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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

Back in October I bought myself a 2004 V70R with a bad clutch for 2k, and was very pleased with the deal I got. You could tell even on the surface it probably had some rust problems, but I figured worst case I could part it out if it was unsalvageable.

I've spent the last months getting her ready to drive again, which included shims, a valve job, timing belt components, angle gear and an exhaust

Turns out she's a a very crusty old girl.

Just as I'm about to get ready to take her out, I find a hole punched in the rear bump stop bracket. I pulled it off to take to the junkyard to find a new one and found the gaping frame hole you see in the pic.

I should also note there's a hole on the other side in the same spot, and the driver's floor pan. There's rust on the rear quarters over the wheel well, and the pinch welds/rocker panels are a little suspect, but I haven't pulled the trim off to look yet.

My buddy's dad is a talented panel beater, so I'm taking it over to him to assess (I believe he is firmly in the "save it" camp), but I was curious what people here think: save this body, or look for a clean shell somewhere to transplant my (now restored) powertrain into?


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This makes me sad, but at least you have a TME exhaust

I say take a really really good look and see how bad the rot is. and then make a decision if you want to stay or go. Body work is $$$. On the other hand everything is much more pricey these days so finding a clean shell for 1$K is probably not going to happen either. Maybe a XC70 or a regular V70 with a blown motor could serve as a donor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This makes me sad, but at least you have a TME exhaust

I say take a really really good look and see how bad the rot is. and then make a decision if you want to stay or go. Body work is $$$. On the other hand everything is much more pricey these days so finding a clean shell for 1$K is probably not going to happen either. Maybe a XC70 or a regular V70 with a blown motor could serve as a donor.
And it sounds goooooood.

The nice thing is that I have a bunch of sweat equity in my buddy's and his dad's cars/builds, so for body work I'm just paying for materials (and spending my hours sanding, cutting, grinding.....)

Do you know anything about what shell would work with a manual? Do I need an m66 R body or are the v70/xc70 bodies the same?

I would prefer not to have to fab a bunch of stuff if I do decide to swap bodies

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Hi all,

Back in October I bought myself a 2004 V70R with a bad clutch for 2k, and was very pleased with the deal I got. You could tell even on the surface it probably had some rust problems, but I figured worst case I could part it out if it was unsalvageable.

I've spent the last months getting her ready to drive again, which included shims, a valve job, timing belt components, angle gear and an exhaust

Turns out she's a a very crusty old girl.

Just as I'm about to get ready to take her out, I find a hole punched in the rear bump stop bracket. I pulled it off to take to the junkyard to find a new one and found the gaping frame hole you see in the pic.

I should also note there's a hole on the other side in the same spot, and the driver's floor pan. There's rust on the rear quarters over the wheel well, and the pinch welds/rocker panels are a little suspect, but I haven't pulled the trim off to look yet.

My buddy's dad is a talented panel beater, so I'm taking it over to him to assess (I believe he is firmly in the "save it" camp), but I was curious what people here think: save this body, or look for a clean shell somewhere to transplant my (now restored) powertrain into?


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All recent Volvos will rust away. Maybe not the bodyshell. My 2015 V60 Polestar, corrosion on crudely welded joints on subframes. Shocking really.
 

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All recent Volvos will rust away. Maybe not the bodyshell. My 2015 V60 Polestar, corrosion on crudely welded joints on subframes. Shocking really.
That's wild, my 2007 v and 2007 VR have no rust at any point that I've seen yet.

Also, all V70/XC70 bodies are the same ... Powertrain/options/cosmetics/suspension are different. No diff from auto/manual except the stuff bolted to it.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wow looks like the front frame, not the subframe
It's the rear frame rail. Rear subframe bolts up into it. The bump stop that bolts there is kinda silly, would hold water, dirt, salt.

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It's the rear frame rail. Rear subframe bolts up into it. The bump stop that bolts there is kinda silly, would hold water, dirt, salt.

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Hmm, another spot to look at on mine.

I lowered mine on KWs and drove through a handful of 4"+ snow storms with it. I've got some light rust on the rear lower quarter panels. Basically where the rocker trim covers. Probably just picked up salt/sand and hung on to it back there.


These cars DO rust. I think it just takes particular circumstances.

OP, is your car lowered?

Do you know anything about what shell would work with a manual? Do I need an m66 R body or are the v70/xc70 bodies the same?
Pretty sure they're all the same. People have done M66 swaps in to XC70s here in the states, and I'm pretty sure every Volvo could be had with a manual in Europe at this point. Maybe not the XC90s, but the S80s, S60s, V70s etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This will sound silly, but I don't know. It certainly doesn't look lowered based on wheel gap, but if not the stock rode height is pretty low.

My 4c is shot, so will be doing coil overs most likely. But due to the ride height being so low I will try to keep it as close as possible to stock


Re: rust

Was just being a little cheeky with the rust comment. I'm pretty sure you have to leave them sitting in bad conditions for them to get this bad, but you do see a little bit on some. Id be surprised by frame rot though

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
While I was working on power train I had a valve job done and refreshed the cylinder head.

I've got a pretty loud/rapid ticking under acceleration (only when on the accelerator) .

It usually starts briefly around 2.5 to 3k rpm and fades out in the upper rev ranges...

Any idea what it could be?

It definitely sounds like it's coming from the top end of the engine, but kinda hard to pin point

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While I was working on power train I had a valve job done and refreshed the cylinder head.

I've got a pretty loud/rapid ticking under acceleration (only when on the accelerator) .

It usually starts briefly around 2.5 to 3k rpm and fades out in the upper rev ranges...

Any idea what it could be?

It definitely sounds like it's coming from the top end of the engine, but kinda hard to pin point

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It could be your exhaust. I had that issue twice. Once when one of the manifold gaskets blew out which I replaced with the single piece and once when the flex pipe rotted. I replaced the downpipe with one from Re-Volv.

Also on the subjet of rust. Have the strut towers inspected when you do the suspension. If you have that much rust on other body panels, you can probably count on the towers having rust underneath the strut mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I don't think it's the exhaust, I have a new downpipe, exhaust, and exhaust gaskets (also re-volv)b since my old one had holes.

But I will check it for sure, maybe my buddy didn't give it enough ugga duggas

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