care for eBay but then I don't need a gas tank...<p>George Dill<p><br>
 

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Re: I GOT IT ! I am finally cool like you guys and own an 1800 ! ! ! (gdill2)

Here is an online parts catalog for reference...<p><A HREF="http://global.gcp.se" TARGET="_blank">http://global.gcp.se</A>/<p>Gas tank on sale now - $409.84 USD.<p><A HREF="http://global.gcp.se/global/news" TARGET="_blank">http://global.gcp.se/global/news</A>/<p>George Dill<p><BR><BR>
<i>Modified by gdill2 at 6:47 PM 9-2-2008</i>
 

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Re: I GOT IT ! I am finally cool like you guys and own an 1800 ! ! ! (gdill2)

<A HREF="http://www.cvi-automotive.se/catalogues/p1800/11-p1800_eng.gif" TARGET="_blank">http://www.cvi-automotive.se/c...g.gif</A><p>George Dill<p>
 

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Re: I GOT IT ! I am finally cool like you guys and own an 1800 ! ! ! (gdill2)

$550 is a lot of money but...<p><A HREF="http://www.cvi-automotive.se/webshop/viewpic.asp?name=include/article/683393.jpg" TARGET="_blank">http://www.cvi-automotive.se/w...3.jpg</A><p>George Dill<p>
 
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